Even if progress is far away from plan, there is some:)

Made new brake lines and Booster/MC installed

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388436401.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388436439.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388436482.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388436502.jpg

No worries Roland.
Ah, I envy you the "clean sheets" opportunity it is with an empty and newly sprayed shell. Looks gorgeous, and I will follow your progress. I don't envy you that tiny garage thou. Be careful when you hang the doors ;-)

I will be driving through Switzerland this summer with my 930. Me and my son are doing the "Grand Tour" this summer on our way to Italy: Nurburgring, Porsche museum, Davos to Stelvio (Top Gear best drive), Maranello and maybe some other stops. Are you far away the path between Stuttgart and Davos?

Good luck on your project. I did my engine this year with many of the same parts you have, from TurboKraft and RarlyL8. This winter I'm doing the suspension with parts from RSR, as well as carbon 935 seats from Zimmerman (DP)....

Thanks Arnljot

I am near Zürich, so depending on your choosen route, I am on the way. Give me a PM maybe a few weeks before, so I can tell you if I am at home. Then we can meet upSmileWavy

The last days were full of issues. First I wanted to mount the rear trailing arms, but had some clearance problems. The torsion tube area is inforced with welded pieces. Therefore the aluminum brackets for the uniball did not fit anymore. So I had to remove some material there. Also the clearance between the inforcements and the "spring plates" was very little to nothing.

Further I wanted to cover the the firewall at the engine bay like before with a reflecting sheet material, kind of coated fibre cloth. Unfortunately, the one I bought was too stiff, could not be draped like the one I fitted the firts time. After an hour of trying and swearing, I pulled it off and throwed it away. Have to buy some new old one now...

To have at least some little success , I made the rear brake lines and mounted the shocks

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388704731.jpg

Problems again...
 

Today I re-assembled the rear hubs. Because it's easier to fit the CV joint gaskets before, I wanted to fit the outer ones, but I can't:mad:

One side is normally self-adhesive, but those I received from Pelican don't seem to be....

There is something like a protective sheet, but I cannot remove. If I try, I will destroy the gasket, they simply won't come off:(

Does anyone of you had the same problem here?

Part is 930-332-297-00-M260

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388750641.jpg

Last ones I bought from Pelican had the peel off covering.

:confused: I would swear mine had sticky on 1 side , just got done changing boots a few months back . Kozmo

Hi Roland, I just bought a set and they didn't have the sticky side as well.

I just used some 3m spray adhesive to give them a light coat before assembling.

That's what I will do as well...

Because I have a binding issue at the front with the RSR bushes, I decided to fit spherical shims like used at the front bushes. As there is no room in the crossmember I had to machine the blocks to fit the shims. Further I had to shave-off 1mm of the flat surface to avoid contact with the crossmember, as the aren't parallel when fitted (anti-dive)

For testing purposes I used DIN pieces, but I ordered some others. What I don't like at the DIN parts: The male shim has a ball surfaces, the female is conical. So the contact is only at one small line. I want some with contact surface over the whole ball area...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389648782.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389648809.jpg

OK Roland, I just finished 9pgs of reading - all because like Ronnie noted about 10000pages back your post's subject line was misleading and I don't have any rust issues sooooooo...

...d'oh!

LOOK @ the outright insanery I've been missing out on!!!

So, 330posts later... if I wasn't feeling bad enough about myself and my total lack of madskillz (as seemingly everyone ELSE here appears to have but me)... now I feel even more werserer!!!

8-)

Your build is truly bonkers over the top completely ludicrous - LOVE IT! What an outrageous attention to detail. And golly, you fab and coat everything yourself. Again, I have trouble putting gas in the car and here you are. I feel about 2' tall.

And the time you have - holycrap don't get married / have kids heh heh!!!

What, you're not drilling your new brake lines?

Oh.

8-)

Damn again good sir... this is truly beyond impressive. <---------UNDERSTATEMENT OF 2014!!!

Keep up the good work, can't wait for all the impending updates. Great time for me to tune in, you've rounded the reassembly corner! Heck, in the time you started this I sold and rebought my car. Crazy. Hope your arm is fully healed.


ps. I literally lol'd @ the rabbit picture (and the surrounding scat). And moreso over the chic next to the bike that appeared to have a tiny hermaphrodidic penner peekin thru her bikini? Crykie!

pps. lotsa American iron found in your body shop there - go figure?

ppps. I'm still quite literally flaberghastted by all of what you've done / are doing. Gotta run, time for me to go vacuum the house again.... arrrrrrrrgh... while you go and be further awesome... d'oh me!

pppps. I too thought you were some sorta mixed martial arts badarse or something with your screen name, even after spying your last name / flag on the car window.

ppppps. further ROFLMAO @ the key chain and your GF knowing why... argh now there's a thought I need erased from my head STAT!

pppppps. might you email / PM me the specs of them hats for the disk vents? Could use a set and my bud's got all the laser / water jet equip...

Well Paul, a lot of text to read and answer ;)

OK Roland, I just finished 9pgs of reading - all because like Ronnie noted about 10000pages back your post's subject line was misleading and I don't have any rust issues sooooooo...

Didn't you saw the rust...?



LOOK @ the outright insanery I've been missing out on!!!

Need therapy now? Me too



So, 330posts later... if I wasn't feeling bad enough about myself and my total lack of madskillz (as seemingly everyone ELSE here appears to have but me)... now I feel even more werserer!!!

Hmm... What can I say to this? Maybe you can drive your car while me can't



Your build is truly bonkers over the top completely ludicrous - LOVE IT! What an outrageous attention to detail. And golly, you fab and coat everything yourself. Again, I have trouble putting gas in the car and here you are. I feel about 2' tall.

2cm would be worse



And the time you have - holycrap don't get married / have kids heh heh!!!

Neither I do. But my girlfriend loves the car too (what is not that unimportant)



What, you're not drilling your new brake lines?

Any recommendations?



Damn again good sir... this is truly beyond impressive. <---------UNDERSTATEMENT OF 2014!!!

Year just started



Keep up the good work, can't wait for all the impending updates. Great time for me to tune in, you've rounded the reassembly corner! Heck, in the time you started this I sold and rebought my car. Crazy. Hope your arm is fully healed.

Yes, I am happy that it becomes now a car again, even If I have some little issues right since assembly began. Arm is fine, thanks:)



ps. I literally lol'd @ the rabbit picture (and the surrounding scat). And moreso over the chic next to the bike that appeared to have a tiny hermaphrodidic penner peekin thru her bikini? Crykie!

Yeah, the rabbit is producing tiny little pellets all the time, but dry and odorless luckily... No affiliation to the girl...



pps. lotsa American iron found in your body shop there - go figure?

Can't tell anything, but he is doing a lot of US cars too



ppps. I'm still quite literally flaberghastted by all of what you've done / are doing. Gotta run, time for me to go vacuum the house again.... arrrrrrrrgh... while you go and be further awesome... d'oh me!

Thanks, reminds me to vacuum too my castle (remember the rabbit...)



pppps. I too thought you were some sorta mixed martial arts badarse or something with your screen name, even after spying your last name / flag on the car window.

You are not the first, but nothing at all in this direction. I comes from my name and my passion for streetfighters bikes



ppppps. further ROFLMAO @ the key chain and your GF knowing why... argh now there's a thought I need erased from my head STAT!

Not my head:D



pppppps. might you email / PM me the specs of them hats for the disk vents? Could use a set and my bud's got all the laser / water jet equip...

PM me your email and you get the CAD etc...

This week I mounted front suspension. And so some new problems came across. The camber plates from elephant have some tight bearings, which leads to the issue, that the shock absorbers turn in the strut instead of the bearing itself. I am not willing to fit needle bearings between coil and cap, prefer the idea of the bearing will do this... Maybe they just should be "moved" a while until they won't bind anymore.

Furhter I had the idea of an aluminum shifter rod and lighter coupler. Here the work so far, Drilling and a little machining/anodizing of the coupler parts:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390656584.jpg

Front coupler. Not sure if I should change the SS bolt with an Aluminum one, because I did a shrink connection, which is quite strong. Bolt is only for safety, guess it would work without.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390656898.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390656923.jpg

After a couple of issues which some are still valid, I decided to mount the front hubs and brake calipers, not because it makes sense now, but to have success:D

Further I thought about the issue with the camber monoballs and checked them again. There is not much more force needed to make them turn, so maybe as soon the car stands on the wheels, there is enough pressure to the springs/hats that the monoballs will turn instead of the shocks... we will see

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390770006.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390770032.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390770068.jpg

Roland, let me first say I'm impressed with your dedication to "weight loss!" However, after looking at your credentials [home town], I finally realized why you are so obsessed with "all those holes" - - See below:




http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390770615.jpg


Somebody had to say it!! SmileWavy

Thanks for your complimentSmileWavy

... But what the F... is that you show?

Swiss cheese has to be like this:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390776974.jpg

or this:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390777410.jpg

If you like and want to know more about one of my favorites , check this (in English of course;) ):

Emmentaler: Range

That cheese is too heavy! Needs more holes... ;)

They are even heavier than they look!

Not eaten by pussies but real man (did I told you that I eat a lot of cheese?:D )

Progress at the shifter rod. Front part finished, rod bent. Looks not bad I think. Will do a weight comparison at the end.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390857667.jpg

Nice progress Roland! I have the same setup on the front coilovers. I noticed the monoball on top of the strut don't turn. I don't think there's enough friction in the strut tube to make the monoball turn. You mentioned about the shock possibly turning within the strut. I may be wrong but I think the rod of the shock turns within the shock's body so it's not an issue.

Let me guess...you saved about 1/2 pound (225 grams) with the alum shift rod assuming both tubes are solid. Again nice work!

Correct me if I am wrong, but the steering happens within the damper with the stock bushing, as the rubber does not twist easily and the damper shaft is fixed by the nut to the chassis. So your setup is fine as-is.

Thats correct, but stock cars do not have coil springs. Now the coils are turning with the strut, but on the top the hat is fixed together with the damper insert, so the spring slides better or less over the spring seat.

There are two possible ways:

Between spring and hat some needle bearings like this:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390981981.jpg

or the monoball in the camber mounts do the turning, which I prefer

I'm not sure I would want the monoball to do all the turning. Front load and rotation on that small ball would wear out and get loose in no time.

I went with the needle bearing setup on the top hat, to protect it a little, and lubed it with the dry, waxy based bicycle chain lube.

I had a smaller monoball for the last 10 years /10'000km (no track) and had no issues. The new one is even bigger, so I don't expect any problems.

Further the monoball is moving anyway when suspension is acting, so the more different positions, the better in my eyes (less peaks on point)

More success at this time on my shifter rod, bush, clamp whatever thing. Weights can vary about a few gramms for the alu rod (bolt is not machined yet) and maybe 100gramm for the stock one (has a bush/bolt in the middle to separate), but still a lot of saving in my eyes. More weight saved on the coupler, but it's not finished yet.

Made the clamp out of a massive block and much patience :-). Now everything except the bolt for the clamp is made out of High strength aluminum (7075)... Ok, tube alloy is unkown;)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1391032898.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1391032921.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1391032947.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1391032981.jpg

That eases my mind on the life of my monoball :D

Looked a little flimsy to me.

Sorry, don't understand that statement (my poor english)

I do remember in my days as motorcycle mechanic over 15 years, that needles in the suspension don't last very long, but did a nice job until then (superfine response)

However, monoballs are made to take a lot of loads with poor movement while needle bearings are not (just check ER page about needles on front arm bushes).

If I get the monoballs turning I am happy. If not, I will think about alternatives.

Your English is fine, my US slang is terrible :o

In other words, a monoball takes all the load and rotation on a smaller surface area leading to possibly faster wear. Where as the bearing spreads the load out to a larger area.

Unsealed needle bearings always have problems, and if the sealed versions leak, they don't last long either.

My biggest concern with the bearing is all the dirt and junk that will get into it, so it still might be a maintenance problem. One of the reasons I used a dry waxy lube. Sprays out wet, but turns to a wax coating so it doesn't attract dirt.

I bought spares just in case.

Roland,
Did you miss my post #340 on page 17? Looks like you saved over a pound...amazing!

WinRice,
I never thought about using waxed bicycle lube. Instead I used Bel-Ray waterproof grease on the needle bearings. It's been a few years since did this. It's going to be interesting to check out the condition of the bearings sometime in the future the next time I remove the front struts.

The one nice thing with coilovers, you could unbolt the swaybar link, relax the spring seat rings, pull one top bolt and swing the strut out to check or replace the bearing. Should be fairly easy if I have to maintain it.

Sorry Mike... shame on me:( yes, probably a pound saved, incl. coupler when finished for sure:)

I knew there is some advantage with coilovers;)

The needle bearing also makes ride height adjustments easier and will allow the spring to twist a bit like it wants to do. I would prefer the thrust bearing for its smoother action, then figure out how to seal it.

I thought all of Clint's coil-over kits came with needle bearings. I know I assembled kits that had those thrust bearings and went underneath the mono ball.

Like this: http://rebelracingproducts.com/image...no-springs.jpg

The thrust bearing is I the top spring perch. That seems pretty protected.

If this is the bearing, then it makes no sense to me here:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1391070866.jpg

The hat is turning around the damper axxis then, because damper is not turning (as monoball does not turn). So there would be binding and play in the center drilling. Hat should not move on the damper. Further there must be another bearing under the hat.

The only thing making sense is a bearing between hat and coil like this:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1391071650.jpg

The top stainless steel flanged piece is clamped tight between the top of the strut and the inner race (ball) of the spherical bearing. The spring stays still relative to the lower spring perch due to the compressive load. This means that the bottom half of the strut turns on its linear bearing and the spring goes with it. The weight of the corner is on both the needle bearing and the spherical bearing but the needle thrust bearing allows smooth steering while the spherical bearing accommodates suspension articulation.

At least that is my understanding.

Both of those assemblies shown are equivalent. One has a large piece between the spherical bearing and needle bearing and a small piece between the thrust bearing and spring, and the rebel setup is the opposite.

I think the same, except the spherical bearing (monoball) allows smooth steering as well, when it's not too tight. It's a question of bearing play, some are tight (or even some preload) and others run free but still without noticable play. Such a bearing I had for the last 10 years without any issue and that's what I like to have again. And steering was smooth then too.

Conclusion:

Make the existing monoball run smooth or replace by a better one (meaning less pre-loaded)

However thanks for your inputs anyway fellowsSmileWavy

Clint mostly gets the ones with a Teflon liner and they always drag. Otherwise there would be slop and they would be already worn out. That is the price of eliminating the need to service them. You can usually get several specifications of fit and Clint goes for the tight one because they last long and break-in pretty quickly with the loads seen in the suspension.

D-ZUG shifter a bit disappointing...
 

I got my shifter yesterday and was wondering how it is made... To be honest, I expected a little nicer built quality for 650USD than this, even more if I compare to my former Hargett shifter:(

Here are the "issues" in detail:

Top area is not squared angled precise, one side is about 3mm off at the rear corner:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392402996.jpg

Better visible without rod etc...:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392403052.jpg

Some cut-outs (left one) not parallel to edge:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392403143.jpg

Drillings look like made by shooting and all the same size, no matter if fot M8 or M6. Further the ones for M8 are tappered so the Bolt cannot moved through:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392403334.jpg

Poor Machining all around, bolts are sharped and have no finish

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392403430.jpg

Rod has dents (not visible if assembled), Thread is sharp and has flake:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392403553.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392403578.jpg

Slot too small, so bolt only contacts in the corners and gap left in the middle:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392403646.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392403668.jpg

So I will work on the shifter a bit, make some improvements in play by better bearing concept. Furter it's quite heavy. Solid, but too much in my eyes.

Of course all this does should not affect shifting performance, at least not as long there is any wear. But I suggest there will be a lot of worn out areas to soon due the poor bearing effort.

Just my opinion...

Time for more Swiss precision :-)