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What lathe did you end up buying? |
Me too
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Did you know...
... I am still here:D
Time is running and progress is very little (not only because of Corona). Have some issues with Cork damping mats, glue came off, PITA when quality causes issues. However made some floor boards, will post pics later Until then, hope you guys are fine as wellSmileWavy |
All caught up on your posts! Ready for more updates :] Keep up the excellent work!
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Roland, great to see you here again. We miss your amazing posts! Be well, friend!
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Thanks guys. You deserve a little teaser then
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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1594327913.JPG
now with pic:) Made floorboards out of Balsa plywood 11mm and self-adhesive thin carpet (only 1.5mm), not easy to make as nothing is rectangular or straight. Also under the seat it's changing height, therefore i made 3 pieces. More details and pics next week. |
Very cool.
I don’t know how you could have a car under the knife for so long without driving it. I guess you know it’s safe and being built properly and time - does - fly. Looking forward to seeing more updates. Hello from Cleveland OH USA |
While still working inside on interieur etc. I also continued on the wiring harness. There I found a brittle grommet, in fact two of them. They are for the rear lights for the break-through of the cable at side wall (biggest hole there, about 27mm) but they are replacing the OEM connector there, but could be Porsche from somewhere else. Maybe one of you recognize it. I searched a bit on the net, but did not found exactly the same or at least equal useful. I like the fact it can be bent as it's needed there.
Here are the measurements: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1656505333.JPG http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1656505333.JPG http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1656505333.JPG http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1656505333.JPG |
very angry
I just wrote a huge text and added some pics and when I clicked on submit reply I was logged out! WTF? Further the forum is not able to handle normal sized pics (others can reduce size while uploading. It's a pain in the ass to reduce all the sizes before uploading. I know we are all thankful for this forum, but it's not that user friendly I was used to. Why it logs me out while writing?
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As i am not willing to spend another half hour to write again (at least for the moment) here the short version:
I cannot find the aluminum clad glass fiber mat I used 20 years ago, to stubborn to fit without wrinkles, not possible to drape nicely, I decided to go on with the wiring until I find someting useful (open to suggestions). have to fit connectors for standard functions and EFI as well. Therefore splited in two connections |
Unfortunately I need to make a new board for the coils to mount the connectors nicely. Here is what i decided to do. I checked other positions like beside the fuel filter/strut, but for better access in case of issue I think the stock position is best:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1657225494.JPG Top view with plug in position http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1657225494.JPG The receptable lookes like this Deutsch DTV 18 BTW: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1657225738.jpg |
Because i have now much more room for relay and fuses, I want to fit a nicer box for those, more like in the front than each mounted one by one. A first search was not successfull, 2-4 fuses and 1 relay within one box and transparent cover would be nice. Maybe I have to work on one getting close to fulfill my goal
Regarding the connectors, I guess there is no problem with pipe from turbo to IC when I check my old pics of this area. |
Long time no post Roland, good to see you back!
Have you considered using a modern PDM? Much less wiring, lighter, and more functional in many ways, could be ideal for a hotrod like yours that is more about performance than originality. LG aus Wien, Lukas PS: If you write a long post it could be worth using a word processor like MS Word installed locally on your computer to draft it, so that you can be sure it will not get lost. |
Servus Lukas
Yes. But I was never away, just nothing worth to post or nothing done at all... I try to make some more progress but it won't be like 10years ago, too much other things to do or like to do:) However back on the things here: Yes I checked something like PDM. Forgot the brand, was a decade ago I guess. There was something like a Master box in the front (or where you like) and one little at the dashboard for instuments and one in the back of the car. connected by data bus. At the end my decision was against. Can't remember in detail but mainly it was: -not sure on request at the seller, that all signals can be "transferred" for sure, for example analog flashing by relay -due the position of the components, sensors, etc. rear engine, front fuse box etc. still a lot of wiring needed. -probably not that much if any weight saving. -My car is pretty "empty" anyway, without that wiring it would look even more "incomplete" -Heat/Water resistance of the box (in the engine compartment) not guaranteed. -Very expensive (at teast then, no idea today) -not a stand alone thing, PC or so needed for diagnosis, programming etc. Doubt it can be repaired/checked on the road without equipment. Yes, the transfer via word and not writing directly was what I did in the earlier days, just forgot about. Roland |
To get the connectors a bit closer together, I machined the mounting areas so I can use one single bolt for both housings. Saved about 30mm (and of course important to me some weight as well)
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1657539319.JPG http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1657539319.JPG http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1657539319.JPG |
Hey Roland - great to see you back here and still continuing with your project. Nothing to offer but hello and keep up the progress there 8 )
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I chose to go with front and rear Ecumaster PMU16. No more relays or fuses (minus power windows).
Do you have a pic of your wiper assembly and how has it worked? IIRC you drilled the **** out of the rods or did you find a light weight motor for it? |
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Today I found a little time to go on with the coil board. But first I had to make some custom blade (or how it's named) for my hand bending tool. Otherwise I could not bend only part of the board but only full length. Now i can leave about 20cm flat while bending the rest. I mounted on the other side (silver part) so I can still use the whole wide if needed, easy to flip.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1657652072.JPG After a few bents and cutting first test fit. Nice, just like I wanted: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1657652221.JPG http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1657652221.JPG |
Such an amazing and detailed build. Super good to see you back on it.
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This weekend I proceed with board. Almost done, just the fuse-/relaybox misses (not available instantly). Will be fitted were the protection foil is still there, behind the coil unit. Maybe I make some drillings at the area above connectors, let's see what mood I have:D
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Yesterday I received the fuse box, so I could finish the board. Looks a bit more clean than before.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1658252758.JPG http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1658252758.JPG http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1658252758.JPG |
Earlier in this thread I anodized the starter mounting plate and noticed I forgot to leave an area free as the plate is also current earth for starter. So I thought about how to solve this issue. First I tried to shave off the area where the shim/nut is contacting, result: destroyed a HSS Miller. Looks like my anodizing is of good quality:D
So I made what I do normaly when I have to re-Anodize a part, etching but only the neede area. Therefore I cut some hoses and glued them on the plate to secure that I have only this area in contact with etchant. Throught the bore I sticked a piece of rubber as well. Now I filled some etchant in and waited about 1 minute and flushed the part. Done, layer gone:) Same I did the area where bolt for plate - starter was fitted. Looks not that good on pic as I made photo before flushing. Finally checked for resistance: 0.1Ohm which is perfect. Starter refitted and checked from engine case to starter housing: 0.1Ohm as well -> Done http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1659076937.JPG http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1659076937.JPG |
Your car has lived a very hard life my friend....... the only real way to properly revive it, would be to strip it down to a complete bar chassis. I mean all the way down to bare metal.
Then properly repair/replace all affected areas, then repaint and then reassemble. However, you probably already know this. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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As I am not a native english speaking person, I was not sure I understand correct here, so I did not respond... However I do not care about, going on like before (hopefully a bit faster than in the past couple of yeard :D ) Still looking for the insulation stuff, but in between I am working on the wiring and other things. Update soon |
As I am workin on the wiring, I also removed alternator to make a new harness there as well. So I noticed some little leakage on cylinders to head, #4 the most, but all have some little oil "dust" Sooner or later I have to take care of it, just don't know when.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1660504700.JPG http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1660504700.JPG For this reason I started to make a list of parts I have to order. And of course I will make some "upgrades" when I have to open the engine. First I ordered some ARP bolt kits (Head studs, mine are still the stock ones from 40years ago, crankcase, etc...). Until I continue there, I proceed with wiring. Because I removed all the engine electrics, I took the chance and anodized the Sensor housing and made some bushings out of aluminum for weight saving, anodized as well. I use for all my aluminum parts (with only a few exception when no strength is needed) out of 7075, which is quit strong. About 3-4 times of the home improvement store quality. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1660505288.JPG Another thing I have on the to do list since a decade is the throttle body. I shortened the body top end low end when I fitted the B6 intercooler to get it under the deck lid, was to high. It worked, but I was never happy with the result on the cooler side, almost no more venturi and o-ring not in a real seat. First i cleaned in the ultrasonic cleaner (bought a while ago a professional one, way better than those DIY machines). Very nice result: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1660505611.JPG |
I made two rings on the lathe, the lower one below the o-ring and the one on top to make a nice venturi. I made both 1/100mm smaller than body diameter there and shrinked them on. This way they want come loose. The rest of the black peaces I made ten or so years ago (all aluminum), still looking like new.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1660505949.JPG http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1660505949.JPG I am still impressed how nice and clean the body came out of the ultrasonic cleaner. I guess the cleaning agent was not unimportant, a special product for the industry to clean aluminum parts including corrosive protection. |
Disassembly almost done. Lot of things found to do. I won't post yet, because I will go on an not document everything now but will when rebuilt starts. I promise there will be a lot of upgrades and DIY things to show.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1666005396.JPG |
Looking forward to it, Roland.
This build has been such an inspiration, I know there are a bunch of us looking forward to its completion. |
Cross drilling the crank comes to mind from this thread : )
Keep us updated... always fun to see what your doing |
I am a big fan of POR-15 as I own an Italian(the country where tin worms were born). You must follow the instructions and neutralize the surface before application but I have never seen it fail. My mechanic uses it on all the Italian's he services and swears by it.
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PS Hmmm banned for some reason :-) |
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Disassembly complete
Now everything is apart (to be honest, some little things still not)
Starting to evaluate what has to be replaced, what I like to replace and what else I can/should do at this point, starting that next week. Another thing will be the availability of some parts, for example I wait since two months for some ARP bolt kits. Some say on onlineshop "available" but when ordered, they aren't:mad: However soon more about. Here what a mess in my hobby room |
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Started with crankshaft bearings. Visual they look not that bad, bud will replace anyway. Some of them have marks I cannot verify what they caused. Only #1 shows already copper (or what's underneath)frontal and oppisite side. More wear visible at intermediate shaft bearings.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1667674323.JPG http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1667674323.JPG http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1667674323.JPG http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1667674323.JPG http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1667674323.JPG http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1667674323.JPG http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1667674323.JPG http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1667674323.JPG |
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Regarding crankshaft, I know it has been replaced over 20years /ca. 50'000km ago by a reman part. Try to find out (at the end measurement will show) it it's standard size or not.
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