Great idea on the fan vanes. When I took my box of engine bits to cadmium plating you realize how all those little pieces of steel add up to a heavy ass.

After I had contact with ARP,they finally made it possible to get the crankcase bolt kit. A lot of bolts for even more money :) but I just wanted them, even if it doesn't make that much sense. I have to say that all the removed ones where heavily corroded or damaged when removed.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1679404179.JPG


No I started to find out what bolts fits where. Most are clear, but some I have no idea. Normally there is kind of manual added to the ARP kits, but here there is none. Asked them, let's see what they have. Does some of you have made or found a list of the bolts lenghts allover the case?


For example those look like transmission mount, but are short (short bell?)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1679404550.JPG

Those are the most unknown, note two are narrow like for the oil gallery, but main crankcase bolts are a seperat set and I have it, so no place left

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1679404949.JPG

Moved the bolt question to the engine rebuilt forum with further information:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/1136936-arp-crankcase-bolt-confusion.html#post11953366

Since I found all relevant bolts neede to start assembly engine, here we go:

New Main including no. 8 and rod bearings 0.5 oversize fitted. Same size as when disassembled, where still within specs, but showed some wear. As I follow the rule "while I am at it", no doubt I will replace them.
Also I replaced everything at Intermediat shaft: Sprockets, chains, alu gear plug and bearings. Polished shaft bearing surface as well. New oil safety and pressure valve pistons and springs. Increased pressure by adding spacer similar to 964 Turbo due the oil filter console instead of cooler.

For sealing a used same products than the Supertec case sealent kit, but without the Curil T. Sealing kit is Wrightwood Racing.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1680456775.JPG

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1680456775.JPG

After I had some little time more to spend, I mounted the ARP head studs too using loctite 270 like on the case studs before.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1680457667.JPG

Great work as always Roland! :-) I’ve been following this thread from when you started it. It’s always great to see your progress!

I’ve been doing some work on my 930 the past years as well, but like you know, life keeps us busy with childred, housework etc :)

Keep up the good work

Br

Tobias

Hej Tobias

Thank you SmileWavy

Yes, maybe I should stop working and spend all my time for the 930, but wait a moment... Damn, that would lead into money shortage :( Ok, let's proceed as usual;)

I'm glad you were finally able to get a set of both ARP stud kits Roland, and you are making progress again!

And thanks for doing the homework on where what goes for the case studs, strange that they don't come with any instructions.... I have a complete ARP engine bolt kit for a Ford small block V8 here and they simply printed everything right on the packaging so you know what things are for before taking them out. Basically no extra cost for them and they save every customer hours of work... ��

Hello Lukas

On the pack there is a picture printed, where you can see the bolts on the crankcase, but:

-it's a 964 case on that pic
-only one side shown
-bolts frontal sides not visible at all (transmission and engine carrier bolts)
-lot of bolts are just a few mm different, so impossible to see on that pic
-Kit is for several years/case variants, not clear what bolt is for your case and what's left

What I wonder the most is the fact, that ARP said on request they can't tell me for what place each bolt is:

"Hi Roland, I am sorry but we do not have a drawing so your guess on where they go would be as good as mine.
However there is a company here in the states that may be able to guide you.
They specialize in porsche. Company is Engine Builders Supply"

:confused:

But I am thankful they made a kit for me as it seems still not availabe out there.

crosspost I made here:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/310463-cam-oil-line-restrictor-adapter-2.html

Just red a couple of threads about the restrictor with all the pro and against. I am still not sure if I should fit or not, but what I do not understand is that some of the guys decided to choose something in the middle of the earlier 6mm and the new with 2.5mm, so about 4mm. But this make no sense at all, as when you look closer to the cam housing, you see below the adapter that there ist the squirt tube where the oil entries. The hole there is about 4mm (verified by drill), so an adapter of 4mm does... NOTHING. So it has at least be smaller than this, otherwise it has no effect. If you like to have something in the middle you have to fit a restrictor of about 3.3mm (half the cross section)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1680550753.JPG

Off-topic but important
 

What I wanted to ask since a while. I do pictures since a while using my cell. Size will be then about 8Mb each picture. To post it here, I have to reduce the size to 5Mb or less. I do this by reducing size to about 50-60% by right-click of the picture. I could also choose a pixel-size, but did not yet. What I see is that there are huge pictures in this forum compared to mine but they have to be also below 5Mb no? So how do they reduce size while let beeing big at the same time?

The pics that are huge are hosted on another site like Flickr or Photobucket. (or maybe the poster has their own site?)
Then, the pic can be as enormous as you like because you're really only posting a link in your thread to the remotely-hosted picture.

Ahhhh I see... Thanks for clarification Chris.

You're very welcome.

Thank you for the inspiration. I have many photos of your work saved in my phone.

SmileWavy I saw you like drilling things as me;) and your low budged dream car thread is nice as well. I watch it since beginning. And like you I got a lot of inspiration from others. So my credo is:
Watch around, think about and make it my way.

Tapered the wrist pins and adjusted this way the weight so all pistons are same weight of 611gr complete per set.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1681161343.JPG

F... Carrillo
 

Eastern Friday was holiday so I had time to go on. I mounted the pistons and cylinders 1-3 and turned the crankshaft by hand to check everything and then... I could not turn further... back and once more same thing.:confused:
So I took the flashlight and tried to see what happend... I immediately had my suspicions and unfortunately it quickly became clear: The connecting rods 2 and 6 touch the oil pump:mad:

So no other way than to split the case again... and here it is:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1681162085.JPG

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1681162085.JPG

I am really very upset by Carrillo but also myself as I knew their technical info. I says the M064 engine and the 964 pump. I have the 930 case and the latest 930 pump but the bulletin does not mention anything about 930:mad:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1681162723.jpg


The pump was adjusted within 5min then

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1681162806.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1681162806.JPG

I just had to order the o-rings for the main crankcase bolts as they can not be removed without damage... One more lost week:(

That's a bummer...at least you caught it.

There are few things less fun than redoing work you just did.
Best to catch that before you got the top-end back on.

Yes, it could (almost) always be worse... However I'll get the new seals hopefully before weekend, so I can go on. If not, I'll continue on the heads before.

Well almost impossible not to caught, but you are right. Found is found

After reading and thinking a lot about the cam tower and oil restriction I decided to reduce oil amount to the cam tower too. So I made a restrictor (shrink fit) into the adapter. 3.3mm as a compromise between the Porsche 2.5mm and the 4mm of the hole in the splash tube. So half the cross section reduced compared to the usual dimensions.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1681418324.JPG

BTW: While I am typing here, I watch "The Martian" :) What a cool movie!

While still waiting for seals, I made a ARP look-a-like bolt as it was not in the kit (only studs there and none of this length) and I have some shims and nuts left. So I have the same still all around the case bolts.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1681419144.JPG

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1681419144.JPG

It's the one at the lowest point of the case near transmission.

I admire your perseverance with all these projects!

How are your plastic door handles holding up? I had forgotten you had made some and wasn't able to find any trigger-style plastic door handles so I made my own out of MJF nylon (3D printed). You can see layer lines on the inside but on the outside it's a more even pebble texture from the vapor finishing process. I do wonder how they will handle southern California heat and sunlight but there's only one way to find out. They save about 275g each. Without the lock cylinder they weigh nothing. Some flex uninstalled but I think once installed they will be fine.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1681510344.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1681510344.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1681510344.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1681510344.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1681510344.jpg

Well I did not made them myself but a nice guy here made them as a prototype for me. Unfortunately as you may know, I did not drove the car at all since. so nothing I can say about durability or so. Only that they fit nice and yes, they flex a bit. Of course you cannot expect same lifespan than metal ones.

I am going to Austria next weekend for snowboarding on the glacier as every year. Before I plan to prepare/finish the heads. What I wonder since decades is the fact, that almost everyone seems to recommend the procedure of mounting the heads as followed:

-Mount heads on engine, but not torque them already, only tight head nuts by hand
-Mount the cam towers and torque the heads to them
-Finally torque the heads

Why this? Some say things like to let the heads play/align to the cylinders, but that's nonsense to me. The Heads have 8mm H6 dowel pins, so there isn't anything to align. So why not mount the heads on the towers before and then mount the whole package on the engine? I mean there is no difference to an other engine with one cylinder bank and head (except possible difference in height, but that issue would be one anyway)

Heads assembled using lot of new parts:

ZF-TWR valves
Eibach sport springs (slightly raised pressure)
Aasco Titan retainers
Wrightwood stem seals
Silverlake Titan exhaust studs, all others 8.8 steel

Valve guides replaced, Valve seats machined, cylinder sealing surface as well.
Valves set to 34.5mm inlet and 33.5mm outlet as I am using 964 cams

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1681759711.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1681759711.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1681759711.JPG

Continued with cylinders. New Mahle's as old ones were just not good enough, most measurements near wear limit.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1685741118.JPG


Next: Heads, camtowers with new bushings for rocker arms, shafts and all hardware including RSR seals. rocker arms polished as the where almost like new.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1685741565.JPG


New chains, sprockets, guides mounted. 964 cams, timing set to 1.26mm.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1685742047.JPG

RarlyL8 Headers are still state of the art, still love them

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1685742343.JPG

I had to replace my fan shroud. Made it myself years ago, but was not happy with the fit. Had a unprecise negative form from a friend... Aftermarket ones are easy to get, but none of them inspire me, wrong color, wrong cout-outs for injector blocks, etc.. Finally I found out, that the stock 964 Turbo one is nice and very cheap, about 250 USD and it's a two piece item, so easy to access to wiring etc. behind fan, fit is excellent. Also I like the plain black finish. Spacers, selfmade sealings injector blocks and inlet manifold mounted (details about earlier in this thread and in my Another EFI conversion thread)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1685743052.JPG

As some of you may remember i had problems to get the Blownsix IC under the wing... However result of that issue ist that I modified my throttlebody (cut-off about 5mm at the lower side, IC seat on top as well. As a result of my EFI conversion, the inlet manifold is also about 5mm lower. Therefore the trottle body does not fit anymore, not enough room because the new shroud seems to be a bit more voluminous. Also the 964 Turbo throttlebody is different, no port for distributor there. As I don't have a dizzy at all, I machined off that area and locked the boring:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1685743734.JPG

Nice progress!

Made a couple of things, but no pictures at the moment. Just one thing to show and tell:

As I replaced all steel fittings with aluminum ones, sensors with negative pole over housing miss now ground contact. To save somehow more parts and connections I replace the oil pressure sender and warning switch by combinated unit and added there the earth connection. Unit is Febi Bilstein, less than 20USD and it looks nice. I guess you can buy 5 or more of them for the price of a genuine one...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1686661222.jpg

Another thing I cannot really understand: You can see on the pic the Plug on top of the turbo oil feed line. To have the possibility to mount an pressure gauge I left the port and bought a plug at Summit racing (I bought a couple of fittings there, no issues so far) and when I wanted to torque, no one of my allen keys fitted... WTF? I checked the Summit page: M10x1 metric plug.
So I expect the allen key is also metric... However I asked Summit customer support and they told me, that it's not said, that a metric plug needs metric keys...:confused:
Ok could make sense, but I think it's mandatory in my eyes to write that into the description... Luckily I found a key that worked, but still a bit annoyed, especially as I bought an M14x1.5 plug (same brand) from them a year ago and key was metric...

I finally received the wanted fan housing strap from Ächtung Kraft (thanks for the 1st class customer service from Brian). To have a tighter seat with less flex, I first bent it where it has to for case:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1686903711.JPG

It's made very well, flawless finish. Worth the price for sure

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1686903941.JPG

Made some aluminum brackets earlier style with two M6 instead of one M8 which has the advantage that the clamping is nearer to the fan, less deformation. Also I could make it fit better. Further I changed measurements to get a smaller gap. Funny, without the intention to save weight (except the aluminum of course, the M6 as a little less weight than the M8 :) )

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1687020407.JPG

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1687020407.JPG

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1687020407.JPG

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1687020407.JPG

I love it.
IDK if Bryan is subscribed to this thread, so I'm going to send this to him. Very cool that you modify everything to suit your taste!

Because I did not liked the oil llnes (tubes) I made for the oil feed crankcase to cam towers, mainly the big bows top side, I decided to make an improved version, still using aluminum lines.
First I had to make som eadapters for the banjo to have them a bit away from cam towers, otherwise banjo would not fit. Inner and outer threads are M12x1. Also I made the inner diameter 3.3mm as reducer like seen earlier:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1688410554.JPG

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1688410981.JPG


Because of the use of banjo instead of straight outlet at cam towers, I was able to rout the lines much closer tho the chain housings:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1688411186.JPG

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1688411186.JPG

After a break due to illness I continued with brackets for the 964 IC. This was a good reason to test my new profile bending apparatus.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1691093298.JPG

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1691093298.JPG


anodized as usual :)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1691093818.JPG


Decoupled from vibrations similar to OE using rubber grommets. Therefore I made some M8 special nuts out of M12 allen bolts to get the needed measurements.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1691094433.JPG

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1691094632.JPG

After saving the post, I realized that the nut is maybe not visible that good, so I here is a pic of it's "layout", i guess it's called sleeve nut:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1691095236.jpg

Roland, top notch work!
Care to share a pic of the new bending apparatus?

Hello Chris

Here it is. Pic is not taken by me, but it's the one I bought on a local auction platform. I only had to add a long lever for easier bending and I bought some inserts with different radius' as 0° was to small for my 5mm profile (breaks or at least cracks)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1691156797.jpg

Very cool, Roland. Thank you.
I'm always looking to expand my tool collection and this looks much more precise than a press-brake or just jamming something in my vise.