Another rust combat

[proffighter]

Pedal box, wiper unit and steering column removed today

[proffighter]

and the disassembly goes on...

There is potential to save weight here too:



Wheels off for cleaning, suspension and brake check:





Weight savings on CV's, no issues

[totle]

Wow, you are really stripping that down Roland

[proffighter]

Originally Posted by totle

Wow, you are really stripping that down Roland

Well, after I saw this from GKN, I thought, what they can do I can too

[proffighter]

Front suspension and steering rack gone...

[proffighter]

Rear suspension off too





Because the winter evenings are cold and dark, I found some time to think about the parts I removed.

Conclusion: There is always a place for a drill, even on a Momo steering hub:

Before:





After:

[proffighter]

Drill drill drill

[IMR-Merlin]

I like your thought process..... grams add up to ounce and ounces add up to lbs.

[proffighter]

Off Topic:

My Friend was not wondering about the pedal cluster (he is familar with Porsche parts at home) but expected his daily goodie

[proffighter]

Hi to all

Hope you had a nice break and good start in 2012

I found some time to finish stripping and reactivate the carrier I made 10 years ago:

[MikeD930]

You came a long way to strip your 930 down! Are you going to repaint it in different color? The current color looks great.

The stands with wheels looks too narrow...is it stable enough? I think it would be perfect if it's 2ft or half a meter wider.

Keep posting your progress!

[proffighter]

Originally Posted by MikeD94

You came a long way to strip your 930 down! Are you going to repaint it in different color? The current color looks great.

The stands with wheels looks too narrow...is it stable enough? I think it would be perfect if it's 2ft or half a meter wider.

Keep posting your progress!

Mike

No color change.

Yes, the stand is a bit narrow. It's ok to work, as long as you won't enter the cab... Can't remember why I made it this way, maybe I just did not knew it better 10 years ago

[proffighter]

As I have some time now until the chassis is ready to reassembly I will spend the time to work on all the other things.

First what came into my fingers: Steering joints. What can I do here? Drilling of course:

[WANNA930]

Did I read write that you had chassis chemically dipped? If so there is a big reason in the US they have gone from like 100 to say 3 shops that do it. The chemicals stay in the seams and are very hard to bake out. Not only that you also strip all the internal surface coatings which looks like to be the case with your car.

There are many high dollar restos that show seam seap and inner panel rust do to thsi process. It takes some serious prep to do a car like that including opening and replacing most closed cavities.

You have a tough situation there as it is rusting from the inside out. I would open whatever areas you can to what is going on but again that creates another mess. POR to me just is a gimmic. There are good rust converters and removers that do work. Make sure you then coat with the correct product. Coating a rusted panel with wax will just seal the rust and moisture creating even more.

Good luck!

[WANNA930]

Did you drill holes in a steering joint? Why risk it? aluminum or lighter version are available.

[cole930]

Roland:

Really nice work my friend, keep the pics. comming.

Cole

[proffighter]

Originally Posted by WANNA930

Did I read write that you had chassis chemically dipped? If so there is a big reason in the US they have gone from like 100 to say 3 shops that do it. The chemicals stay in the seams and are very hard to bake out. Not only that you also strip all the internal surface coatings which looks like to be the case with your car.

There are many high dollar restos that show seam seap and inner panel rust do to thsi process. It takes some serious prep to do a car like that including opening and replacing most closed cavities.

You have a tough situation there as it is rusting from the inside out. I would open whatever areas you can to what is going on but again that creates another mess. POR to me just is a gimmic. There are good rust converters and removers that do work. Make sure you then coat with the correct product. Coating a rusted panel with wax will just seal the rust and moisture creating even more.

Good luck!

Yes, car had a chemical treatment, but there are different ones. My car was not in a leaching bath but in a glycol ether bath. Further to remove rust, it was dipped in a phospor bath, which is absolutly no danger for healthy metal because it is not corrosive at all, even if some of it will stay inside

The problem was, that after that, the painter did not treated the box sections and some other areas with paint at all!

[proffighter]

Originally Posted by WANNA930

Did you drill holes in a steering joint? Why risk it? aluminum or lighter version are available.

I checked the aluminum ones too, but max torque is far lower than similar sized steel ones.

In my opinion, the weaker part of the joint is on the oposite side of the pin, there (red) is much less material than around my drillings (green), so it will not fail there first

[proffighter]

Originally Posted by cole930

Roland:

Really nice work my friend, keep the pics. comming.

Cole

Thanks Cole, I will

[proffighter]

Back on topic.

The car will be checked very well, box sections opened and everything needed will be done. I cannot tell now, what exactly, I am no pro in sheet metal working.

I have talked to a lot of tinner people (correct word?) and found one I trust. He learned his business at a Porsche shop and has over 20years of experience. Further he made an education in painting, so I get both from one hand.