AFR graph Adj WUR help

[timspu]

Gents i am currently adjusting my WUR . I have adjusted the WUR by hitting the full throttle enrichment insert in by 2mm from original setting. (it is now 4mm below flush)My car at its richest was 10AFR. Can anyone advise how much this insert is tapped in until a mid 11 AFR is gained. Can anyone share a graph as mine looks all over the place.
Not sure how to attach as it is not in a JPEG format.
How much smoothing the graphs do you use. If i smooth the graph it is running at 11AFR, with out smoothing 9.8 AFR is registered.


Car is running 0.9 bar boost, 3LDZ, all standard apart from K@N's.

Thanks

TIM

[quattrorunner]

I don't understand. What are your afr's at all the driving conditions? Like first idle, then at say 3krpm, then full throttle?
Mine are as follows: idle at 12/1 or so(moves around some) then at 3k mine is about 15/1, and at full throttle I see 11/1 All these numbers are approximate. My innovate rapidly changes up an down +\- .5

[timspu]

I have 13.4 at idle. balanced throttle around 14.9, on full thottle i can only go by the recording as i don't have a permanent install, it drops to 9.98 AFR and picks up to around 10.7.
i wish i could post my graph as it would then make sense.

[quattrorunner]

Seems safe

[timspu]

I have 13.4 at idle. balanced throttle around 14.9, on full thottle i can only go by the recording as i don't have a permanent install, it drops to 9.98 AFR and picks up to around 10.7.
i wish i could post my graph as it would then make sense.

[JFairman]

sounds like it wants more air under boost... turn it up 1.1 - 1.2bar and see what the AFR is around 6000-6800rpms. might be better with the side effect of going faster.

[timspu]

I am hesitant about upping boost on a bog standard engine. I would prefer to lean off by use of the adjustable WUR. What am i actually looking for whilst adjusting? is it the richest point or the end point? I am trying to get the AFR to 11.5. What shoul di be looking for on the graph? Should i smooth the graph to see an average ?

[quattrorunner]

I'd say a spike is not important. You want to focus on the number that is most consistent. Sounds like mid 10's. If you had a better Intercooler, raise the boost, if not, adjust a little more lean. I think 11-12 low boost is good provided you have cool charge.

[timspu]

I am aiming for 11.5, so the best thing to do would be to smooth that graph out. Attached is graph smoothed out, the only issue is that it removes the leaner sections, Would you say going by the smoothed graph i can lean out some more to achieve 11.5 AFR? The reason for high figures on the AFR is that my air pump is still connected
Temps in the UK are never usually more than 22 deg C where i live.

Thanks

TIM

[timspu]

Quattrorunner,
Did as you advised, had a buddy in the co pilots seat watching the AFR's.
2nd gear, hit 11.6 AFR at 6400 rpm, 3rd gear hit 10.7 AFR at 6K and 4th gear hit 10.6 at 5k, a little bit too fast.

Will adjust again to see if i can get 3rd gear into the mid elevens without second gear hitting 12's.

Cheers

[quattrorunner]

Paid attention to mine last night too and noticed it spiked into the 9.9 area and then ran around 10.3-10.8 which is more rich than I need with wmi so I'm going to adjust the mixture on the fuel distributor. I don't have adjustable wur.

[Miguel Antonett]

Originally Posted by quattrorunner

Paid attention to mine last night too and noticed it spiked into the 9.9 area and then ran around 10.3-10.8 which is more rich than I need with wmi so I'm going to adjust the mixture on the fuel distributor. I don't have adjustable wur.

How do you do that adjustment on the fuel distributor - assuming the stock one?

[quattrorunner]

It's the simplest thing, between the dist and the intakefrom the airbox, might be hard to see, there is a stickup tube looking thingy that accepts a 3mm allen for which you can adjust the distributor actuation arm. This arm moves up and down based on airflow, the arm is attached to a plunger inside the distributor which opens the flow of fuel to the cis injectors, the3mm allen adjusts the setting on the arm for the distributor actuation. Just insert the 3mm allen and adjust watching your AFR gauge. Adjust tiny increments left or right, I think to lean it, you go right I could be wrong but tiny adjustments show results. You do need to push down initially which causes the arm to move which interupts the engine mix till the 3mm allen is in the right configuration for adjustment. Good luck, PM for any info or a phone number.

[mooney265]

what quattrorunner is saying is partially correct. I "used" to think that the 3mm screw only adjusted the idle mixture. while it certainly does adjust the idle mixture, it also has an slight effect on the cruise and boost mixture - - so, he is correct there. however, if you want to "LEAN" your mixture, you turn the screw to the "LEFT" or CCW... only turn 10-degrees at a time - small turn = big change!! [just remember LEFT=LEAN and RIGHT=RICH]

it's a crazy balancing act, so I would always recommend you set the WUR to the factory settings and begin adjusting from there. you will notice there is an ample amount of leeway in the factory WUR settings.

this is a nice read: HERE

make sure you have a CIS gauge set and miteyvac [to simulate boost].

[RarlyL8]

The fuel head mixture screw is used to adjust the baseline of fuel delivery (idle). This slight tuning will translate throughout the range but is not significant or useful at the top end. If you adjust the mixture screw to richen or lean the top end it will likely be way off at idle.
Found this pic which may help:

[quattrorunner]

I was lucky, my setup is so close that the idle mixture correctly adjusted my idle, cruise and high boost settings without anyother help. I would think that most stock config casses to be similar to mine.

[timspu]

Quattrorunner,
Is your second gear pull leaner than either 3rd or 4th?
I only notice late 9's early 10's when using the LM-1 graph plot. The handheld unit obviously has a slower sampling rate so the graph will have to be smoothed by
about a second to read similar to the hand held readout.

[JFairman]

If you're going to keep adjusting the control pressure regulator until you give up then tapping on the cold start and boost enrichment control pressure adjustments like you're doing is hard on it.
You may notice you can hear the springs inside ringing everytime you hit it and if you go to the end of the adjustment which there is no way of knowing when other then it seems to stop and you keep hitting it it's gonna get screwed up.

C clamp works better to squeeze those two adjustments in and doesn't beat the insides up. You should get a CIS fuel pressure gauge now that you've been hitting it and start with resetting it to stock control pressures.
UK is a cool climate compard to most of the southern half of the USA and raising the boost to 1 bar or 1.1 bar for the usual street blasts that don't last long will not hurt it. Flooring it between every corner and down a long straight on a track lap after lap could hurt it.

Originally Posted by timspu

Gents i am currently adjusting my WUR . I have adjusted the WUR by hitting the full throttle enrichment insert in by 2mm from original setting. (it is now 4mm below flush)My car at its richest was 10AFR. Can anyone advise how much this insert is tapped in until a mid 11 AFR is gained. Can anyone share a graph as mine looks all over the place.
Not sure how to attach as it is not in a JPEG format.
How much smoothing the graphs do you use. If i smooth the graph it is running at 11AFR, with out smoothing 9.8 AFR is registered.


Car is running 0.9 bar boost, 3LDZ, all standard apart from K@N's.

Thanks

TIM

[timspu]

JFairman,

I am only tapping the Enrichment insert gently , currently have not heard any spring noise. Not sure how much movement the insert has, i am now at 4mm down from flush, will be moving in another 1mm to see what i get.
The cold start was adjusted by tightening the insert as it was way too rich.
Very good point on the use of G clamps. i think i will go down that route for the next adjustment.
Question on the overboost switch, when does it cut in?
I have a manual boost controller so i will give it a ago upto 1 bar and a little.

Thank you for your input, its nice to hear the opinions so i can get my car set up right.

Cheers

TIM

[JFairman]

Overboost sending units will vary after 25 years. When I got my '87 the one on it would shut the pumps off at .95 bar and then it got so bad you had to wait about 3 minutes on the side of the road for the spring inside it to push the worn out diaphram and electrical contacts away from each other so the car could start.

That was not acceptable so I bought a new one for $60. It shut the pumps off around 1.35 bar when I first got it and now after 6 years it does it around 1.2 bar in a violent way so I bypassed it and grounded the white wire.

You're better off replacing it with an adjustable hobbs switch that is much higher quality and cost half as much as the low quality way overpriced overboost switch. Then you can adjust it to ground the white wire and disconnect the fuel pump relay grounds at whatever boost pressure you want.