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Engine compartment catch

I have a 1989 turbo 930 which has been garaged for a number of years. I now find that I cannot open the engine compartment. The "T" shaped pull catch located inside the drivers door frame will not budge. Anybody got any ideas as to how to release this catch as I don't want to snap this catch by applying too much force.
I have sprayed WD40 wherever I can but still nothing happens.
Old 12-26-2013, 01:33 PM
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David,

Here are a couple of possibilities. Read this first one, then check some of the other sources on the 2nd one. Lots of discussions come up.

I will also mention that I had this happen a couple of times over the decades [too many Porsches to be specific...sorry]. What I do recall was the last time it was my '79 930 and I grabbed the lid and moved it around a bit... trying to make the rod bit attached to the lid move inside the latch itself. I then tried forcing it closed a bit harder ... hard to describe and reading what I am writing sounds like asking for problems. Basically, moving it around a bit and then going back and giving the cable another big yank.. and it popped. It turned out the locking nut had loosened up allowing the rod to change length.

If yours is completely frozen shut.... what about removing the T handle and giving the end of the cable a tap or three with a small hammer? You want to unfreeze whatever is causing the problem.

And... here are the links:

Broken engine lid/cover release cable

https://www.google.com/search?q=EMERGENCY+RELEASE+ON+PORSCHE+911+ENGINE+L ID&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&client=firefox-a#q=EMERGENCY+RELEASE+ON+PORSCHE+911+ENGINE+LID&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial

Good luck. Please let us know how this turns out.
JR
Old 12-26-2013, 10:04 PM
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Let us know how it turns out.
Old 12-27-2013, 07:34 AM
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Shake the lid side to side while a helper pulls on the release. Unless it is rusted solid, this should work.
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Old 12-27-2013, 08:14 AM
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I very much appreciate your rapid responses. I will certainly let you know how I get on.
Old 12-27-2013, 11:37 AM
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Happened once to me, not a broken cable but slightly bent/mis-aligned latch rod thingy. I thought I was screwed, since there is no way to get anywhere near the latching mechanism. I just had someone pull the cable and hold it there while I gave the rear desk a great big bear hug and shook it side-to-side, back and forth, while keeping light upwards pressure. She popped open, which called for another beer to be popped open as well. I later installed a coat hanger wire emergency connection that I can reach even with the muffler still in place.
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Old 12-27-2013, 03:07 PM
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Happened to me once ,i locked my keys in the engine bay so i couldnt even open the door to pull the lever, i got in by pushing the metal grille through the right hand side edge on the tail making enough of a gap to push a rod down to push the latch open physically, it worked, after i pushed the metal grill back up and re-screwed it.
Old 12-29-2013, 07:12 AM
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Hi,

My engine lid is still stuck, i have tried wriggling it, pushing it, pulling it but no movement at all on the "T" handle.
JR suggests I remove the T handle but how do I do that?
Tomorrow I will remove the LHS light cluster to see what I can do from there. I wonder if I should try to remove the internal lining in the rear of the car to access the cable there and give it a tug (I assume it travels internally from the T handle to the rear).
Old 01-12-2014, 07:04 AM
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David,

My various ideas include trying to get that *(%(%^( T handle to cooperate a bit. When I was having fun with mine, the T handle pull assy was very stiff and almost wouldn't move. I ended up putting a lot of force into it. I also recall on one that I was able to get the T handle to pull out a bit but that changed nothing. I then..and in this case.. IF.. you can get it to pull out at all.. You want to expose the cable it is attached to. If you can do this =PROTECT= the surrounding bodywork/towel,whatever- and pulling it out as far as you can- clamp it open with a set of locking pliers. THEN see if you can get it loose. NO? OK, if you have the cable securely clamped in place you should be able to unscrew the plastic T handle. ....

Really. At this point you are in danger. One slip or small screw up and you are damaging paint work and possibly even body. Time to check locally with whom you might trust to fix it and have a quality shop assume the liability for it. This is a 930, and unless you are a highly experienced mechanic you should [NEED] to have a trusted mechanic for servicing or helping you with things you do not have experience with. These cars are fairly durable and I read a lot of things on this site and others where guys with little clue digs into them [not so much as a workshop manual!] and "fixes" them. Many times the cars keep on going, but many times the quality of the work is inferior and at some point [$$$$$$$$] it catches up with them. These are not "like VWs", as so many used to claim when they complained that the local Porsche shop was charging too much, so they took them to a VW place that screwed up their 911. You do not want to be one of those guys with $$$$ problems caused by saving a buck. I do a lot of things myself, but I have been playing with these since 1968, have a massive quantity of tools, all factory manuals +, and a brother who is an expert 930 mechanic. Even then, I have more than once paid to have a 930 shipped to him [500+ mi away] for a proper fix/upgrade. Consider this carefully before proceeding further. What a shop will charge is modest compared to fixing that nasty gouge in the paint/body.
Old 01-12-2014, 09:35 AM
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Agree, take it to an experienced 930/911 shop.
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Old 01-12-2014, 10:01 AM
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Seriously boys, is that the best we can do to help? This forum is of no value if the only direction we can give is to "take it to a shop". The reality of things is that qualified and knowledgeable 930 or 911 mechanics - and their shops - are unobtanium for many of us living out in the boonies. That's what this collective wisdom is all about.

Unfortunately, there are probably instances where a shop is the only alternative. Sad, but true. Fortunately I have yet to run into that problem....knock on wood! (oh boy, now I've done it....)
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Old 01-12-2014, 02:06 PM
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Did you try my way i mentioned above?

The metal grille i mentioned before is the one on the Rear spoiler
stick a screw driver on the right hand side closest to you as your facing it then lever a gap open then get a long metal rod or broom stick or whatever and push the catch through the gap you have made! when you have it open it screw the grill back into the tail.

Guaranteed Fix no shop needed
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Old 01-12-2014, 04:54 PM
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Robby,

I wasn't sure what grille you were referring to in your earlier post but now I see you mean the grille in the spoiler housing the A/C condenser and intercooler. It is not so easy to prise a gap without damaging both the grille and bodywork. Maybe the grille on my 1989 930 is different from yours, it is louvred but also houses a bird guard, I don't see how I could get it back to be flush with the bodywork as it is now even with screws which would not look good.
If I remove the internal bulkhead covering below the back window won't i find the cable there? Maybe if I can get to the back of the T handle where the cable begins I can work from there, it must run through the car at some point surely.
I take JR's point about letting a Porsche shop take responsibility etc but this is not a complicated "race tuning" issue, it is not highly technical but a b***** nuisance so I will keep on trying myself for now.
If I succeed then maybe this thread can help the next DIYer when he has a similar problem and nothing seems to work.
I'll keep you posted.
Old 01-13-2014, 10:17 AM
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The cable tube runs through the fender well, NOT through the interior of your car. If you look closely inside your rear drivers side fender, you will see the tube containing the cable, running along the top of the inner fender well.
No way to get to it from the interior.
You may possibly be able to get to the latch from under the car, by carefully working some slim tools through the rubber engine compartment seal, gonna be a ***** though!
Best of luck, and buy the way, a shop is not going to have any surprise tricks for this, it's just going to cost you a bunch of cash.

Mark
Old 01-13-2014, 01:40 PM
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When this happened to me, I researched the hell out of it on this forum and the 911 forums. The only thing I came up with was the "shake and rattle" of the hood. Once I was lucky enough to get it opened, it turned out that the spring loaded post that inserts and locks down into the latching mechanism was slightly bent, causing it to hang up to one side and not "pop" up under the spring tension as it should. When you eventually get her open, take off the post/spring assembly and make sure it's true/straight, then re-install with minimal tension (which means it will unlatch, but the lid won't automatically pop up free of the catch - it then becomes a two handed operation to pull the release lever while pulling up on the lid). Then in gradual steps, increase the tension on the spring by screwing the post in further, then re-test until the lid pops up and clears the latching mechanism. Tighten her down enough to get clean fitment lines between the hood and the fenders. Go too far and there will be too much spring tension to release at all and you'll be back to square one. Hard to explain, but once you've got her open and can reconnoiter the situation, you'll understand.

Broken release cables would be the worst situation....sticking cables and/or latches might be addressed with lubrication if a person could find a way to get some WD40 in there. Here's a thought: take a Dremel with cut-off wheel and cut the guide tube under the fender well, or just drill a small hole in it (but not through to the cable!!!), just enough to open it up to insert the WD40 nozzle and squirt the piss outa it.

Going down through the "bird guard" (love that description) might be worth a try as mentioned.
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Old 01-13-2014, 05:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by full quack View Post
The cable tube runs through the fender well, NOT through the interior of your car. If you look closely inside your rear drivers side fender, you will see the tube containing the cable, running along the top of the inner fender well.
No way to get to it from the interior.
You may possibly be able to get to the latch from under the car, by carefully working some slim tools through the rubber engine compartment seal, gonna be a ***** though!
Best of luck, and buy the way, a shop is not going to have any surprise tricks for this, it's just going to cost you a bunch of cash.

Mark
As Mark sugests. If that doesnt work cut the cable housing and pull the wire to open the hatch. Of course you will have to replace the cable and housing but it's open.
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Old 01-13-2014, 05:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David930 View Post
Robby,

I wasn't sure what grille you were referring to in your earlier post but now I see you mean the grille in the spoiler housing the A/C condenser and intercooler. It is not so easy to prise a gap without damaging both the grille and bodywork. Maybe the grille on my 1989 930 is different from yours, it is louvred but also houses a bird guard, I don't see how I could get it back to be flush with the bodywork as it is now even with screws which would not look good.
If I remove the internal bulkhead covering below the back window won't i find the cable there? Maybe if I can get to the back of the T handle where the cable begins I can work from there, it must run through the car at some point surely.
I take JR's point about letting a Porsche shop take responsibility etc but this is not a complicated "race tuning" issue, it is not highly technical but a b***** nuisance so I will keep on trying myself for now.
If I succeed then maybe this thread can help the next DIYer when he has a similar problem and nothing seems to work.
I'll keep you posted.
Yes i was referring to that grille, in mine i didnt have condenser in the spoiler and my tail had space to to do it without permanent damage... i basically popped down the (birdguard) i did pull One (1) screw but i fixed that by rescrewing that screw into different part of birdguard, ill have to take it out completely when i have time and flatten it properly as i basically just flattened it with my hand as the metal is flexible. heres what i did in pic




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Old 01-13-2014, 05:07 PM
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Rob,

My spoiler is not quite like yours as you can see from the photos, I am sure i will do damage. The A/C condenser is in the way anyway so I don't think that this is a possible access route for me.
Maybe i have to cut away the cable sleeve in the wheel well and pull on the cable from there. I believe if the cable breaks then the catch should fail open (in theory)
Old 01-14-2014, 05:53 AM
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YESSSS!!
At last after a bit more side jiggling of the lid AND rotating the T handle it finally opened.
i think the problem was at the T handle end as the catch itself is in pristine condition with no rust at all. The cable at the handle was a bit rusty so I have dosed that in WD 40, needless to say the engine lid is going to remain propped open for now.

Thanks for all your suggestions on how to solve my problem.
Old 01-15-2014, 08:13 AM
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David,

Delighted to hear that it finally cooperated. These can be fussy old beasts that remind us of who is really the boss.

:->

JR
Old 01-15-2014, 09:12 AM
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