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Does anyone know where i can get required piping and parts in order to fit a 3.3 intercooler to a 3.0 engine?
below ive included the two parts that need to be joined together, ic to motor. and not even 5 percent sure on what to do, I cant take it to a mechanic as its not viable ![]() Cheers Ive numbered for reference the different parts on the ic ![]() this is where my knowledge ends, If anyone knows of any links showing a step by step how to it would help ![]()
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Wheels Last row 1977 3.0 930 260hp built, still reassembling Row 1998 996 MK1 3.4 296hp new daily driver |
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Ive noticed also some cars have Silicon hoses, can they be used for the 930 up pipe part?
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Wheels Last row 1977 3.0 930 260hp built, still reassembling Row 1998 996 MK1 3.4 296hp new daily driver |
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The small tubes ... cap one of the small tubes and connect your auxillary air regulator to the other. 3 ply silicone from inlet side to turbo. The smallest tube near the inlet is a port that goes directly to your wastegate (side of WG, not top). That is the easy part. The last thing you need is a 3.3 bypass assembly and modify to fit. Or, take the bypass you currently have and replace with 3 ply silicone hose from exit of IC to throttle body. Then ground your overboost wire (white I think..) Last step, install a blow off valve in line, some ebay sellers sell the silicone hose with a BOV adaptor molded in. Modify this to work and plumb exit of BOV back into intake either by a 964 turbo intake elbow (60.00 ebay) or vent it to atmosphere and enjoy the swoosh. I haven't had my coffee yet this morning so I may have missed something but I hope it helps.
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Thanks, im onto it,
This is going to be fun ![]()
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Wheels Last row 1977 3.0 930 260hp built, still reassembling Row 1998 996 MK1 3.4 296hp new daily driver |
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No offence, but I would not do as Nuen suggests and ground the overboost switch wire as this then disables the overboost circuit (shuts the fuel pumps off at a little over 1 BAR) as this circuit can save your ass if you forget to attach the wastegate signal line (like I did in dumbass fashion a while back), or if the hose comes off or the wastegate sticks closed.
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Good advice Ronnie. So Robby will have to tap in someplace for the sensor then. I grounded mine but I always check everything before I run my 930, sort of a pre flight so to speak..I have an aftermarket IC so it just seemed easiest at the time. Also I have a 2 stage dial of death so sometimes I see 1.2 bar
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WG Signal line you mean the line that goes to bottom of aar from bottom WG hole? here is is how i understand to connect the top area PLS see colored shematical diagram they each match up (colors) to the proposed engineering modification each is numbered see 1 then 2 then 3, sorry best i could do atm while keeping it looking partly readable ![]() #1 white, thats the bypass? got to go yes? #2 I was thinking where the IC goes to the Throttle body (2) it looks like its pretty close as it is see it? might not need much modification #3 theres an open hole maybe dont know i cant see into it but it has a hose coming off it can i go from there to one of the 2 smaller pipes on the ic? ive attached an unmolested pic under if you guys need to make any mods/corrections ive missed If my car works after i do this it will be undeniable proof to the world that the 930 engine is the best you can get !! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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Quote:
Last edited by Ronnie's.930; 01-09-2014 at 03:12 PM.. |
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Crotchety Old Bastard
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I hate to poop in your punchbowl but a 3.3L intercooler will not fit a 3.0L throttlebody.
To do this correctly you'll need a 3.3L intake manifold and BOV. You will also need to modify the 3.3L up-pipe if you have a stock 3LDZ as they are different on the 3.3L engine. It's not as easy as you would think due to all the small differneces adding up. If I were doing this I would build a custom intercooler and retain everything 3.0L.
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RarlyL8 Motorsports / M&K Exhaust - 911/930 Exhaust Systems, Turbos, TiAL, CIS Mods/Rebuilds '78 911SC Widebody, 930 engine, 915 Tranny, K27, SC Cams, RL8 Headers & GT3 Muffler. 350whp @ 0.75bar Brian B. (256)536-9977 Service@MKExhaust Brian@RarlyL8 |
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I agree with Brian. Would be a lot easier.
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Brando
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oddly enough, the 3.3 manifold with 3.0 throttle body didn't fit either. The end of the vacuum bung thingy hit the shroud. I had to use the 3.0 manifold that I luckily had on hand.
And I lucked into a 3.0 andial intercooler as well. Fits like a glove and nothing else will. It is doable though, just assemble something. ![]()
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not sure on turbo type it looks pretty new , ive got a reciept from prev owner it states in the list of work done and parts added Quote: /Reconditioned Turbo installed /Endquote" price for this was $1600, And reading that sounds pretty slack to me if someone pays $1600 for a part youd think at least the shop would say what type it was? pfft. But admittely it was in a list of this particular reciept totalling $16k so they were probably excited with all that money coming in from the work and missed out on details, I did post a couple of pics of the turbo in a recent thread enquiring on type, jury was out as one pelican mentioned that more pics of serial numbers are needed etc, Its back in the car now and my back wont handle taking it out again with that awkward twisted turbo pipe. But thx for heads up and advice, but i think some have made it work (but perhaps not optimal) but still a solution.? I understand that your looking at it in a engineer type of view, but thats costly for me ![]() For a working but not perfect solution i could use a 3 ply silicone hose from the ic straight to the throttle body, and also silicone hose with reducer from ic back down to turbo?, do you believe that will work? or not? I realise not optimal its def not perfect but a couple of flexible hoses bit of shoving and swearing so the biggest prob will be the bov, heck i dont even know where it is but ill find that and try to put it on new setup somehow or make one, ![]() Great Tip to remove rust from inside petrol tank Get a few bottles of Apple cider Vinegar and vinegar put it in and shake for 3 or 4 minutes let t sit for a bit then shake again then mt, repeat again and mt, just two rinses and all rust is gone from inside of tank , ![]() Next is what i did but i cant recommend it as it is not tested as i havent put fuel pump etc back in yet, I Sprayed inside of tank with WD40, i thought about it it its a rust stopper and also lubricant and also helps start wet engines so i gave it a shot for future proofing against rust, we'll see ![]()
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Ronnie when you said
No, the wastegate signal line/hose is the small hose that supplies boost pressure to the wasegate diaphragm, and it connects to the small spout (#2 in the first pic of this thread)on the bottom of the OEM intercooler and to the side spout on the wastegate. Thats what i thought i think am i right in describing The signal line in stock formation as engine is now goes from side wg hole (not top) and then to small now #%&**# broken nipple at bottom of aar? hmmm im starting to think twice about this, already a pain, ill post how i go might be a while, have a nice weekend guys ![]()
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Quote:
1)between turbo and intercooler - hose would have to be much smaller on one end than the other (the compressor outlet is of a much smaller diameter than the intercooler inlet). 2) the OEM intercooler inlet and outlet openings are not made to have a hose clamped on them (short/stubby openings with a large groove in them for an o-ring, as opposed to a hose barb. Also, before you get too far into this (since you are a novice), I would suggest that you read up on turbocharging basics and how those principles are applied to the 3.0 and 3.3 engines (the differences between the two and such). Last edited by Ronnie's.930; 01-09-2014 at 07:06 PM.. |
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ok give me a min
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Hi sorry its the throttle body i think ?
hose goes from small nipple there to wg, i hooked that up myself when i put in a tial 6 months ago hope its correct. So if I get hold of 3.3 uppipe 3.3 intake recirc valve assembly some hoses to join things where needed Then if i wanted to down the track reverse it for any reason it would be a wiser move by upgrading this way ![]()
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Wheels Last row 1977 3.0 930 260hp built, still reassembling Row 1998 996 MK1 3.4 296hp new daily driver |
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Crotchety Old Bastard
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If you add all 3.3L parts it should not cost too much as they are plentiful. Intercoolers go for ~$75, I have probably a half dozen or so laying around. Intakes maybe $100 with throttle body and such. BOV same ballpark. You'll want to put new gaskets in the BOV before you mount it. Don't know what you are using for a deck lid but the intercooler needs some space.
Even if you go on the cheap and use silicone hoses the problem of where to mount the sensors and BOV remain.
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RarlyL8 Motorsports / M&K Exhaust - 911/930 Exhaust Systems, Turbos, TiAL, CIS Mods/Rebuilds '78 911SC Widebody, 930 engine, 915 Tranny, K27, SC Cams, RL8 Headers & GT3 Muffler. 350whp @ 0.75bar Brian B. (256)536-9977 Service@MKExhaust Brian@RarlyL8 |
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Brando
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Btw silicone hose could work but you need to figure out how to mount solidly the Intercooler. It can't move freely with the flexable hoses.
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![]() I just got an ic from a pelican so that is sorted , i think it may be a bit of a hybrid between silicone and factory ill send you a pm later on parts for sale you may have thx Im also in the market for a 930 rear end and bits to make it how it was intended. ![]()
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