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Next time ping me before you buy crap - I think I have a bunch of spares. :)
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I installed the outer o-ring and the IC to uppipe rubber ring this morning. The difference is both noticeable and measureable: boost comes on faster, earlier and holds longer. This makes the fact that I can only get to .4 BAR boost even more annoying. The car is just getting a head of steam at that point and wants to be unleashed!
In the process, I also observed that the alignment of the IC is way off, a problem which is clearly attributable to the uppipe. I think part of the boost issue was related to the poor alignment, throwing the BPV to IC interface a few degrees off. Where the one o-ring might have held fine in perfect alignment, being slightly off kilter seemed to have done it in. In terms of the IC to uppipe interface, I don’t think there was an issue there. It was tight. On reassembly, I liberally lubed all of the o-rings with silicone grease and put it all back together so that everything seated squarely. The seals seem more positive, as well as everything slipping together more easily. Back to the IC and uppipe alignment: something just isn’t right with the current uppipe solution, which mind you, isn't ideal. We had to cut a stock uppipe and use some turbo hose with clamps to get the IC to work, but things just aren't dialed in the way they should be. As a result, the IC to (top-left) BPV bolt is so far off, even with all three of the IC bolts slack, I had to pull hard on the IC to get the IC/BPV holes to align, so that I could get the threads some purchase. I can easily see that over the longer term, this would very easily lead to the type of crack in the boss on the BPV, that required me to replace my previous one. I also think that this alignment issue is what necessitated the spacer on the BPV/Throttle body bolt. Now that I have seen it all apart, I’ll give it some thought and see what solutions come to mind. Oh, and I'll get the damned boost control solenoid figured out so I can get some bigger boost! |
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Thanks for the offers, guys! My first order of business is to bolt the IC up without the uppipe and see what it all looks like.
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^^^ Good way to start.
Way back when I installed a K27 hybrid and Garretson at the same time, between cutting & welding the turbo support bracket, clocking the turbo, experimenting with different intercooler o'ring and bushing combinations, modifying engine tin openings, and so forth, I probably had over 25 hours in fitting it (maybe more). I can't tolerate stuff that doesn't look right when installed, so part of the time was spent getting the intercooler to sit perfectly level, regardless of if it sealed when "not level" or not (talking using a bubble level, etc., like a true nut case). Then I spent over 40 hours designing and making an intercooler shroud that I could be happy with - ha ha! |
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As you've read, I've been dealing with some knock sensor silliness - turns out the Bosch knock sensors that come OEM from Porsche don't play nice with the Electromotive Tec3r.
In searching for other possibilities, I ran across a guy who makes a translator board that can produce a 5v logic level signal from a Bosch knock sensor (Thanks JPNovak). Based on the duration of the knock event, it goes from 5v to 0V for 30 to 200 ms when knock is detected. If the Tec3r can interpret this kind of signal, then it should work. To confirm this, I reached out to Electromotive. Good news: The TEC3r can use a 0-5v signal to retard timing, and the scaling is adjustable. So while the engineers are at Electromotive will continue to research if knock control can be programmed natively, the knock board from Viatrack will work! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1445892229.jpg The upshot here is that any aftermarket EMS than can retard timing using a 5V input can use this board to add knock control...cheap! Pretty cool. |
I've come to the conclusion that limiting a k27-7006 to .47 BAR is like pulling out well before you're done. It's amazing getting there, but damn if it isn't disappointing knowing all the goodness you're missing!
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An excellent yet painful metaphor.
Enjoyed reading your victories and um... Unvictories. Once you get it nailed you will get nailed. |
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Ronnie, boost issues are all resolved. The 7006 is behaving as expected, with boost taking off like a rocket in the low/mid 3Ks. I expect once I have AFR trimmed fueling from the eWUR, knock control and optimized spark curve, that will drop ~500 RPM, which will really suit the power characteristics of the cams. The car is wicked quick already, but you can tell it is just waiting to go apesheet with more boost.
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Sounds great!
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Progress, progress, progress. Car is back in the shop for 1000 mile tune up after providing me with endless sheets and giggles the last month or so. Lots of stuff already sorted, like the knock sensors. After all of the dicking around, we swapped the Bosch sensors for GM, so all should be working now. Boost control is now operation as well. Will be very interesting to see if the Leask as configured can handle .9 BAR without going lean. I've figured out how to get the frankenWUR operational on the electromotive, so that may be next. I figure that equivalent effort to tuning the Leask.
Finally got sick of my idle being impossible to manage, so am going the 3.6 964 turbo route and using a factory IACV setup. Better is just...better. In the meantime, wife commentary has led to the purchase of a rarlyl8 muffler with Zork-like outlet. Worth a shot to see if I can leave in the morning without waking the neighbors. The biggest bummer has been the back window: leaks like a friggin sieve in the rain. I'm thinking of using 3M butyl rubber caulk to try and seal up until I repaint and do it right with a new seal and new rear window (operational rear defrost, imagine that!). The other few other odds and ends getting sorted have to do with a clunk in the rear end when cornering, but we're really getting close to details now. Onward! Should be test driving on full boost next week. Pray for my soon to be corrupted soul. |
I have a huge roll of that 3M stuff.
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Just put a new seal in. Its easy compared to all the engine stuff you have already done. You certainly don't want leaks with that weather you have this time of year.
btw. Put some boost into that car already. We are tired of waiting. |
Hey Keni - we'll have to meet up some day, you are in the neighborhood!
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So again - progress. After weighing all options, I decided to do things the right way instead of cobbling $h!t together. Took off the fan and oh-so-gently, we were able to get the (prescribed by electromotive) NPT GM knock sensors in place of metric Bosch sensors, on the 993 knock bars. The sizes were close enough that tapping the threads was doable, in situ.
Here's where we're at: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1450194631.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1450194645.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1450194657.jpg Should be able to spend some time with the car configuring and tuning for knock and higher boost. Then the fun begins. |
Nice work. Sounds amazing.
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