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Smog stuff ditch. Anyone do this? What do I remove?

We don't smog in Columbus ga so it's coming off. What do I remove and how to button it back up? Not a wrench but learning.

I'm also looking to trade factory stock intercooler, turbo, wur, headers, ect for aftermarket bolt ons so if going back to stock let's talk cause I've got stock. Also have cash to buy outright

If anyone needs to smog I'll sell or trade my stuff. Hit me up. 706-392-2580. Thx. Mark

Old 11-14-2015, 11:11 AM
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Remove everything; spider, air injectors, pump. hoses, diverter valves, switches. I weighed all that junk once and was amazed. You'll need air injector plugs for the heads and rubber plugs for all the hoses. Sent you an email on the parts.
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'78 911SC Widebody, 930 engine, 915 Tranny, K27, SC Cams, RL8 Headers & GT3 Muffler. 350whp @ 0.75bar
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Old 11-14-2015, 01:48 PM
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Save that stuff, though. It's useful/necessary for those of us in Kalifornia.
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Old 11-14-2015, 04:06 PM
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I was looking at Bill Jame's diagrams showing everything that can be removed.

It is a massive amount of stuff, in fact it appears to be at least half if not more of the devices and wiring on the engine!

His note says it may be removed without affecting performance. Is that really true? Everything? Doesn't affect cold weather starting, warm up, and so on?
Old 11-15-2015, 08:24 AM
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Can u post a link or the diagram? I hope the performance is effected!! (To be better! Smog has gotta choke off and rob power).
Old 11-16-2015, 04:51 AM
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I'm located in Charlotte, NC and would be willing to trade aftermarket headers & exhaust (have several sets) for your stock units. Would also be interested in all of your emissions equipment. Could even swap the parts here at my shop. PM me your contact info if interested.
Old 11-16-2015, 05:03 AM
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My engine is a ROW with sec air injection pump. This is what I removed....



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Old 11-16-2015, 05:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vintagecarlover View Post
Can u post a link or the diagram? I hope the performance is effected!! (To be better! Smog has gotta choke off and rob power).
Yellow Relay from Hell...to finally solving the problem

You can find the diagram in numerous posts. Bill's username is billjam
Old 11-17-2015, 08:44 AM
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Id also be interested in the emissions hardware if you decide to part with it. Put me on the list.
Old 11-17-2015, 02:17 PM
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Just noticed this thread and the reference to my diagrams.
They can be downloaded from this post that Tremelune set up for us.
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Old 11-18-2015, 03:19 AM
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Bill thanks for jumping in.

I've been looking at your diagrams since you sent them to me, planning some future upgrades.

You have a TON of stuff marked as removable with the very short comment that it can be removed without affecting performance.

If I was to rip all this stuff out wholesale, what would be the effects, performance or not?

Issues with cold start? worse mileage? idling issues? anything at all?
Old 11-18-2015, 02:04 PM
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Bill and everyone. Thx for all the info/leg work done. My car as stated isn't a real 930 so keeping the smog stuff isn't important. Anyone ever sell or buy smog stuff and what's the stuff worth as a package deal? Ideas? I'd much rather trade it for some kewl go faster parts but need a starting point for value to trade. Thx and I'll post up as stuff comes off engine.
Old 11-19-2015, 12:16 PM
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Sold Smog Parts

I sold my smog parts including the cat for $500 shipped. (last year)
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1981 SC Steel Widebody Outlaw in Pacific Blue and Artic White, 930/51 to 3.2l, K27 7006 Turbo, P&P Twin Plug heads, Twinfire Ignition, BLwur, Ruf Intercooler, Powerhaus headers, Zork, CIS Euro FD, 009 injectors, DOD, DP Lid, 044 pump, 930 4 sp LSD, Mocal 44 w/fan, LM2, Brembo, Retroair, Euromeisters.
Old 11-20-2015, 05:33 AM
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The smog pump does more than most people realize. I removed the drive belt on my '78 model not long after I got it. I couldn't really tell any difference with my foot on the floor, but part throttle drivability was definitely worse.

The smog pump injects air into the exhaust causing unburnt fuel to burn. This keeps the turbo spinning faster. My boost gage starts moving about 2,000 rpm. The throttle response is better and the transition from off boost, to on, is smoother.
On a naturally aspirated car, I'd take it off if it wasn't required for smog inspections, but it really helps the turbo's.

So, I'd suggest you try it disabled, before you go to all the trouble of removing the whole system, and if yours isn't working, I think you'll find it worthwhile to repair it.

Just my 2 cents,
Jeff

Old 11-24-2015, 05:44 PM
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