meanwhile, jose is lapping all of the ancillary parts that have flat surfaces to prevent any leaks.

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about to gap the rings. all of the cylinders mic out exactly 98mm.

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just finished gapping the rings. the ring grinder is turned off in the pics as obviously i do not want to ruin a ring trying to grind while taking a pic.

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to measure the gap i had to use two feeler gauges, a 0.40mm and a 0.04mm for a total of 0.44mm per mahle.

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carrillo suggests stretching their rod bolts over torqueing.

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so i just realized a vendor did not send the new timing chains. i have the crank ready to drop in. i hope my local dealer has them on the shelf...

great thread. I'm envious of the tools you have!

What was the stretch spec of the bolts you used on the con rods and did you also get a corresponding torque value to compare with the spec sheet they supply?

the minimum tq spec was 40 which i ignore.

the stretch value for the rod bolts we used is 0.005 - 0.0065" per carrillo.

the actual tq value ended up being 55 ish ft lbs

so i had to drive to get the chains from a local supply house today. i just got done getting everything ready to carry on. i like to lay everything out and wash each part as i install them.

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i just realized my helper laid the blue orings out that are in the picture. i do not use the blue orings, but in fact go with the viton orings and dc molykote 55.

Loving this build.

Nice to see your great attention to detail. Thanks for this great post - really enjoying it.

Master class is in session!

sorry keeping this updated is as much or more time than blueprinting an engine! plus i am in the middle of 2 other restorations on a 964 c4 and 72 911 rsr extra widebody. :cool:

thx!

i can not say that the rest of the shop is as organized as the engine room, but somehow i know where everything is!

such a compliment! i simply try to build every car as if i am going to keep it till my last day.

so i am using the old original headsutds for my dry run to check clearances. i thought to do it both the old school way with modeling clay fully assembled and then take it down to the short block then pull the valve springs and show you the more accurate and faster way.

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once the short block is together i assemble each piston into it's respective cylinder. i find this is so much easier to do than trying to install the pistons in the cylinders on the eng, although when i do 996/997/991 i install them in the cylinders already on the engine.

be sure you put the top ring on top with the writing facing up, the second ring has a M and the oil ring is last. they are all 90* apart with the oil gap at the top.

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sorry i got a phone call last night then took off for the day.