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Join Date: Jan 2005
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Porsche Crest Timing Chain Cover Questions

I am in the process of installing timing chain cover gaskets on my 70 911T w/ original 2.2L motor.

The previous owner upgraded to Carrera tensioners but neglected to use gaskets leading to leaks.

Based on Waynes rebuild book I am not using sealer just a gasket with both surfaces cleaned up and dry.

Is this approach correct ?

I have run into different opinons on this topic

Also what should I torque the timing chain cover banjo bolts (hydraulic feed line to tensioner) too ?


I have searched for this info on the bbs without much luck.

Thanks in advance.

Jon
Old 04-28-2005, 07:00 AM
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I've just finished up a top end rebuild on my 3.0 SC and I had the same question. I looked in Wayne's book and a few other sources, and the best I came up with was that the gasket goes on dry. Its still early, but I've had no leaks from the covers.

T.
Old 04-28-2005, 02:36 PM
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I also installed my cover dry. Torque spec for the banjo bolt is 7.4 ft. lbs. Did you use aluminum sealing washers for this joint?
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Old 04-28-2005, 05:02 PM
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I installed mine dry as well and most professional engine builders that I know do so as well.

Just make sure that the chain housing covers have a nice, flat surface and aren't warped, similar to how you would prep valve covers.

Ralph
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Old 04-28-2005, 06:05 PM
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I'll throw in my two cents worth for no gasket goo as well.

I installed my chain cover gaskets dry. Installed all the nuts finger tight, then tightened to spec in a pattern just like you would with head bolts. No drips, no runs, no errors!

JB
Old 05-01-2005, 07:13 PM
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Thanks for all the tips. The torque value for the banjo bolt is hard to find.

Jon
Old 05-02-2005, 06:16 AM
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I'll be the devil's advocate here.

When I did my chain box cover gaskets, I sprayed them with Permatex copper gasket sealant

Permatex Gasket Sealants

Figured it'd help prevent deterioration of the gaskets over the long term. I only used the copper stuff because that's what the store had in stock. Otherwise I would have used the standard stuff.

The torque value for the banjo bolt is more by feel than torque spec. number. Simply tighten the bolt until you feel it contact the sealing washer(s). Then another 1/4 turn of the wrench is plenty. Any more tight and you're just unnecessarily crushing the sealing washer.
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Last edited by KTL; 05-02-2005 at 11:50 AM..
Old 05-02-2005, 11:47 AM
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