New 930 4speed gearbox parts
 

Here's some pics of the parts needed to refurb & upgrade the 930's gearboxSmileWavyhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1312810778.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1312810796.jpg
I've got a pro doing this for me cuz I don't have the knowledge or tools and he has plenty of both:p

Homemade M8x1.25 thread chaser
 

Needed to clean out some cam tower threads. If you don't have a collet stud holder you may wanna consider chasing down the Snap on van cuz it's one of the best tools I ownSmileWavyhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1312899428.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1312899442.jpg

Captain,

Do y0u have a part number for that cool tool? Collets I have that tool I do not.

Snap-On collet housing part#
 

Sure, it's part# CG500-2: CG500-2, Housing (For CG500 Series Collets)

The collets I have are M10x1.5 for head studs part# CG500-43 and part# CG500-37 for M8x1.25 collet for most engine studs

Looking good Rick. Glad to hear you got an expert on the tranny, even a four speed can be quite the jigsaw puzzle to put back together.

Have you already put the squirter rods back in the cam towers? If so were they hard to get back in?

Here are a couple of video updates on my progress of spending my porsche bucks, lol. ;)

CAD/CAM work for a heat exchanger component:
CAD/CAM Demo - Gas Tube Core - YouTube

CAD/CAM work on an art related birthday gift for my daughter:
My First CNC Artwork - YouTube

Those are some cool vids...you should be a teacher! Your daughter will love the kittys!

I've got the 4 plugs ready to go, but haven't put the 2 squirters in the cam towers yet. What would you use to glue those plugs in there, triplebond 1104 or Locktite 574? I used the orange locktite 574 on the towers to the heads but it never seems to dry:(

Thanks,
RC

There is a pin on the oil fitting that keeps the rod oriented, so any good anerobic sealant to plug the gaps between the rods and towers should do the trick.

The stuff that oozes out shouldn't harden since it remains exposed to air, but if you were to take your towers back off you should find that the areas in between the contact surfaces have hardened.

I know you still have quite a bit of work ahead of you, but have you decided on what turbo you are going to put on there?

Turbo choice
 

Thanks for the sealant info...that makes me feel better about themSmileWavy

Yes, I have made the turbo choice and here's a hint as to what it's gonna be:)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1313601952.jpg

Garrett GT3578R
 

here it is: Garrett GT3582R Twin Scroll Turbo - Full-Race.com

Whattcha think? Could there be 500 Hp hiding in it???

Good choice, I had been thinking about that one as well. If memory serves me correctly the cartridge might need to be tweaked since I think that unit is water cooled.

Yep, funny thing about water cooling is I can't find the H2O radiator on this carSmileWavy

I'm also considering this Borg too, so let me know what you think!
BorgWarner S300SX 8375 Turbo S360 - Full-Race.com

Turbo
 

After much debate I finally narrowed my search down to just two that were both great fits on a twinscroll 500hp EFI 930. The two that were listed above are the Garrett GT3582R and the BorgWarner S300SX 83-75.

The BW won me over due to it's dependable journal brg with oil only cooling setup. The fact that it can make up to 310 ft-lb of torque at 2000 rpms and 5 psi of boost helped me with my decision as well as the potential to make 487 ft-lbs at 4000 rpm at 15 psi of boost...hope I can keep it between the ditches:eek:http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1313720119.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1313720141.jpg

Sounds like a good choice, I'm a big believer in a mid sized turbo on a street motor since there you need that low and mid range grunt more than top end power and max flow.

I do hope you can keep that thing headed towards where its approximately pointed at once its back on line. That's the kind of power to weight ratio that can easily get you into all sorts of trouple, lol.

It's the rush of adrenaline that occurs while trying to keep it going in a straight line that make it all worthwhile:)

930 gearbox progress
 

pic from the the dark side:)
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1313810843.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1313810864.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1313810892.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1313810917.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1313810944.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1313810967.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1313810989.jpg

Chain Housings
 

Today I bolted the two chain housings to the case.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1313860882.jpg

Galley Plugs Needed
 

Anybody know where I can source 4 galley plugs that I think are M10x1.0???

I ordered the 4 oem splash tube plugs for the cam tower, but once they arrived I realized that the holes had already been tapped, so I gotta find some plugsSmileWavy
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1313892201.jpg

Glad to see you got your hands on a R&P alignment tool. I hope that's the new lower ratio andial unit I spent over $1,200 going in there.

I could be wrong, but I thought I had a set of hollow hex plugs for those galleys in one of those boxes of fasteners I gave ya.

PS - Before you fasten down the cam chain boxes for good, you may need to epoxy the back sides of the tensioner hardware pins. They are likely to leak through the press fit if you don't.

True, the origonal epoxy blobs on the back side of the chain case sometimes delaminate and have little cracks from time and heat cycles that are hard to see and could eventually seep oil slowly over time so you should scrape or sand them off and reseal them with regular slow curing JB Weld epoxy spread over them.

Don't make the epoxy blobs too thick or they will contact the cooling fins on the #1 and 4 cylinders and that would hold back the chain case from seating flush against the engine case on the back side.

The mounting pins for the chain rails are also pressed into holes in the chain case and you can spread a little JB Weld over them to seal them from ever seeping oil too. Probably don't need to do those but it doesn't hurt.