The Beautiful Puzzle: 1987 3.3L 930 EFI Build

[CaptainCalf]

The x-dash went in last night.

[CaptainCalf]

Can anybody tell me where this wire bolts up on the motor or gearbox? It's heavy gauge and looks like a ground wire and it's located in the right (passenger side) rear engine bay.

[911 tweaks]

wire either goes to the body ground stud just outside the tunnel hole OR to the engine starter...I am not sure which though...I hope I got you closer... :-)

[JFairman]

Looks like one of the starter motor cables. If no battery is connected an ohmeter will tell if it's a ground cable.

[CaptainCalf]

Originally Posted by JFairman

Looks like one of the starter motor cables. If no battery is connected an ohmeter will tell if it's a ground cable.

Thanks, sometimes the simplest tests are the best

[CaptainCalf]

Got a lot done today; motor installed, clutch & throttle adjusted and 8 qts of oil poured in. Once I sort the starter I'll turn it over to see if I can get oil pressure

[350HP930]

Awesome progress Rick!

I'm glad to see the electronic display is going next to and not replacing all the analog gauges.

[CaptainCalf]

Starter wired and muffler mounted. Fresh air intake next then fire in the hole

[CaptainCalf]

Rolled the motor over with the starter w/o spark or fuel and got good oil pressure at the cam towers. However, I didn't fire it up cuz I have a leak on the motor around the oil cooler area, so gotta chase that down 1st. Just glad there's only 1 leak

[CaptainCalf]

The motor mounted thermostat failed and filled the motor mounted oil cooler with cold Joe Gibbs BR and popped it like a zit! I don't know how you guys feel about this cooler, but I think it's a weak link and plan to add a 3.6L/993 filter console there instead.

I will need an oil inlet adapter, so please show me some ideas

Here's an example of the Smart Racing Kit looks like:

[CaptainCalf]

All the parts for the filter console conversion have been ordered and here's what the thermo looks like after I gutted it for use with the 3.6 filter console. The internals were bad rusted and had to be cut out...

[911 tweaks]

maybe I missed it but what is the next project...?? Porsche I hope...:-)

[CaptainCalf]

Originally Posted by 911 tweaks

maybe I missed it but what is the next project...?? Porsche I hope...:-)

Well it's kinda Porsche themed

I looked for a 356 to Outlaw and they are hard to find, so I decided to build a custom bike instead using the old Martini colors off Moby Dick

The donor bike is a generic 1999 Harley Davidson 1200C Sportster:


Here's what the old school peanut tank looks like on it:


Shooting for double the stock power output with STG2 flowed heads, bigger PCs, HC pistons, cams, carb, etc:

[CaptainCalf]

Happy Cinco De Mayo!

Added locking fasteners to my CVs so there wont be an issues with bolts backing out...

[j911brick]

Originally Posted by CaptainCalf

Happy Cinco De Mayo!

Added locking fasteners to my CVs so there wont be an issues with bolts backing out...

Great idea! Who makes the kit?

[CaptainCalf]

World's Best Locking Fasteners & Locking Nuts and Bolts STAGE 8

[CaptainCalf]

Stage8.com

[CaptainCalf]

Electronic dash lit!!!


I used the new DTAFast CPU to prime/run the fuel pumps and found leak. Guess where...yep back side of motor, but I got it sorted, so as soon as I get the filter console I can fire it up

Anybody wanna give me their brake-in insights?

I'm planning to run it for a minute initially to make sure I don't have any more leaks, then do some pulls (accels & decels up to 5K rpm) to seat the rings and run in the cams.

[911 tweaks]

maybe different for a turbo motor, but, many have posted here on Pelican that to break in a new rebuilt porsche motor to do the following:
1. do as you have to start and/or turn key to hot to check for leaks on oil & gas...
2. prime oil system by cranking car w/o fuel pump running...when see oil pressure on gage @ ~1-2 bar = she is primed...
3. fresh gas in tank & oil tank filled w/ ~ 10 qts or what your system takes...
4. start motor & run for 20 min @ 2500 rpm to break in cams...
5. then take car for drive...do not exceed 5k rpms' for 1st 100 miles...accelerate up hills & when coming down hill, have foot OFF accelerator so engine is working like a brake = this puts opposite pressure on rings vs accelerating...
6. check oil level @ tank frequently = like every 25 miles to make sure a possible leak did not develope & empty your system...
7. extend your boundries more & more as confidence increases...
8. *** carry spare tools with you = plyers, screw drivers, combo wrench set, duct tape, 3 bottles of oil, ect...just in case...spare rags & towle, flash lite...

Grin more & more as time goes by w/o issues... :-)

Enjoy...& take pics on the road...maybe a sound clip or 2 to post up...we are dying to hear that turbo spool up... : )

[JFairman]

I don't remember if you put in new cams or not. If the cams are new idleing right away is not good, instead you want to hold it at 2000rpm or right around there for about 20 minutes.
When I put in new cams and rockers I would have pissed off the neighbors too much doing that in the driveway so I drove it and kept the rpms right around 2000 heading for I-95. Out on the interstate it's easy to keep it at 2000rpm in 4th gear.

After that you can do accelerations and decelerations below 5000rpm like you said but I wouldn't get into boost any higher than .3 to .5 bar right away. You want to change rpms and gears alot after the initial 20 minute cam run in.

If the cost of oil isn't an issue I'd change the oil and filter after the first 2-3 hours of running. When you look closely at the used breakin oil in sunlight you'll probably see some superfine metal dust sparkling in it.

Most of all, good luck with it and enjoy!