Don't bother with WD40, it's an overpriced waste of time.

This is wayyyyyyy way better: CorrosionX

Some CorrosionX sprayed on to the magnesium 930 pancake intake manifold (if you're using that), fan housing, and fan will make the white powdery corrosion disappear if you are leaving them bare like the factory. The magnesium cleans up and darkens down and looks real nice for a long time.
Let it soak for a while and then wipe off the excess with a dry rag. A real thin film will remain and protect the metal keeping it from corroding.

It's popular with boat owners so you can usually find it at marine hardware stores.
Google or Amazon.com will always find it for you too.
Google

That looks like the magic finish I was looking for!
ThanksSmileWavy

I'll 2nd the CorrosionX and also Rejex - use both on the car and the boat all the time.

TA Mahoney on 60 carries both

Thanks, I like going in there...just another toy store:D

How about Lear Chemical's Corrosion Block? Anybody ever compare that to either Rejex or CorrosionX? I've used Corrosion Block for years on MTB chains and motorcycles and works great...

Thanks,
RC

Hey Rick, I've finally completed spending the investment you made into my former baby.

Garage is a hell of a lot cleaner since the last time you were around as well.

The 930's racing tropies make a nice backdrop for my controller desk too, lol.

http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/...0/Setup079.jpg

http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/...0/Setup075.jpg

http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/...0/Setup073.jpg

http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/...0/Setup074.jpg

Sweet looking mill and that can't be the same garage;)

Who makes these headers?
 

Tony, are these OBX?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1308311031.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1308311053.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1308311072.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1308311094.jpg

Dang Tony - what you going to be making???

Rick, I can no longer remember who manufactured them, hopefully they might have some markings on them somewhere to identify the manufacturer. I bought them online from a guy who caught the twin turbo bug after he had already purchased this set.

And as far as my own manufacturing project goes, I'm working on designing and manufacturing some small turbines and stirling engines for the purposes of waste heat recovery and power generation. Between burning waste cooking oil and building a solar concentrator I hope to eliminate my power bill in the next year or so and possibly even get a check instead of a bill as I turn up the capacity. If my personal use prototypes work well I'm hoping to move on to creating a production unit in the several killowatt range so that a business like a large restaraunt or any facility with a small furnace could recover a portion of their waste heat energy stream.

New Front Wheel Brgs & Races
 

these front wheel brg races don't look that bad for 24 years old...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1308853301.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1308853312.jpg

brgs.
 

Sadly the new ones won't be as good
Mike

True, these babies came out w/o a scratch on them...tougher then nails and they don't make anything like they used to, but we'll make the most of what we gots to work with:rolleyes:

Captain,

Send them out for Cryro and you will not be mad....

I'm a big fan of cryo for new or limited use parts since the process is great for aligning the molecular structure which results in increased strength and lifetimes.

For an item like that bearing which has already had a long lifetime of what's referred to "cold working", I've already done the molecular alignment for you so cryo would be pretty much useless at this point for an item like that, lol. ;)

Work hardening - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

You guys are certainly right that they don't make them like they used to. It would be interesting to do a metalurgical analysis between a top quality bearing like that from the 80s compared to the best bearing you could try to buy today.

As long as you pack them well and properly tighten them, they might last as long as the car will, lol.

I'll make sure they are packed right cuz I like playing in grease. When I was a kid we couldn't afford play doah, but there was always a can of grease around:)
RC

LOL, one of the advantages of growing up around an automotive machine shop was being assigned all the grunt work like bearing packing when I was still too young to trust to do much else.

BTW Rick, it appears your thread is already the most most read thread on the engine rebuilding forum, right behind the stickies of course, and you haven't even bolted your case halfs together yet, lol.

LOL, cases should meet today as long as I can get to it before the beer gets to me:rolleyes:

I am skeptical as to how any benefits from low-temperature allotropic crystal structure transformations can be retained when the part will be brought back to room temperature and held there. The crystal structure will change back since there is more energy, not less, as in heat treatment of steel. It seems this would be similar to annealing to relieve strain in the crystal lattice due to work hardening dislocation movement?

After 5 long years the cases meet again:)
 

If you ever watched a stupid chick flick with your wifie you know how it is when two hard cases come back together after 5 years apart...it's like magic:p
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1308959587.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1308959595.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1308959603.jpg

more progress this weekend
 

slugs installed in holes and holes & tins installed on short block...this is starting to look like a motor!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1309134997.jpg