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I know well that the ceramic surface treatment will not remain eternally so clean, but I don't mind because I wish especially the thermal efficiency to contain at best the heat of the exhaust. The company does not make the covering of the internal surfaces of the engine. A link if you wish to follow the evolution of my body and my inside. https://www.facebook.com/pages/9-One-One-Motorsport/342673192496116?fref=pb&hc_location=profile_browse r Good luck for the continuation of your repairs, you are almost at the end of the tunnel! ;) Sorry for the link, he does not display. |
Thanks for the link mate, I'll check-in regularly and augment my uni-lingualality with Google Translate!! Some lovely looking toys being document there ;)
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Mid-week(ish) update....
The AC fittings are now welded, collected on Saturday and leak tested. A fine job of welding, very neat indeed. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...566EBC6B2E.jpg Some time spent filing the backs, where the bungs have been welded in, and radiusing the edges has made them look a lot more presentable. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...559BEB226F.jpg Offering them up onto the pump, then running the hoses into the ferrules, and I reckon that's a really neat piece of routing... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...C9F698E36E.jpg Doesn't interfere with anything, and more importantly, it clears all of the engine lid structure. In retrospect, this wouldn't have been the case had I bought the adapters shown a few months ago, then used SAE threaded couplings on a 90º elbow. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...11ACF1468E.jpg Fittings are now over with the plating shop along with another large bag of M6 fittings; I've had an attack of the "OCD's"...John, stop sniggering....I thought it'd look a little better if I replaced all the BZP caphead screws that are on the top side of the engine, (holding the sensors, sensor brackets, IC mounts, etc), with capheads that have been gold passivate coated....i.e., per the factory stock fixings. Talk about making work for myself, but I'll now sleep oh-so-well knowing this has been done. At the other end of the technology spectrum, I'd been chatting over with Steve about doing a remote healthcheck of the engine before I venture out onto the highway. My suggestion was to use a remote desktop application, but the version of Windows 7 on my ECU tablet is only Home Premium, so can't be controlled remotely using the native s/w (without hacking, anyway). So, Plan B, I downloaded TeamViewer onto my Mac (running Parallels and an instance of WinXP), as well as installing it onto the tablet (Win7)...testing on my home LAN, and it seemed to work brilliantly....no messing about opening ports or finding WAN IP addresses, just a case of entering a session ID and a password, and within seconds you can take control. You don't even have to install it, it can be run as a one-time app. So, some after-hours experimenting with Craig up at SBD HQ this evening, and within 20secs he had control of my ECU....soooo easy, and very snappy in terms of response (apparently). A 17Mbps up/53Mbps down broadband connection helps, of course ;) First thing he noticed was that my version of Easimap v6 was pretty old....second thing was that my map template for the 9A9 ECU was mismatched to the code level inside the ECU itself....oops. I had seen some strange behaviour, particularly with fuel pressure readings not displaying as expected. Lo-and-behold, with everything now upgraded, correct templates and chipfiles re-imported, it all works as I would've hoped....my bad, lesson for future, keep everything updated. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...998F644A8C.jpg Not a lot else going on really, just tinkering with inner arches and sill (rocker) trims. The gap between the sharks-fin and the rocker on the RHS is different (larger) than that of the LHS. It's driving me nuts....everything lines up, all the studs underneath the car are in dead-centre of the slots on the bodywork, the white plastic clips align perfectly to the red sockets in the chassis...everything looks fine, but the gap is about 10mm vs approx 4mm on the other side....grrrr. May have to live with it, there's no latitude for sliding it back, nor the shark-fin forward, everything is now right up against the arch return lips. Maybe, being handbuilt, they're all like that to some degree? (all bodywork gaps are perfect, door>front wing, door>rear quarter, front wing>frunk lid) Next job is to get the AC lines back up to Burgaflex for swaging, once the plating shop are done with them. After that, all the intake assembly can go back in. I'm itching to fit it now, but I know it'll just make fitting the AC an absolute sweary nightmare. |
A great while listening to the latest instalment of Radio Le Mans Midweek Motorsport; always an amusing listen for a couple of hours whilst spannering.
A lunchtime raid over to the plating shop was an unexpected bonus; all parts dropped off late on Monday were finished and ready to collect.... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...376D80E838.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...7983FC21AF.jpg The new bracket that mounts on the back of the power steering pump to fasten the AC hose retaining clip onto...now mounted onto the pump and ready to go. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...13F559745F.jpg The hoses for the AC were all prepared the other day, so time to quickly box them up and get them shipped up to Burgaflex; all clearly labelled in terms of indexing marks and positions of the ferrules. Fingers crossed, it'll all come back with the fitting in the correct location. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...E12DD03AC1.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...0AAA2041C7.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...5E779DC008.jpg This evening, time to sate my OCD and swap over the BZP fittings for the newly coloured capheads and washers. Nice easy job, albeit some things are now really tight to get to. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...77F3789A55.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...7015AB1BD8.jpg The oil-air separator tank is now fully connected to the 2x M30 breather hoses, and the oil tank breather now tightened onto the inlet to the separator tank. The outlet hose isn't yet connected to the silicon T hose on the inlet, see yesterdays comment about keeping that area free until the AC lines are back. Right, it's late, time to call it a night. |
Grr, well that's annoying....thanks to an OSX kernel panic, I've just lost tonights writeup....time to start again. Thanks Apple.
Good progress this weekend. I went up to my pal Shauns workplace to collect the rear bumper and headlamp rims, then spent the rest of yesterday working in the back garden, building it all back up again in the glorious summer sun. Surprising how long a job this is, bearing in mind that the structural part was already done....but getting the correct fit on the rivets, positioning of all the parts and brackets, etc really does take some time. 'Scuse the dust... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...5705C17E66.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...D2E34B8DFF.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...5E41E95578.jpg The three elements assembled, this time without the over-complicated daft-arse M5 fixings at the top of the shell (the one's that always rust together and can't be undone without grinding....which then melts the plastic if not done very carefully (slowly). http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...AD9ED9888C.jpg Rear numberplate lamps installed, along with it's identity! http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...74DF9C5360.jpg There's a strengthening strip that runs along the bottom of the shell; this was then riveted on, then the shell married to the beam with more rivets on the top-side. The factory "heatshield" for the turbo was a job I've been meaning to get around to for a while. Using new bracketry and clips (there's a pair of brackets that hold the bottom of the outer bumper shell to the structural beam. Onto the LH bracket is mounted the rudimentary bent piece of aluminium), I had just enough of an off-cut of the proper heatshielding material I used a few months ago, to insulate the engine from the turbo/silencer. This time it's a fair bit larger L>R and still plenty of clearance around the GT35R.... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...865C3AC31B.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...4A8FE55A8F.jpg That was it for yesterday..... |
Todays job was to repair the LH and RH flanking heatshields that install either side of the beam and main heat reflector. 18yrs of use have taken their toll on the thin ally mounting holes, where they're now extremely brittle or non-existent.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...328FF98A45.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...CDB2B84151.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...92EC4EF50F.jpg ...so, some digging around in the offcuts bin, and I found a nice thin gauge section of ally to then make some repair sections with (and yes, if I wasn't now trying to control costs, I'd be buying new, but you just know these are going to be damn expensive)... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...017D729C15.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...BB2608A84F.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...0741B6F50F.jpg While the epoxy was setting on the heatshields, time to install the reinforcement ribs that run on the underside of the top edge. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...08922F7483.jpg When I was sorting out the fixings, I saw the fibre washers and thought it was a bodged installation at some point in the cars life, as there's no mention of these parts in the PET. However, when reassembling, it's pretty obvious that they are required to avoid distorting the plastic when riveting the strips in place. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...B6ABECFE30.jpg |
A quick install of the shields to mark hole positions, then time to fit them permanently with another couple of rivets along the top edge....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...B92DF12669.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...8A7F93553D.jpg At this point, I confess to getting a little antsy about the colour match to the bodywork! A lot of work to undo if it's not correct. Finally, time to enlist the help of my mate Ian, carefully carrying it through the house, workshop and garage....not the time to be tripping over the (far too untidy) skunkwerks. And it's on!! NOW I feel like I've got my 964 back! And the colourmatch is perfect (knew it would be ;) ) Exhaust pipes aren't aligned yet, but one thing I did notice is that one pipe sticks out further than the other. I know why - it's to do with the angle of mounting of the turbo unit, which in turn has thrown the angle of the silencer relative to the back of the engine - perhaps only 1-2º, but over the length of those tailpipes, it's now about 10-15mm different in protrusion. Thankfully, they're both really easy to remove, so I'll have a final measure, then get Pete to wave his magic TIG wand over it. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...C8D5764FC7.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...3B2D0F852A.jpg Now that the bumper's back in place, I can also start planning how I want those screamer pipes to be positioned (don't forget, these were only welded up in order to get the engine on the dyno - they're not staying like this). Whether I go for something that's very short, 90º and about 2" long pointed downwards, or whether I try and do something to bring them out near the tailpipes, I don't know yet. Tempted to keep is cleaner and simpler and just have stubbies, otherwise I'll then have to consider how to secure the screamers, get some more material bent up, etc....I think I've just convinced myself.... After an hour or so spent clearing the decks a little (I hate working in a mess, but seem to do so all too frequently), I had a quick play with aligning everything and fixing the LH and RH corners to the rear quarters and to the bumper support structure. It wasn't exactly jumping into place, so time to call it a day - it's bloody hot here again today (no, not by AZ standard Chris!) and frankly a beer and the Indy MotoGP is a well deserved bit of R&R. |
Evening folks, another major item is now officially off of the To-Do list!
The AC lines arrived back from Burgaflex up in the north of England. I confess to being pleasantly surprised when Robert emailed me at 7.30 yesterday evening, letting me know that they had been assembled and shipped that day on an overnight courier. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...CB8DE7F9DD.jpg The connections onto the "Z" pipes; looks to be some welded on swage fittings, very neat job... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...528350A0BB.jpg I've been in London all day today, and have got a very early start tomorrow, with a chunk of work to get done between now and then....so....only a very quick play in the garage this evening, but enough time to get them installed. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...C4C15ACCD5.jpg They're absolutely spot-on....no twisting on the hoses, no persuading of anything, they just fitted straight in, as planned. The hoses are now fixed to the rear bulkhead, routed behind all the engine breathers and over the PS pump, through the new retaining clip/bracket and onto the pump. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...6AC69ED350.jpg It all looks so damn simple in hindsight, but it really is one of those jobs that's been niggling me for a couple of years, things like how to route the pipes, will it foul anything else?, can I source the connections?, can I find somebody in the UK to actually make them?, what if "this?, what if "that"? And of course, you have to work sequentially on this, it's no good going at it like a bull in a china shop, everything else has to be in place and finalised before committing to an idea. And now it's done. Finished. Once the fire extinguisher lines are run, the intake system can then go back on and the intercooler installed. That's then the engine bay finished. Right, back to work for me... |
This is one of those things that will make the cognoscenti go "What?" when they look in the engine compartment. It looks so perfect, so Factory, like it came that way, but in fact represents one heck of a lot of thinking, planning, and execution.
Making the difficult look easy. . . the hallmark of true professionals. Carry on! |
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You work great well Spencer, I adore!!!
I have a question, you is hampered(bothered) by the tube to open the cork of yellow oil? |
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I do, however, consider myself a professional spend-thrift!! Friends and colleagues are now starting to ask how much I'm in this project for....and frankly it's more than I bought my first house for....just for this project, not including the car itself. That gets a little embarrassing to be honest, it's only us crazy few that understand the financial and emotional commitment to "the cause". |
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Yeah, it's not a problem at all - most certainly something I was careful to consider when re-making the Denso connections. It's very comfortable in terms of being able to remove the filler cap and then getting a funnel into the neck of the filler tube.... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...57348C7D0B.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...781FCF408B.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...2B3F7CE5CC.jpg |
A quick lunchtime update....
The AC lines are now in, and I had the cunning idea to secure them to one of the 3 studs on the rear firewall using the same tether ties that the wiring loom is secured with around the engine bay (the ones that push onto the threaded studs and have holes along their length to determine their fit). Up until now, 3 x plastic buttons to secure the sound pad was a tad excessive, so this was a great way to get them tight to the bulkhead and clear from the air filter. The filter was then sprayed with the dust retention oil and thoroughly worked into the foam cells. The only way to squeeze this into the back of the engine bay is to undo the pressure take-off line that runs to the sender for the OBC boost gauge....easy enough, and allows the cold charge pipe to be swung out of the way. Filter now installed and tightened into position.....everything fits like a glove, nothing fouls the filter so there should be no airflow restrictions. Can't quite believe it....with the new hoses that weren't originally planned for (the oil tank breather) and the AC lines now in place, nothing is in the way, and it all remains serviceable....quite chuffed with myself! http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...24DE1178AC.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...0F8456895B.jpg The intercooler is now back in place, although final mounting cant be done until I receive some stainless P-clips to retain the oil and fuel pressure senders. Engine bay is tantalisingly close to being finished.... |
Bravo Spencer! :D
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And it will be a very fast house indeed. |
Haha, indeed!!
And even with the property market over here being pretty good, in terms of appreciating assets, it's still being outpaced by air-cooled Porsches!! Right, that does it...off to sell one of my bedrooms to finish the project... |
General Update
Post vacation progress update time....
Some re-alignment and tightening work on the brackets for the intercooler, specifically now making sure the hot charge pipe is in the right place and tightened. The rear cold charge pipe alignment continues to irritate despite me trying a few months ago (or maybe even a year ago now?) to shim the mounting plate to bring the IC height inline with the flange on he cold pipe....I guess by reworking that rear mounting that was shimmed - to accommodate the breather tank - something subtle has happened and it's not lining up again. I can see it's not going to be long before I either rework the pipe to put a second quick-release coupling in the longest length, thus allowing for some compound misalignment, or just chop the charge pipe, flare both ends and use a silicon joiner hose. Having to wrestle the whole thing each time kind of defeats the object of QR couplings! Of course, this is NOT a problem with the TK IC, this is purely down to keeping everything so tightly locked into place when fabricating the charge pipes in-situ...which is tricky, as it has to be done without the O-Rings in place, and it's that 1-2mm of play that's now hindering fitment. (Chris - I have one of my cunning ideas on this - I'll buzz you at some point and run it past you?) Okay...next update, the interior carpets are now glued back into place again. These had to be carefully lifted to allow me to remove the engine harness for the dyno. Easy job and now done, along with rear seats, parcel shelf and seatbelts being refitted. Next job on this [broken record mode=on] is to install extinguisher tubing inside the centre console trim. Have made good progress on the installation of the traction control and variable boost controls. If you remember, I'm re-purposing a Carrera 4 panel so that it looks bone-stock. I made a lot of the adapter rings up a good while ago, but with the Raychem boots on the back of the switches, the plan looked to be out of the window. I made some rings that were a snug fit over the OD of the rotary switches, and a snug fit on the ID of the white plastic tubes that are part of the C4 panel assembly, however, the heatshrink boots were glued over the OD of the switches. At this point I thought I was going to have to permanently bond the switches into the tubes; far from ideal. With some careful cutting (God the Raychem boots are hard!...no fear of anything penetrating them!), I've now exposed enough of the switch body. The plastic adapter rings are now bonded onto the switches.... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...E41864CC17.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...19F25EBAD2.jpg ....and are a perfect fit inside the tubes..... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...C38836F107.jpg The spindles of the switches are the perfect length to mate into the adapters that the switch knobs fit onto, albeit I'm re-using one of the 3x holes that are usually loaded with a ballbearing and spring. An M5 tap and a grub screw will ensure that these spindle adapters are locked onto the flat of the spindle itself. All that needs to be done is seat the switches to the correct depth and lock the spindle adapters, then orientate the switches in the plastic tubes, to make sure the knobs align to the legends on the panel. Easy! http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...6C995E6108.jpg Following that, on the same harness is the output from the ECU for a shift light (although I'm pretty sure I wont need/want this) and then signal feed from the Stack boost gauge, which we built into the engine loom for neatness. So, once that's connected I just need to route a +Ve and Gnd feed to the gauge itself, and it can be installed permanently. Back onto the chassis, more parts which I ordered before going on holiday have arrived....completely unremarkable apart from the total price of >£270! http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...2DC1BBA79C.jpg Back when I was on motorbikes, there was a theory that said Japanese bike plastic was more expensive (gram for gram) than gold....I'm pretty sure German plastic and fasteners aren't far off either! Anyway, the correct gearbox cover is now here, no snapped tangs or mounting brackets. Wheel centre trims - argghh - nothing is bloody easy on this car. They should be a slam-dunk easy part to order and fit, yes? Nope. The fronts snap into place fine but the rear ones won't seat correctly....clearly a different spigot dimension, as when I checked my German copy of the PET (rather than the US one), it has additional descriptions for "M402" and "M403"....16" and 17" Cup Wheels respectively. Although that then begs another question....they never fitted 16" Cups onto the Turbo, so why would there be a "Turbo" inscribed centre cap for a 16" wheel? God knows. Got grumpy last night and went and watched TV. I'll remove a rear wheel later and have a look from the inside. A/C O-rings are also wrong, FFS. That's another job I cant quite cross off the list. Before going on hols, I received a metre length of black single ply ducting hose, for the front bumper ducts. I'll take pics later, but again, was disappointed to find that instead of receiving the 85mm ID hose I ordered (yes, the same "hose prats" that have cocked up every order so far...), I got 80mm....not even the more common 83mm. Was about to maul somebody over the phone but thought I'd try it anyway, gently reshaping into an oval and pushing it over the duct outlet....lo-and-behold, I reckon I can make it work ;) Just need the rain to abate for a few hours one evening so I can pull the front PU off and try a few things. A job I've been avoiding for a few weeks is to bleed the clutch slave cylinder. Potentially easy to do with the car in the air and me underneath, manipulating the slave cylinder bleed, but it needs to have somebody in the cabin pumping the pedal - not something I really want to do in terms of unbalancing the car lift with me underneath....I'm sure it would be fine....but.... I've had pretty good success with a Gunsons Easi-Bleed rig before. These are a pressure bleeding system that uses an inflated car tyre as the pressure source. It's ok, apart from making sure there's not too much pressure, and then pumping up the tyre every few minutes. The reservoir bottle is also quite small and drains quickly, so doing this with the car hoisted is possible but not ideal. Time to invest in a proper pressure bleed rig, a Sealey V820, only £40 on eBay, should arrive today. I was also mulling over the idea of making a remote bleed hose to bring the bleed nipple out to an inner arch or engine bay...probably the former, as I don't want yet more paraphernalia in with the engine. I'll put a call into Think Auto and see what we can do; I'm sure I have a spare length of -3AN hose somewhere..... |
Hub Nuts
Had a (hopefully) good result with sourcing a torque multiplier; I think I mentioned a week or so ago, that I snapped the knuckle on a 2ft breaker bar in the process of trying to undo the front hub nuts? Even with a neighbour weighing on a 3ft x 3/4" drive bar, it wasn't budging (they're done up to 460Nm).
So, I was about to buy a Sealey multiplier - mid-range quality but in fairness, that's fine for a tool I only need once in a blue-moon. I got as far as the checkout then thought I'd give eBay another shot for a Snap On tool; I missed out on one the week before, and was a little surprised to find the next model up in the Snap On range with no bids. New with just a few storage marks. Long story short, it'll be on it's way on Friday when the vendor returns home, suffice to say it's the GA-185 2,000lb/ft rated model....3/4" input and 1" output. http://public.snapon.com/R_RRD/ItemD...ges/GA184A.jpg In addition, the vendor also offered me a VERY good price on a new L872 ratchet head and handle.. http://public.snapon.com/R_RRD/ItemD...mages/L872.jpg http://public.snapon.com/R_RRD/ItemD...ages/L872H.jpg ...600lb/ft rating (!), same 25" length as the multiplier....all for £50 more than I would've spent on the Sealey multiplier alone. Of course, I don't really need this, as I'll be using the 3ft breaker to undo the nuts, then 2ft torque wrench to tighten the new ones....but one can never have too many tools. These are the first Snap On items to be added to my tool chest! |
Have the snap-on tool in your pic, though our is 1/2 input and 3/4 output. Works great, though rarely used!
Cheers |
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