Hi Jeff, yes, that's probably the model GA-184A, which would've been more than adequate and would've meant I wouldn't need to buy a set of adapters (more tools...yay!)

Mind you, with the larger item, at least I can justify now getting into Tanks.... ;)

Good to know they work - Agree, it's going to be a rare case of using them, but Phase 2 of the car project (assuming I don't sell the bloody thing in frustration - aka last night - doesn't happen first) is a complete suspension overhaul; front suspension will be coming apart again, as well as inspecting and maybe rebuilding the rear driveshafts, so there's a few more uses for it in the immediate future.

Cheers

Todays update....

The postman arrived today while I was in London, with a couple of the new toys....Brake pressure bleeder:

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And the set of adapters I'm going to need for the torque multiplier. These are impact adapters, so I'm hoping that they wont shear when used....I'd like to think that any 3/4 > 1" drive adapter could take a measly 360lb/ft! :p

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Intercooler is back in place; the way I eventually did it was to remove all other fixings (i.e., the front bolt and the coupling on the hot charge pipe), undo and remove the bolts holding the cold pipe to the throttle body, then wrestle the cold pipe into place, install the locking band, then reinstall everything else. I'm now not convinced that I've done an adequate job on the hot pipe either, specifically the join from the turbo outlet to the pipe itself, which uses a short silicon joiner hose. The problem seems to be that when nipping up the Mikalor clamp onto the hot pipe, there isn't quite enough straight section for a really nice tight seal, instead it pops out very easily. Now, being installed under the billet inlet tank, it can't actually go anywhere but that doesn't ensure that the joint is going to hold the pressure.

So....my plan at the moment is to buy a straight reduction silicon hose, cut off the tapered ally section that interfaces the turbo outlet to the pipe, swage the remaining 3" diameter pipe and use the silicon hose to mate the turbo to the 3" directly. They're 125mm long, so plenty of scope for adjustment and it also means the top Mikalor clamp will be higher and more accessible.

Finished installing the bumper. Then found, laying on the side, a pair of nicely powder coated ribs sections that are used to sandwich the plastic and spread the tension. For GODS SAKE!!! Off come the heatshields and out come those screws. Again.

Lost the will on that part tonight, so I resumed the cabin switchgear installation again, made up some M5 grub screws and got everything absolutely spot-on.

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The boost control, with 3 settings, aligns perfectly in each setting with the 3x legends on the panel. The traction control will (probably) have 8x settings, but of course, with only 3x legends on that switch as well, it's going to look a little weird. I'll need to decide with the centre vertical setting is max TC (which probably makes sense aesthetically), or whether to set Setting #1 at the LH 7 o'clock legend, then rotating clockwise. Anyway, detail, and functionally it's another success. A 964 Turbo with a Carrera 4 switch panel....that should stump a few unsuspecting "anoraks". ;)

Finally this evening, after a few phonecalls to try and source the correct fittings to assemble a remote bleeding hose for the clutch slave cylinder, it looks like there's no off-the-shelf M6x1.0 > -3AN (3/8" x24 UNF) adapter. It's possibly achievable by using some mountainbike brake parts; they use M6 banjo bolts but only onto -2AN hose. Remote bleed nipples are only -3, so it gets a little clunky/messy.

So...have lathe....have stainless hex stock....have dimensions....time to get making!

I may well make 2x different adapters; the first will use a 45º seat per the original bleed nipple, which will then seal against the internal face inside the M6 bleed outlet. With a 2/2.5mm hole drilled through the middle, it should still leave enough seating material. Plan B will be to make a second adapter that seals with a copper or aluminium washer against the back of the slave. From memory it looks to be a machined but painted finish; whether the face is perpendicular enough to the hole to ensure a seal, I don't know, hence why it's my second option.

The M6 end will have the 45º seat as mentioned; the male -3AN end is simply a 3/8" x24 UNF thread with a 37º seat angle.

Then, onto the adapter will fit a simple -3AN 90º swivel joint, 0.5m of teflon hose, then a male -3 bulkhead/bleed nipple adapter. This will probably then go onto a bracket that in turn mounts onto a spare M8 stud on the diff plate of the gearbox (which will then be shielded by the gearbox cover)

That's it for this evening....not sure how much will get done this weekend, lots of plans with Lucy, but we'll see if I can sneak an hour or two...

Now THAT is cool. . . externally everything Porsche. . . not that you would ever valet park it, but it provides you a stealth way to turn the boost down. . . and the traction control up. . . or will you erase the silkscreen and come up with a decal of a turbine blade. . . and the traction control image with the squiggles. . .

The remote bleed setup is interesting. . . can you sketch it on a napkin and shoot with phone cam?

No, I'm probably going to leave the legends as-is John. Like the stock look, with the rear end of the car meaning boost rather than wing lift, and the 4wd legend referring to TC....kind of logical. Steve and I were speaking a few weeks ago about how to put in a hidden, key operated setting into the map that both keeps the boost control valve active all the time (open wastegates) and physically limits the eGas opening, so that it really is a valet parking mode.

Hopefully I'll have it made tomorrow evening, but really easy, M6/-3 male/male adapter in the slave cylinder (replacing stock bleed nipple) > 90deg fitting > -3 hose > -3 bleed nipple bulkhead fitting.

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Just need to find a mounting location that's higher than the slave cylinder.

Bloody marvellous day!

First off, my new Snap-On tools arrived, and I have to say, chuffed to bits. Thanks to Matt, the chap who I bought them off; he said they were mint and he's absolutely on the money, unmarked and if they've been used then I can't tell.

My God they're massive. If your name happens to be Mr I. K. Brunel, then please do give me a shout, I can lend you the tool for the next bridge you have in mind.

I need Snap-On tools in my life. Therefore a toolbox makeover...my kit is nice, falls in the "enthusiastic amateur" category (Halford Professional is actually made by Britool, so pretty decent stuff) but this is another level and of course, guaranteed for life....so if my numbers come in, it's not the dream car (kinda got that), it'll be the like-for-like replacement for Snap-On. Oh and something with a V8....I need a V8. A manual 928GTS will do nicely. Thanks.

Anyway, a quick call to my Brother to come and sit in the drivers seat and stamp on the brake pedal - where he then spent the next 10 minutes in shock about how much smaller/closer everything is in a 964 than his 997. Some care to get anything that could be damaged out of the way (should something let-go), and within a minute, the LHS nut was undone....rare that I'm easily impressed, but I was laughing at how much of a doddle that job had just become. Another task that I'd been mulling over and sweating a little, and it's now sorted.

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Didn't remove the nut, in fact, nipped it back up to ensure nothing daft happens when lowering it off the jack. At the moment the car is pushed over to the far side of the garage so I can get in and out for interior work, but when I'm ready the car will be centralised and up on the vehicle lift, ready to install the traction control components onto the hubs.

Yesterday I started to make the M6 > -3AN adapter for the clutch, but was thwarted by the lathes coolant pump playing-up. With some desperate attempts to get it working again (I'm making it from stainless), I managed to pull off the pressure hose. Inside the suds tank. At the back. Completely unreachable......Grrrreat.

So, in addition to the hub nut, Ollie also helped shuffle the best part of a tonne of lathe out from its resting place. A couple of hours later and it's all stripped, cleaned and reassembled, fresh hose clamps, new elbow, new clips....done properly this time. Turned out that the culprit was a sticking ball valve in the tap head; I now have more flow than I would ever need, but it's too late in the evening to continue the turning, so that'll get finished tomorrow. Hopefully the remote hose can then be installed, ready for the clutch to be bled.

Brian popped over earlier to hear the car fire-up, and also to drop over a new ashtray housing for the dash, and he's found me a loom clip for the front bumper beam! That got fitted immediately before I manage lose it, I only now need to cut a couple of lengths of the single ply silicon ducting hose and push them onto the ducts, then the bumper can go back onto the car permanently.

Back tomorrow...

Evening folks, very short update tonight....

Back onto the lathe, eager to get that adapter finished. All very straightforward, and it came out rather well....pleased with the result, although almost did fall foul of not reducing the lead-in diameter of the -3 (3/8") thread down to the thread core...this would've prevented the 37º seat angle from engaging, a potentially messy problem.

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So, once it was taken care of, a trial fit and it's another job off the list. Time to install it into the slave cylinder - although not tonight, been a long day, and another very early start tomorrow.

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Hold it a minute, that thing is bloody gorgeous!

What did you do, make it out of hex bar stock, turn the ends down then thread them?

No wonder the Industrial Revolution started in Britain!

(Although Ol' Isambard would have made it 24' across, out of cast iron, and used it as part of the London water system :))

Lol! You sound surprised mate?! :) Thank you. It's not perfect, the drill bit I grabbed that looked "ok" was actually a little large, it hasn't left much of a 45º seat at the M6 end to seal with. If it doesn't seal, then I'll simply part it off and use an ally washer to seal the mating face of the hex section against the slave cylinder.

In terms of making it, yup exactly, I had a length of stainless hex-stock 13mm AF, perfect for this. Could've probably got away with making it out of ally hex as well, but was a little concerned that the M6 end would be a little fragile and easily sheared with too much enthusiasm when tightening (or vibration with the car in use).

Going to save this job for the weekend; meeting up with a pal tomorrow night for beers in London, then on Sunday up to Santa Pod for the FIA Euro Drag finals...weather permitting...doesn't seem like a year ago when I bought that piston & rod that I photo'd earlier in the build.

Post weekend update.....

Got some good work done over the weekend; the Santa Pod plan (drag racing) didn't happen, for reasons very boring, but that then freed up yesterday to have a really good crack at reducing the To Do list.

First off, the fire extinguisher. I finally got sick of mentioning it and seeing it as the perennial item-that-never-gets-done on my whiteboard, so time to finally get the bottle mounted in the cabin. To do this, I made an ally template with the same mounting hole pattern as the bottle cradle, and one some guide markings were made with masking tape, time to use this as a drilling plate. I managed to get the bottle really tightly mounted up under the lower dash, and partially hidden under the footwell hot-air duct from the HVAC system.

Not quite tightened up, but approximately in place...

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Not a particularly easy job, as trying to drill the holes right up high is a little tricky, then dealing with the pretty thick (and super sticky) sound deadening just meant that checking a few times was the order of the day. The metal in the footwell is a double skinned affair, so I had to use M6 Nutserts to secure the bottle.

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Next job was to then mount the control unit for the extinguisher, somewhere discreet yet accessible. The glovebox was a good candidate, and it fitted really nicely down the LH side. Lifeline supply the unit with the same double-sided tape as used on rear view mirrors - clearly not very useful for sticking onto the flock material, and it didn't quite fit well enough to stick against the sidewall anyway, so a section of U channel ally was used to interface the two.

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The DIN plug for the control box was then held really snugly by the depth of the glovebox, drilling a 5.5mm hole just large enough for the cable to exit, but small enough to stop the connector boot from passing through, thus keeping it all securely plugged into place.

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I have 2x waterproof red buttons that came with the kit, both have got a really nice red anodized shroud to prevent accidental activation. I'm not using the second switch (usually mounted externally for race marshals to use), so have re-used that shroud to mount over the small toggle switch on the control box....hopefully preventing accidental arming if something in the glovebox moves in transit.

The traction control/boost control panel is now also in place, the auxiliary harness neatly routed under the passenger footwell sound deadening.

Next job on this will be to mount the Big Red Button somewhere in the cabin, then to wire the 3 items together. Finally, the 8mm tubing will be passed down the tunnel, but this was best left until I could get under the car.

A quick cuppa, then time to finish the ducts on the front bumper. All now sorted out, mounted securely, and doing exactly what I need of them. Bumper yet to be screwed back onto the chassis; I need to hook-up the headlight squirters first.

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Next up, another borrowing of my Brother so that we could loosen the RHS front hub nut, before hoisting the car back up onto the vehicle lift. This side did prove to be a fair bit more reluctant, but eventually it relented! A quick lit of undoing and re-tightening before then getting the car airborne.

Final job of the day was the clutch slave cylinder and its new remote bleed hose. First issue was that my guesstimate of how long to make the M6 section was somewhat "off". This is the bleed nipple replacement, but I made it too short, so the hex section was bottoming out before the 45º seat had engaged. Easily fixed by spinning it up in the lathe and reducing the width of the 13mm AF hex section - it was way over the top anyway.....6mm reduction to OD for M6, then an some more thread cutting, followed by a small undercut to M6 core diameter. Perfect, nips up snug with about 2-3mm showing.

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The 1m of -3AN hose looks to have been an inspired decision (!). Of course, the deliberate mistake I posted last week re mounting the remote nipple in the footwell was of course utter nonsense...that wouldn't have been higher than the slave cylinder, so potential air trap. The 1m of hose did allow me to route into the engine bay (despite me saying I didn't want any clutter...). There's a nice gap in the tinware near to the auxiliary oil pump, where it then runs behind the AC lines, up the bulkhead and secured under the parcel shelf using a P-clip and plastic nut onto an existing sound-pad stud.

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Final job last night was to make a bracket to mount the bleed nipple just above the IC on the left hand side. Not quite finished yet, and I may well re-make it to be a little smaller. It'll be anodized when finished either way....but now I can crack on with actually replacing the brake fluid and trying my hand at the clutch system. Hopefully tonight.

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Well, not quite the evenings work I was planning on!

I got started this evening on continuing the work on the remote slave cylinder bleed hose; trimming the mounting bracket and changing the mounting onto the chassis (I want to get it mounting under the sound pad rather than on top of it - nips up tighter to the chassis and aesthetically it looks better)....all in anticipation of finishing the brake and clutch bleeding tonight.

Next job, to tighten the 90º coupling onto the adapter I made. Not easy getting 2x spanners in there to counter hold it, and sods law, what I thought was a tight enough "nip" of the adapter last night, wasn't. The whole lot came loose, but with the 90º coupling now tight onto the adapter, with the elbow in the wrong orientation. Grrrr. An at this point I'm wondering whether I've (yet again) gone overboard with a solution for an answer that wasn't *really* there....certainly for the few times I'll hopefully ever need to bleed the clutch. So potentially a good $100 wasted on parts, and was just about to have a right old swear but instead decided to leave the clutch until tomorrow and get on with the front hub bolts - I don't have any bleed hose to hand anyway, so running fluid tonight was a non-starter.

And then the evening went stellar!

All 4 wheels off (ready for brake bleeding, refitting of inner arches, final bolt-up of the bumpers), and the RHS hub undone...all very easy, bolt out followed by the ABS timing wheel assembly. A cinch, just a gentle tap with a deep reach socket through from the front.

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You may remember that I had two different timing wheels water-jet cut, some months ago. Both are similar, just one was slightly larger than the other, and as I type this, I may well also try the larger of the two when I resume play tomorrow night.

Anyway, careful mark-up of the mounting holes for the timing wheels, hoping and praying that the material wasn't hardened, otherwise game over, and think of a Plan B.

Thankfully, the pilot holes went in beautifully, and certainly very glad I took the time to remove and drill them securely on the pillar drill; definitely not a job to be done in-situ (although it did occur to me instead of buying the torque multiplier!)

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Holes drilled again and tapped to M3, then the plastic insulator rings were tidied up (they were straight from the water jet cutting process, and a little scruffy). These are being used so that my hall effect sensors don't pick up any of the ABS teeth, and vice-versa with the ABS sensors picking up the metal timing wheel I'm mounting for traction control.

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Finally, the holes on the timing wheel needed to be countersunk. If I were to remake these wheels, then I'd make 2 changes; firstly, extend the land around the outside of the 4 holes (similar but inverse to the wheels mounted on the gearbox output flanges), and I'd make them out of thicker gauge material; there's not really enough meat there to countersink the holes for M3, but they do need to be as flush as possible to clear the HE sensor....I predict some very fine shims will be needed to mount the sensors at precisely the correct distance from the wheels.

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At this point, I had one of those "Oh CRAP" moments, whereby I thought that the ID of this assembly hadn't been considered at all, and wondered whether I could then get a 32mm socket in there to tighten up this M22 bolt!

First try using an impact socket - nope....uh oh.

The second socket, non impact style, thankfully cleared perfectly. I'd like to say it was well-engineered, but it was purely luck!

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Last job for the evening was to trial fit everything into the upright, including the ally top-hat caps that I made last year. These will be used to both seal the hub (replacing the plastic caps) and to mount the HE sensors axially. It looks like these may need to be spun up on the lathe to reduce the wall thickness, and/or the OD of the plastic insulator ring may need reducing, as they don't *quite* fit as originally intended. Small challenge, no biggy.

So, overall, very pleased that another perennial to-do item is underway and going as planned...with things going this well, the car will EASILY be finished this decade.

Bah! Even an oversize socket is no match for a man with a lathe! :)

Thankfully it was a match that didn't need playing, John!....the snuggest of fits [/fluke]

In a bid to step away from the monitor at lunch, I was eager to see whether the other set of timing wheels would be a better option than the set I used last night....and they are. Half an hour spent in the workshop (who needs food anyway), and everything is A-OK....

The other set of timing wheels are a fair bit larger in OD, therefore more material on the edge of the 3mm mounting holes, and so they havent broken through with the countersinking. In drilling the countersinks, because the material is pretty thin it naturally does "push" material through to the back, making a dimple. Rather than remove this and open up the hole diameter to 4-4.5mm, I've left them, then also countersunk the plastic ring that sits underneath. If nothing else, it helps keep everything located concentrically.

The plastic rings were mounted onto the 3-jaw on the ID, and the OD reduced by about 2mm until they were the exact diameter as the OD of the ABS timing wheels themselves.

When all mounted back together, the countersunk screws sit really nice and flush now, a lot better than last nights experiment.

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Trying them back on the chassis and it fits like a glove! The ally top-hat's slip in beautifully, and giving the wheel a spin results in no witness marks on the inside of he caps. Excellent! Not bad for 30mins work.

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Tonights job, with a mug o'tea and peace and quiet, will be to calculate the offset for the HE sensors to be mounted, and then mount them into the 4-jaw so that the holes can be bored.

Another productive evening, and for the most part, everything went swimmingly.

So, first job was to replicate the RHS timing wheel mounting on the LHS wheel...when you know the exact procedure, everything is so much quicker; I had the hub bolt out, the wheel off, drilled and mounted inside 20mins.

Next job was then to measure and calculate the position of the HE sensor relative to the centre-line of the timing teeth. I decided on positioning it 90º from the ABS sensor; no particular reason, just looked best there and about as out-of-the-way from adjacent suspension fixings as possible...a whiteboard full of sketches and calculations later, and the top-hats were marked up and ready for pilot drilling.

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Now, the plan was to mount these into the 4-jaw chuck on the lathe, however, the hole to be bored was so offset that the piece couldn't be held satisfactorily with all 4 jaws. Simply not safe, and way to easy to damage the cap itself (best case).

So, back onto the pillar drill, and drill out the hole to the biggest twist drill I have, 13mm. Tomorrow I'll need to nip out to the local tool shop and buy a step-drill. Don't know why I haven't bought one before, but there you go.

As you can see on the RHS cap in the picture, when placed over one of the timing wheels, the teeth will be in perfect alignment with the centre-pip of the HE sensor. All that needs to be done is make some spacer rings to set the height correctly once installed.

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The final job for the evening, whilst riding the crest of the Garage Gods good-fortune wave, was to drill the hub uprights in order to use an M5 fixing that will retain the caps/sensor inside the hub. The original black plastic caps simply snap into place in much the same way as wheel centre caps, using 4x fingers to lock into an inner groove detail. Clearly, can't use that with this cap, so the plan was to drill and tap a hole that will lock the cap into place....

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Next step, insert the cap back into position, then drill and tap the M5 thread. Now, my thinking was to tap right the way through in one go, so no risk of misaligned thread ending/starting positions between the hub and the cap. Good plan, except that about 10mm into the thread cut, the bloody tap snapped. Clean off. DAMMIT! My luck had run out, clearly.

Desperately trying not to panic (or swear very loudly), the next hour was spent trying every tool in the box and trick in the book to try and unwind it. Fat chance, no way it was coming out that easily. Now, at this point I started to panic a little; the cap was installed and what I guess was the tip of the tap was preventing it coming out again. It couldn't have been much, there was a lot of play...so, time to bring out the reverse slide hammer, and thankfully the 13mm hole that had been drilled moments before allowed the use of a 90º hook to be used to tap it out backwards.

The remnants of the tap did eventually come out - what worked for me was to hammer in a fine tapered punch down the exposed ends of the 3 flutes; although hardened, the tap didn't like the compression force, and so I shattered it out. Phew!

Change of plan, the hole in the hub was now going to be a 5mm clearance hole! No harm done, but I now need to add an M5 tap to the tool shopping list tomorrow, although I did manage to grind remaining part of the tap into something usable, which served well to tap the hole in the cap....

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(Hate posting pictures of the suspension looking so scabby - but as mentioned a few times in this write-up, suspension refresh and upgrade is Phase 2)

Again, repeating the procedure on the LHS was a piece of cake, and apart from painting a thin coat of the Dinitrol wax coating onto the timing wheels (I had to breach the electroplating to cut the countersunk holes), that's where I've left it for the evening. Very productive, and apart from getting the top hat caps black anodized, I reckon this job will be completed tomorrow night.

Quick update....

Managed to get an 18mm twist drill from the local tool shop; the planned step-drill option wouldn't have worked as the material I was drilling out to 18mm was too thick for each of the steps on the tool.

Mounting the caps firmly onto the table of the pillar drill using a couple of finger clamps meant that I got a perfect cut each time, giving a 0.1mm clearance fit to the sensors 17.9mm OD. Fastening bolt hole positions then marked, drilled and tapped to M6....

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...and the sensors mount perfectly. Next job was to then measure the dimensions for the sensor stand-off collars that will set the sensor 1.5mm away from the timing wheels. At this point, I confess to getting distracted by Apples announcement (sorry, am an Apple fanboy), and so by the time I finished watching it, not live, it was too late to make the collars. Anyway, they're all now drawn up on the whiteboard and the stock material is ready to go, so perhaps an early night/early start to get them made before the day-job starts.

The intention is to machine a couple of recesses into the ID of each end of the large collars, which will then accommodate an o-ring top and bottom, in an attempt to prevent as much moisture/muck ingress as possible into the centre of the hub via the clearance hole for the sensor body.

I also bought an M5 time-sert kit today. My thinking for this is to use time-serts for the M5 cap fixing holes that are used to retain the caps into the hubs. Thinking a few years down the line, if that M5 screw ever seizes into the cap, it's going to be a right pain in the arse to get it out, not to mention a destructive exercise. Using a stainless threaded insert should help to prevent this, albeit I'll need to Dremel each insert a little shorter to cater for the wall thickness of the caps.

Nice work as usual. It looks like they use as much road salt there as they do around here, it makes a mess of a car's undercarriage after a few years. It makes the car makers and the body shops happy though. :D

Yes, you're not wrong mate, "we" use salt like it's going out of fashion in the UK. Except we're absolutely rubbish at planning and using it when it's needed - it always makes the headlines when "oh dear me, look at that, we've been hit by an unexpected blizzard" followed by "...and we couldn't: get the salt/spread the salt/wake the salt spread bloke up in time" (delete as appropriate)

Not sure what you guys do over there in terms of road tax, but we have either an annual plan or a 6 month option over here; most folk with toys put them to bed over the winter and save about half the cost of the road tax each year, and not expose them to the road salt.

Some time spent on the lathe at lunch meant that I've now finished the front traction control setup! Hurrah!

As mentioned in last nights update, the measurements and drawings were all done in preparation, so some quick turning got the final 4 pieces made.

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The stand-off for the main body of the sensor has a relief at each end to accommodate an o-ring, nothing too tight, but a nice light seal that will keep out any spray...

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Finally, the box of 500 assorted o-rings I bought a few years ago has paid off!

Once mounted onto the front uprights it all looks exactly as I was hoping; nothing fouls, the only thing I've not yet checked is the electrical signal. The HE sensors aren't yet terminated with the Sureseal connectors, I'll need to take them back over to Simon @ Sileck to get them fitted, but I reckon I'll have about a week before the electroplating shop can get them anodised, once they have them.

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Tonights job - brake fluid change and clutch bleeding (yes, really this time. Promise)

Great progress this evening....finally, the clutch and brakes are bled.

First job, as it was an empty fluid circuit, was to bleed the clutch. I was dreading this a little, as Chris had said that it can often be an absolute swine to get done, but when we were on FaceTime a few weeks ago, and he saw the far simpler pipe run for RHD cars, we both thought it was perhaps the convoluted run across from the LHS, traversing the tunnel and then going rearward, that maybe becomes an air trap.

Sorry Chris, you're gonna hate me for this....but it all went very smoothly! The Sealey pressure bleeder has been superb this evening. Really nicely made piece of kit, feels extremely robust - to anyone thinking of buying it, do it...wish I had years ago. I left the clutch line open and flowing for 3-4 minutes, getting well over a litre purged. I got to about 2mins, thought it was done, no bubbles for a minute or so, then all of a sudden a loud splutter followed by the purged air escaping. Another minute and I shut it off. No need for the remote bleed pipe I blew $100 on. Dammit. Oh well, I'm sure I'll use the fittings somewhere in future....K.I.S.S. (Keep It Simple Spencer)

Sitting in the cabin to try the pedal, and it feels great. Again, Chris and I had discussed the use of the 997GT2RS clutch assembly and how heavy it was likely to be. Sure, it's heavy but initial thoughts are that it's certainly not unmanageable. It feels like it's actuating rather than compressing air, but of course I won't know until I go to move the car under it's own steam. Fingers crossed.

So, something I hadn't reckoned on doing was purging/bleeding the hydraulic pump unit, to rid it of the old fluid. The 964 Carrera's are vacuum brake assist, the 964 C4 and Turbo's both use a hydraulic boost system. Thankfully it's only the C4's that need the Bosch "Hammer" diag tool to cycle the traction control locking circuit. Following the procedure in Adrian Streathers book, it all looks to have gone fine....I got a froth of bubbles to start with under pump pressure, and as documented, they then subside. Switch off the pump, bleed pressure off again, then cycle the pump a second time...repeat as necessary until no more bubbles. Which I did manage to do (I think) before the battery started dying. Again, crossed fingers.

Finally onto the callipers. This was an absolute doddle - I was done in 15minutes. No seized nipples (we free'd them up and changed the fluid when I first bought the car, so they shouldn't have been seized, but you can never tell...). A 2litre bottle (plus a slick of overflow on the garage floor) is now full of dark horrid brake fluid. Job done!

So, something I'm not too happy about....

A few months ago, in anticipation of removing the front hub spindles, I bought a pair of replacement M22 nuts; as they're a prevailing torque design, they're a once-only use item.

This evening, I just happened to be tidying up, and had the old and new nuts side-by-side.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...174EE6F9C6.jpg

It's definitely the correct part, per the PET it's illustration 401-05, Item#16, 999 090 008 02...but it's way shorter than the one's that have come off.

Anyone have any thoughts? I'll post the Q over in the 964/993 forum too, and hope that Bill Verburg sees it and comments.