Great work Spencer!

Pay all the same attention to your arm. ;-)

Glad to see her going back together, Spencer!

Thanks guys!...Yep, it'll be back together before you know it. Bizarrely, I'm quite looking forward to the cam timing setting, I get to use my new digital DTI's and the Z-blocks!

Hello Spencer, are you going to settle(adjust) your cams in 1.26mm? :)

Hi Pat, yes, from memory that's what I set them to last time, so I plan to set it the same this time.

SmileWavy;)

Got the 1-2-3 pistons and cylinders installed on Wednesday evening - I'm getting the installation of these wrist pin circlips off to a fine art now! (but it's still a job I have no desire to repeat).

Not a big evening in the workshop tonight, just snuck an hour out there...but a very useful and productive hour nonetheless.

Cam carrier for 1-2-3 was cleaned in the tank the other night, then rinsed with brake cleaner tonight. The plan was to install it dry, no sealant or oil return tubes, in order to align the cylinder heads before torquing them down, and to also check that there's no binding of the camshaft.

Of course, a steel straight edge was used to span the 3 heads and make sure they're all level (they were), so no reason why the cam should bind...but just making sure.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1517.jpg

All looking great, no binding. The oil return tubes were also cleaned in the tank, rinsed and air dried, then fitted with the new Wrightwood O-rings in readiness for the cam carrier fitting "proper" with Threebond (it worked brilliantly the first time, so no reason to change. A new tube arrived the other day, old tube had gone-off and separated)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1518.jpg

It's starting to look a lot more like an engine again now! The amount of space around the house and my office that is now being relinquished is very nice as well...I'm getting an engine and a bigger house, both at the same time!

Hi when you get it all finished if you want to run and map it in the test cell before re fitting to car drop me a line i am just carrying out two single turbo conversion and a twin all to go to Germany i have to say all running COP and MoTeC

Ok thanks Neil, I'll certainly bear that in mind.

Morning folks, time for a long-overdue update.

Lots of progress, really am pleased with how it's all coming together (anyone following me on Instagram will have seen a lot of the progress already)

Heads torqued down with the cam carriers dry-fitted. Then time to build the carrier assembly with oil return tubes installed, and Threebond 1184 to seal between the housing and the heads. No drama there.

Knock sensor bridges then fitted - nice to see that my machining work on the underside of the heads has paid off, perfect alignment on both sides and ready for the sensors to be mounted.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1568.jpg

Time to move onto the timing chain housings, now fully cleaned to remove the old Curil-T (jeez that stuff is a pig to clean off, there always seems to be a feint layer of it each time you think you've got it clean). Another dry fit of the housings to check how concentric the camshaft is relative to the thrust plate hole. The RH bank was more concentric, no idea why, but both were fine to use the gasket and with the o-rings installed onto the thrust plates with all 3 holes lining up fine. Again sealed with Threebond 1184.

Next job to re-check how parallel the sprockets are relative to the intermediate shaft. No reason why anything should've changed, and indeed it hadn't, 4 spacer shims on each cam (a 5th spacer would've brought the LH cam a little close to optimum, but without it it's still well within spec). Chain ramps reinstalled, and then I got to play with my new Stomski Racing chain tensioners.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1583.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1592.jpg

Last time, I tried using clamps to hold the tensioner arms tight, but it was a pretty poor experience, with them getting knocked, then having to start again, a right PITA...can't beat having the right tools. Speaking of which, I also now got to use my pair of Mitutoyo Digimatic DTI's and PROPER Z-blocks. Again, last time I tried holding an analogue DTI on a magnetic base. It took lots of time to get it spot-on perpendicular to the valve, then the tip would slip off of the valve cap, start again....urghhh....I don't miss that method! The resolution on my analogue DTI was pretty high, so many sweeps of the hand to get the 1.26mm lift measurement...."did I just miscount?...or was I imagining it?....".....start again.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1594.jpg

In the end, using a DTI on each bank, I did the whole timing exercise in comfortably less than 2 hours...AND got it spot-on 1.26mm on each side...no shortcuts or half measures, checked, double and triple checked, Chris was kind enough to mark my homework by watching a video I did of the 720º of rotation (such was my "that was waaay to easy" levels of paranoia!)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1602.jpg

A razor blade held using (said) magnetic base for TDC observation. No idea why, but after many hours of checking TDC dwell, my TDC "Z" mark on the pulley doesn't align with the case parting line.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1593.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1603.jpg

Once that's done, remove the Stomski's and substitute with the proper hydraulic tensioners ensuring that the chain never went slack. No problems there either.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1601.jpg

Tuesday morning I started to build up the 4-5-6 bank with the rocker assembly and the TurboKraft rocker locks....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1584.jpg

Valve lash set on the remaining 5 valves on that bank, get the valve covers on, and replace the timing box covers (Curil-T again, it worked well the first time....if it ain't broke...). Fitting the timing box cover to 1-2-3 chain is as far as I got the other day before other activities curtailed play.

Next job is to finish off the 1-2-3 bank rocker arms, cleaning them and replacing the RSR oil seals on the shafts with a new set and carefully inserting to avoid slicing the rubber on the cam housing.

Hi Spencer,
You move forward very well on the reconstruction of your engine, continue like that!
I I preferred to remove the hydraulic carrier straps.
I also installed(settled) the kit TK for the waterproofness of tippers, pay special attention to the order of assembly.
Good luck for the continuation! :)

Hi Pat, cheers mate.

Q: "I preferred to remove the hydraulic carrier straps." - sorry, I'm not sure I understand?

Cheers
S

Sorry Spencer for the translation ... :RÉ



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1512683824.jpg
A photo will be more explicit, I preferred to install(settle) carrier strap of mechanical chain(channel) instead of those hydraulics of origin. :)

Ah, I see. I think a lot of the racing guys with the earlier spring tensioners (pre-hydraulic) replace them with fixed tensioners - in fact, the Stomski ones also come with spacers so that they can be permanently installed.

Hi Spencer,

Needs to verify just more regularly the tension of the chain.

Yep, which isn't a 5 minute job!....removing the turbo, the tinware, piping, oil feed to the turbo....nah, I'll stick with the lower maintenance option and keep the hydraulic tensioners!

Yes, you are right, I shall see good in time! :)

Another productive few evenings, albeit sporadic with the odd hour or two here-and-there.

All the valve rockers are now back in, everything thoroughly washed, old RSR seals removed and replaced with a new set.

The TurboKraft rocker shaft locks are all in place, really nicely made items. All valve lashes set using the little tool I bought a few years ago. Really like this gadget, I've checked it numerous times with a feeler gauge, and it's spot on so long as you don't over-tighten the screw/foot too much before you rotate for 0.1mm clearance. Just a case of tightening it a few times to get the feel for how tight is just right, and as long as you can hold the thumbwheel still while tightening the locknut, then you're good.

Valve covers back on loosely for the time being, I need to finish the mounting posts for the CoP units. Timing chain covers also installed, along with the oil supply lines to the cams and tensioners.

The oil filter housing was flushed through and reinstalled with the new Wrightwood seals; easy job, another engine part out of my home office.

Intermediate shaft cover back on, new o-ring and a smear of Threebond 1184.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1669.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1670.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1668.jpg

The cooling fan is back in place, primarily because the charging loom is still attached and run through the air shroud (I removed them all as a single assembly when I tore the engine down) - I needed to see how much clearance I have for the knock sensors, and whether I need to order them with a flying lead (same as the 964 Carrera part) or whether to buy a pair where the Junior Mini Timer plug attaches directly....leads me on to a question....

Q) Is there any electronic/sensitivity differences between various knock sensors, or are they all the same internally, it's just the packaging that changes? All the ones I've seen on the Bosch website specify a "Type Formula" of KS-1-K. Not sure what that means...

The Googling I’ve done so far is inconclusive as to whether there are sensitivity calibrations that are dependant upon bore size. I suspect this is wrong info, as the Bosch tables that describe each models application cover a variety of models of a manufacturer, as well as engine size.

The sensor on Syvecs' own site describes a frequency range of 1hz-20hz, which is most likely the unit I'll buy....just curious more than anything.

Hi Spencer... great job here... this thread I am sure will be the engine pin-up of many when they are able to build such a great motor...!!
Could you please post pics and name of the valve adj tool u used and liked for its accuracy and ease of use it sounds...
Thx and carry on with the build.. good things await you in the near future with this build...!!))
Thx Bob

Hi Bob!

Many thanks for the kind words, but I very much doubt there'll be any "pin-up" activity, there are far more deserving engine builds out there. If folk can get any help or are able to distill some thoughts on their own projects, then great...it's what it's all about!

The lash tool I'm using is the Kirk one (there's a sizeable thread in this forum somewhere about it, started by the guy who designed/made it)

Available from our host >> Kirk Engines Valve Lash Adjustment Tool for Air, Cooled 911s

ETA: Here you go, the original thread >> Original Kirk Valve Lash Setting Tool Thread