Hello Spencer,
It is good to take the time to make well things, I am absolutely sure your engine will be in peak condition!

Continue like that! ;-)

Pat

I will mate...I will. I never have taken short-cuts, and not about to start now! ;):D

Progress update from last night.

(After replying back to Pat, above, I'm now going to immediately contradict myself)

So, a job I didn't do last time around, was to strip the auxiliary turbo oil scavenge pump on the back of 1/2/3 camshaft. I probably got as far as trying to remove the drive pin from the input shaft, and I wouldn't have had the hydraulic press in the workshop at that point. Smacking it with a hammer and parallel punch = not a good idea. (although I did try to gently tap it out this way, it soon became evident that this was an interference fit)

Onto the press, and some creative ways to hold the pump housing (!). That's great, but it only gets the pin out so-far, and not through the shaft. Next task, grind a Goldilocks punch (not too short to be able to hold it, not too long that it bends). One 75mm M6 caphead bolt and an offhand grinder later....

(Useful tip for anyone doing this....for the last part of the pin extraction I mounted everything in a vice, with an 8mm deep reach socket on the other side of the shaft, where the pin is exiting from to support the shaft itself. Once you've driven the pin out this far, you don't need the force of the hydraulic press to do the final few mm)

(Another useful tip - don't split the pump housing before removing the drive pin; you want to support the gears on both sides to avoid the gear teeth damaging the internal pump cavity walls)

Some gently tapping around the areas of the locating dowels for each pump case half, and you end up with this:

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After another few minutes in the cleaning tank.....(albeit with the wrong 3 bolts in this photo, for the eagle-eyed; these are pump housing>cam carrier bolts http://forums.pelicanparts.com/suppo...leys/silly.gif )

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Some reassembly...

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And then onto making a gasket. Stupidly, I used my 3rd gasket in the kit after I had a change-of-plan last week. When deciding what I was going to use to seal the cam thrust plate with, I was going to use 1184, then changed my mind to using CurilT...but by this point had wrecked the Wrightwood gasket with 1184. Nevermind, I have a sheet of gasket material. And a sheet of A4 paper. And patience.

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What I haven't shown in a pic, is the replacement pump shaft seal. Easy enough, pull the old brown Victor Reinz one (more evidence that, as suspected, somebody had done some level of overhauling of the engine before I owned the car) and replace with the mucky blue coloured Wrightwood seal.

After fitting the tinware to the end of #3 cylinder, along with the TK head temp sensor, the air injection pump housing was then fitted last night, ready to accept the oil pump. However, I need to balance the cam position wheel. This was something that my balancing guy just ran out of time to do a few weeks ago, before I needed to collect all the parts from him. This one should be simple (I'll post pics later), whereby the small wheel has a protruding ca.1" long pickup "bolt". Directly opposite that, I need to drill and tap an M10 hole and fit a grubscrew (or similar), that should have similar mass to that bolt. Once that's done the pump can go back on, with cam position hall-effect sensor re-fitted.

Another great, productive evening last night. Thankfully I'm now returning to the point where I have to tear myself away from working through the night on it; a few months ago, that certainly wasn't the case.

So, last night I finished off the turbo scavenge pump, the air pump drive housing was fitted the previous night, so first order of the evening was to balance the cam position sensor wheel; the ferrous bolt I use to trigger the hall effect sensor, although as skinny as I would like to go, is still a mass that extend beyond the mounting wheel a "decent" amount....not a disaster in terms of balance, but worthy of spending a few minutes to get it balanced. "Marginal Gains" as the very clever Sir David Brailsford often says.

I had drilled and tapped a number of peripheral holes into the mount when I was re-positioning the pickup away from where the crank sensor "dead" area is. The one that is directly opposite from the trigger bolt is where the equal mass needed to be mounted, so a sacrificial M10 bolt was used, and M10 tapped hole machined into the carrier.

Of course, the first trick is to get the M10 "slug" the same mass as the trigger bolt. No word of a lie, this was "as I cut it" from the bolt....

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Boom! At 0.04g different, that's not bad for a guess, haha! (the term "I'd rather be lucky than clever" seems appropriate!)

And then Threadlocked into the carrier....

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Next, I needed to make some new caphead bolts to mount the trigger wheel onto the end of the camshaft (the old ones have gone AWOL), with a check to ensure they engaged deep enough to pick up the oil pump drive pin (they do now, after some thicker aluminium washers were fitted).

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And close everything up....

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Power steering pump next. A quick clean in the tank (did I mention Jizer is great at removing Curil-T?...yep, sure I did)....belt fitted, covers on, happy days. More parts vacating my home office.

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Next up, the cooling fan/alternator. Temporarily positioned over the weekend, but no reason why it can't be mounted permanently. V-belt on, pulley clamp bolts tightened, multi-vee belt on, and fan belt warning switch fitted. Easy. In addition, the crank pulley cover is also now on, and the engine mounting bar fitted nice and level.

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Last job for the evening was a cleanup of the crankcase breather chimney...the dreaded ringleader in the oily triangle-of-death. More Curil-T to clean off, then a new gasket from Porsche, and interestingly, it's a lot thicker than the Victor Reinz paper one I fitted last time. Under the torque of the 4x M6 nuts, it does squash out a little. Still used a smear of Curil-T again, just in case!

Chris did remind me last night, that I really ought to have done a cold leak-down test first, so this will be the first job this evening.

Hoping that the knock sensors will arrive today, they can then go onto the bridges on either bank. I'll need to fashion a couple of holes in the air shroud to allow the flying lead to pass through, and for serviceability to replace the sensor, if I ever need to. Correct 964 Carrera grommets about to be ordered.

Exhaust system and turbo has been retrieved from my other garage across town, so that can go on later tonight as well, along with all the tinware.

I also just received another great little tool, something I've been meaning to order for a few years and never got around to doing it....a 1/4" drive torque wrench, intended primarily for pedal bike use when working with "Gucci" carbon fibre components.

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It's got a range of 2Nm to 24Nm, and really nicely made I have to say...and only £30!. Super impressed. The catalyst for me now buying it, was to be able to torque the rocker shaft bolts in the valve train. Of course, the bolts must be orientated with the head inwards; the No.1 and No.4 rockers can be accessed first with a long reach extension bar from the flywheel end, but the middle and other end have to be done by Using The Force (F-tight, plus a bit, using an Allen key)....I'm hoping, although not yet tried, that this new torque wrench will be small enough to do those middle bolts.

Back later with more updates....

Looks fantastic. Will you be mounting the turbo sump pump filter AFTER the pump this time? Also, the engine mounted oil filter; is there a way to fill the filter prior to mounting to minimize the fill time when cranking the engine over for the first time?

Thanks!

Hmm, no I'd intended mounting the inline filter the same as before, between the catch tank and the pump, but open to suggestions. Logically I can't see the reason for mounting it after the pump, other than to protect against pump failure?

Re the oil filter, this is where my memory is useless...can't remember what I did last time; the obvious answer is that I filled it before screwing it on (filter is vertical on the 964, so that's easy enough)....but I also vaguely recall that the filters may be valved, making that impossible? Or am I mis-remembering again?

I would suggest mounting the filter after the pump, since in most cases, the pump is more efficient in pushing oil through a filter than trying to draw the oil through it.

The engine mounted oil filter is valved. I finished a top end rebuild after a catastrophic turbo charger failure. Mounted C2 turbo oil filter console on my 930 and tried to pre-fill the filter before screwing it on and it didn't work. Took about an ounce of oil before it started flowing over the top. I suspect that a fitting that would over come the spring pressure would be required to allow filling the canister. Don't how to do that though. :(

Ok thanks Dave, I'll revisit the filter in which case.

Yup, the oiling issue is something I'm always conscious of, so I'm no stranger to using Redline assembly lube (albeit I don't drown the engine with it). I do know that you have to be a little cognoscente of it being pretty "sticky" and potentially can block filters; but I guess like anything, used correctly it'll be ok.

Just popped into the workshop to try the new torque wrench; it works a treat! So chuffed. Deal of the decade.

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Hi Spencer,

You are lucky to have the place to cross your key, I I had to use an extension lead to squeeze(tighten) everything in the couple. (18Nm) of memory. :)

Yup it was a very easy job in the end with this tool ;)

Hi Spencer, SmileWavy

To have good tools it is the ideal! :)

I'm rebuilding quicker than I can remember to update this thread!

Saturday morning started with a call from Porsche Tonbridge saying that, despite expectation to the contrary, my parts had arrived in stock, ready to collect. Excellent!....except that my car was still on summer tyres, and we've now started proper with our snow and icy roads. The journey from me to them involves lots of lanes, a stupid mistake waiting to happen. A quick scramble to switch them over, then belt it over to the OPC before their parts dept shut for the day.

I posted on Instagram, that I must be the only idiot that spent £36 for 4x lumps of rubber, plus half a tank of fuel and a 120mile round trip. In fairness I grabbed a couple of oil filters while I was over there....but I reckon they're probably some of the most expensive grommets you're likely to find with an £80 outlay!

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But...these are the parts used on the Carrera's to feed the knock sensors through the air shroud. A 2-piece affair, the simple stepped outer grommet sits in the plastic, the thicker split collar goes around the sensor wire, and pushes snuggly into the outer grommet. It is nice. £36 nice? Hmmm...I must be nuts.

Some marking out of the shroud with a dummy build was needed next. I was going to use the Carrera locations, but good job I didn't, they would've fouled the throttle linkage I'm using (specifically the eGas potentiometer). As it happens, this is pretty much a mirror image of how the Carrera models have them. Thankfully I was able to do this in-situ, as I happened to have the perfectly sized die punch from when I was making holes in the tinware a few years ago. A quick 10mm pilot hole and some gentle winding to ensure no plastic splitting. Bingo. Perfect job and virtually no mess.

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The sensors themselves finally arrived midday yesterday. No more than a 2min job to install them. Access through the front of the shroud where the HVAC cooling pipework normally sits. Loctite and a couple of M8 set screws, job done. Refit the HVAC pipework to seal up the front of the shroud.

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First job on Sunday was to re-torque the inward facing rocker arm bolts. Very easy job, a quick removal, clean, re-insert and tighten. So glad I bought that 1/4" drive torque wrench, surprising how many times I use it, now that its sitting on the work bench; it feels far less heavy-handed tightening M6 fasteners using it, rather than the next smallest (3/8" drive) torque wrench.

Next up, time to get the inlet manifold and the whole injector, sensor and God-knows-what-else assembly onto the engine. Clean off the old Curil-T from the phenolic plastic spacers and lo-and-behold, the biggest jump in appreciable progress - all in less than 20minutes.

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Plumbing re-connected (as far as possible), then time to get the tinware shrouds onto the periphery, very simple clean-and-refit task.

A quick late-night job before wrapping up for the evening was to re-make the throttle body > manifold gasket. I made one years ago using silicon sheet but despite it being pretty thin, under torque it still bulged out from the edges including into the throat of the intake system; only marginally, but it looks rubbish. Time to make a new one from the gasket material I have. Another easy job nailed. The "cold" pipe from the intercooler to the throttle body could now be fitted, but again another niggly issue was fixed - this time the pipework was ridiculously tight to get onto the body, the o-ring just not compressing enough to allow it to slip over. It was hard enough (impossible) to do with the engine out of the car, nevermind having to do this in-situ. I remember fighting and swearing at this last time around, so a ripe candidate to resolve now. A rummage around the spare parts boxes revealed the perfect o-ring; with a little bit of a stretch it has opened it up enough to make a super plush slip-on of that cold pipe. Excellent, ripping through these jobs!

Dump valve is now back onto the underside of the cold pipe, and plumbed-in to the intake plenum.

Wiring loom was next up late last night.....and I like those super expensive knock sensor grommets SO much, I've decided to buy another pair to use for the loom to pass through the tinware to the underside of the engine (ignition coils)! I also need to order another new crank position sensor housing; the flashback happened this morning; while swapping out the inductive sensor we had to quickly source and use on the engine dyno 2yrs ago, we also had to modify the mounting bolt hole, it's not the same as the HE sensors that I use all over the car.

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It's starting to look very busy and congested on the top side of the engine, back to cutting fingers and knuckles whilst attaching the electronic bits, routing pipework and harnesses. But....things are moving along really well now. The exhaust system will go on this evening, with the turbo still attached, then some more big-boy plumbing. If I get on well, then potentially the wastegates can go back on as well.

I noticed that some of the clear heatshrink I used on the stainless boost lines (and oil lines) has split with the heat in the engine bay. I guess it was cheapy heatshrink to be fair. So....I need to make a trip over to Simon @ Sileck to get some more HE sensors terminated with Deutch connectors - I'll see if we can also re-sleeve these -4AN boost lines in proper Raychem DR-25 instead. Stealth black, with a far higher temperature rating.

Two jobs that are on the list are to make the turbo oil feed line an easier one to access. I think I'll look at re-using the stainless CDS pipework I was previously using to monitor exhaust backpressure (we're not doing this now), and fitting some male and female connections onto it, plus 3/4/5" of pipe to extend it through the top tinware. From there, the oil feed line from the back of the engine can mount onto it "top side".

I also need to get the intercooler mounted, and see what space I have available to mount the second anti-phase boost control valve. That'll also need a load more plumbing fittings. Hmmm. Maybe not-so-near after all!

Hi Spencer,

When I read your narrative and see your work I think of the word "perfection", your engine will be incredible! :)

Thanks mate! Appreciate it. Well...always aim for perfection, whether or not I get there, time will tell. As long as it drives nicely, I'll be happy. ;)

Exhaust system is back on.

At some point in the future, once the car is back on the road and I quit spending like a mad thing on this car, a new TurboKraft system will be on the shopping list. But, for now this is more than fine. It's now well modified with relocated wastegates and the divided input to the GT35R, so it's been a good "test mule" until now. It certainly made good numbers on dyno a few years ago, especially low down torque. So my only downer with the system is cosmetics. Functionally its really good; primary and secondary lengths are good, the diameters are also good for this level of build. There's a slip joint between each half and if I want them, there are 2x Lambda bosses either side of the turbo flange (but we'll probably continue to use the single Lambda on the turbo exit).

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_1821.jpg

Now, what I had noticed after I fitted the system back onto the engine, was that some of the head flange>primary welds were interfering with the copper crush nuts. This certainly wouldn't have helped the system to seal, and I did hear #3 leaking slightly on the first build (nobody else could hear it, but once you hear something you can't un-hear it....sure enough there was sooty evidence on strip-down). So, no point in not doing the job properly. System back off again, and time to get the die grinder out with a nice sharp edged cutter, to back-off those welds. Not the most elegant looking solution, but sod-all choice really. At least now the flanges are nicely "snugged" down.

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Wastegates are both now back on, albeit not in their final orientation until the engine is back in the car, HVAC pipework is back in and other plumbing connected.

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The engine half of the wiring harness is also now installed. Slightly different mounting positions than before. Finishing of this will be done once I get the final corner of the tinwork mounted. Can't do this with the engine on the stand, the basket impedes it ever-so-slightly.

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Cold charge pipe and BOV is on...

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...and a gratuitous aerial shot....

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Hi Spencer,

Your engine is just magnificent, thank you for these beautiful photos! :)
The aluminum thermal protection is adjusted very well, would you have more detailed photos of his adjustment?

Pat

Thanks mate, I actually enjoy the photographing and documenting as much as the building.

Here you go, some photos of the aluminium heat shield...useful?

A quick jaunt over to New Romney to visit Simon and Alan at Sileck, primarily to get the hall effect sensors terminated for the crank and cam position pickups, but also to drop over the sub-harness for the boost and traction control (and boost gauge/shift light outputs). With the new ECU and reworked main loom, its just a little too short, so we're remaking it.

I also spoke with Simon about remaking my non-ECU engine loom, i.e., the charging circuit with other things like dashboard gauge connections (oil pressure, digital boost gauge), reverse switch on transmission, starter motor connections, etc. Way-back-when I made a whole new loom rather than butcher the original harness (now safely stored, as it wasn't brittle). It was fine, but nowhere near the standards of Simons wiring, and using chunkier cable than Simon typically uses. And not covered with Raychem sleeving; no big deal really apart from where it's having to conform around some tight bends, the heatshrink has rucked and stretched....yep, it's "OCD/OTT Time" again....I'm going to remove it this weekend and take it down to Simon over the Xmas break, and we'll remake it in a slimline, super flexible way.

Lastly, while I was there I bought 6m of 0.5" Raychem DR-25 heatshrink to replace the tatty and split clear heatshrink that I used to cover the boost controller hoses between the boost valve and the wastegates. I must've used some cheap shrink, as it's burst like a banana skin in places.

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An hour or so this evening spent removing and re-sleeving was well worthwhile. I reckon it looks 10x better now, and will be far more durable.

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Actually, I like it so much, I may well also do the remaining sensor lines and the vacuum line to the BOV.

Thank you very much Spencer, it is very useful, I shall make certainly this protection on my engine. :)