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Help! Clutch Lever Cross Shaft Installed Backwards
I'm in the process of trying to separate the G50 trans from my 3.6 motor, and need to pull the clutch actuating fork cross shaft. The PO has the shaft installed backwards, so that there is no tapped hole in the end of the shaft facing out to use a puller on.
I know this has probably happened before, and would like to know the best way to pull the shaft out. I guess that I could attempt to drill and tap a hole into the end of the shaft that is exposed to me. I wonder if the shaft would just spin making drilling and tapping a hole a PITA. What else can I do to get the cross shaft out so that I can split the tranny from the motor? Thanks in advance.
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Ernie 98 993 C2S - Arena Red/Beige 76 914/6 3.2 Conversion - Estorill Blue/Coral Red |
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Lubricant and gravity?
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Henry Schmidt SUPERTEC PERFORMANCE Ph: 760-728-3062 Email: supertec1@earthlink.net |
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Are you serious? I could spray Kroil in there, but then what? Motor and tranny are sitting on my workbench, so I can't easily tilt them.
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Ernie 98 993 C2S - Arena Red/Beige 76 914/6 3.2 Conversion - Estorill Blue/Coral Red |
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Ernie, I just reread your post and I guess my reading comprehension is in the crapper today.... Oh well, some days are better than others.............
Bruce has a good idea for separating them, good luck.
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Henry Schmidt SUPERTEC PERFORMANCE Ph: 760-728-3062 Email: supertec1@earthlink.net Last edited by Henry Schmidt; 02-03-2012 at 03:44 PM.. |
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Drop the starter and remove the clutch package. At least you can split the engine off
Bruce |
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Quote:
I apologise for this repsonse; but, frankly at this juncture the last thing I need is sarcasm or misdirected humor. Respectfully,
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Ernie 98 993 C2S - Arena Red/Beige 76 914/6 3.2 Conversion - Estorill Blue/Coral Red |
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Bruce,
I have the engine/tranny sitting on my workbench. I have the starter pulled. How, do I now pull the clutch without first pulling the cross shaft? Please clarify. Thanks for your response.
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Ernie 98 993 C2S - Arena Red/Beige 76 914/6 3.2 Conversion - Estorill Blue/Coral Red |
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Quote:
BTW: on the internet sarcasm is generally posted in green.
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Henry Schmidt SUPERTEC PERFORMANCE Ph: 760-728-3062 Email: supertec1@earthlink.net |
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I would guess you would remove the bolts holding the pressure plate to the flywheel.
-Andy
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Andy beat me to the answer
Bruce |
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Andy,
Thanks for your response. Can I access the pressure plate bolts through the starter access hole? I'm not down in the garage and can't visualize it. If so, I can bar the engine over and take the bolts out slowly. Then, when I separate the trans, the plate and disk should remain on the trans output shaft as I pull the trans, right? That will still leave the release lever and cross shaft installed in the bell housing. Is there access to the back side of the shaft so that I can tap it out once I have access to the interior of the bell housing?
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Ernie 98 993 C2S - Arena Red/Beige 76 914/6 3.2 Conversion - Estorill Blue/Coral Red |
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Quote:
OK. Took a look at it, and I can see that I can pull the pressure plate bolts one at a time. I am attempting to epoxy a bolt to the bare end of the cross shaft hoping that it will not take a lot of force to pull the shaft out. I'll give that a try first, and if that fails, I'll take your idea to remove the bolts holding the pressure plate to the flywheel.
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Thought, when you remove the steel retainer there is a fiber dust cover that comes off to reveal the threads of the cross pin.
Did you remove the dust cover with the steel retainer? Bruce |
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Quote:
Did not see any plastic cover or plug behind the shaft retainer. My car is a 98, so may be a little different than earlier years (I am finding that on other items as well). On the tranny, there was a plastic cover plate with a gooseneck down facing vent over the cavity in the trans case. Three bolts and the cover comes off. Removing the cover reveals a kind of triangular shaped cavity about 2" deep. There is the expected metal retainer held in place by one bolt. When I removed the retainer, I expected to see the threaded end of the cross shaft; however, what I saw was a shaft without a tapped hole. No other plastic or metal items in the cavity. I will look again this morning and try to take a picture.
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I was talking with knowledge of the late 911 and the C-2. Thants my references.
Bruce |
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That cross shaft is not hardened, so you should be able to drill it fairly easily. Just make sure to use a new bit and some cutting fluid.
Or else weld a bolt on to the end of the shaft? You certainly can't get the ground clamp onto the shaft itself. But the alloy case should be a decent conductor to get "continuity" to the shaft so you can weld on it.
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Epoxied bolt worked great! Cross shaft came right out. Thanks all. Back to the teardown.
Do any of your guys have a source for the rubber ells and tees needed to rejuvinate the vacuum operated constols system on this motor? Porsche carries some of the fittings, but some them are marked as NLA. Those that are available are grossly expensive.
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I've found such "L's" and "T's" at Ace Hardware. They are for drip irrigation systems. Probably not the best quality for your vacuum system but they might be better than the old parts.
-Andy
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