HELP - Rookie build, going to 3.5L

[jdbunda]

Good luck, Allen! I am in the midst of my rebuild, also. I can't yet boast of my success, but my mantra has been it's about the journey, not the destination. it is amazing how some of the simplest-seeming tasks can turn into hours of work, especially with rookie uncertainty. I hope your build goes well!!


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[mreid]

What am I missing here? You have a Carrera, but it doesn't look like it has hydraulic tensioners.

Great project by the way!

[impactbumper]

Originally Posted by mreid

What am I missing here? You have a Carrera, but it doesn't look like it has hydraulic tensioners.

Great project by the way!

my initial thought with the absence of oil line on the right bank. This might also explain the pistons.

[Allan Kelsey]

Here's another angle from the front of the motor.

[Allan Kelsey]

Right side.

[Allan Kelsey]

Engine and tranny are out and I am now breaking things down, sending them off for rebuilding and collecting parts.

Next collection on my list is ignition for the dual plug set-up.
I have a used 964 distributor that needs a rebuild kit - where do I get such a thing???

The dissy came with a twin coil pack and this housing.


I know I need new ignition cables etc, but what else do I need to make it functional?
I understand Andial signal splitters are scarce these days, so is this what I need?

[RFP]

Check your PMs, Allan...

Rob

[Allan Kelsey]

So in the process of removing the cylinder heads and completely disassembling the motor, 3 cylinder head stud nuts stripped and would not come loose.

Lots of lube and still no good. The rusted heads stripped in the inside before they would let go. So, cleaned the nuts, dried them well, put some burnishing paste in the hole to add to grip and retried the allen head nut removal tool.

Better!! Got 2 out of the three removed.
The last one is seriously stuck.
Ordered an ERWIN tool set with fat reverse thread removal bits to remove the stubborn nut. Once they came in, the final nut eventually gave way, but dang!! SO much force needed.

Turns out I have half steel, half dilivar head studs in the block.



Here's the offending party!

[Allan Kelsey]

Now that all the parts are off to the machine shop, for cleaning and prep work for the 100mm cylinders, I am tackling the ignition problem for the twin plug plan.

I found this 964 dizzy, coils and ignition pack.



My plan is to see if I can use the ignition modules to manage the firing for the powerplant.

[911 Rod]

Looks like you have it under control!

I would have experts check tolerances on the internals.

[Allan Kelsey]

Waiting on engine parts to return, so Im working on other options.

I removed stripped, cleaned, painted and rebuilt the brake calipers.



Also, I have needed to recover the dash for a while.
The Texas heat has dried and shrank the leather on the dash, which peeled up the corner edges of the dash pad and warped it.
So I removed it, and it needs to be recovered, but it isnt straight.
Im not sure how to straighten it, so this is where I landed.

I mixed a 50/50 mixture of water based wood glue (Elmers or Liquid nails) and water.
I drew it up into a BBQ injecting needle and syringe left over from Thanksgiving.
I injected the mixture into the warped areas of the dash pad.





Then I heated the area with a heat gun and clamped the area with braces and clamps and left it to dry. The water helped to spread the 'glue' into a wider area, the heat moved it around a little more and activated the drying process as well as aiding in the softening of the pad to allow for shaping.

[Allan Kelsey]

Despite all the mixed reviews over the power advantages (or lack thereof) of extrude honing the intake manifold in the 3.2 motor, in the interests of wot air delivery I elected to have it done.
Im trying to work my way toward 300 normally aspirated crank horsepower and believe this will aid in getting me there. I dont have the time/patience or budget to dyno the finished motor with and then without the honed manifold to finally put all the speculations to rest, but I can see how that would provide conclusive evidence of its effectiveness at different rpms...

Here are some before and after shots of the inside of the manifold.

[Allan Kelsey]

Originally Posted by 911 Rod

Looks like you have it under control!

I would have experts check tolerances on the internals.

Motor had 170 000 miles. Everything looked GREAT. Wear on the original cylinders was so minimal I could still see the criss cross pattern on the cylinder walls.
Normal bearing wear, but even the oil pump gear walls show no signs of wear.

Very encouraging.

[911 Rod]

Originally Posted by Allan Kelsey

Motor had 170 000 miles. Everything looked GREAT. Wear on the original cylinders was so minimal I could still see the criss cross pattern on the cylinder walls.
Normal bearing wear, but even the oil pump gear walls show no signs of wear.

Very encouraging.

It is so impressive how these 30 year old engines last the test of mileage.

Wonder how the new ones do.

[scarceller]

Subscribed!

[Tippy]

Do yourself a favor, and put a larger throttle body on. The stock 63mm frankly sucks. The ports outflow the TB I bet. I put a 75mm on and holy crap, the car is sooooo responsive.

[scarceller]

Tippy,

Can you fit a 75mm onto the stock intake manifold?
What TB are you using?

You can also bore open the stock one up to 66mm but if you know of a way to fit a 75mm that would be real nice to see pictures.

With my 80mm MAF the restriction is the TB, my MAF with S&B filter are wide open at 80mm at the filter side of the MAF and 76mm at the side that mates to the 90 deg rubber boot. I think Allan is going to use my MAF for this motor. I'm currently working on his dual coils to fire them directly from the DME, no Andial Splitter needed.

Originally Posted by Tippy

Do yourself a favor, and put a larger throttle body on. The stock 63mm frankly sucks. The ports outflow the TB I bet. I put a 75mm on and holy crap, the car is sooooo responsive.

[Tippy]

Originally Posted by scarceller

Tippy,

Can you fit a 75mm onto the stock intake manifold?
What TB are you using?

You can also bore open the stock one up to 66mm but if you know of a way to fit a 75mm that would be real nice to see pictures.

With my 80mm MAF the restriction is the TB, my MAF with S&B filter are wide open at 80mm at the filter side of the MAF and 76mm at the side that mates to the 90 deg rubber boot. I think Allan is going to use my MAF for this motor. I'm currently working on his dual coils to fire them directly from the DME, no Andial Splitter needed.

Hey Sal, cgarr asked to, I guess a thread is due.

It wasn't easy, but knowing now how to, doing another wouldn't take me long at all.

[scarceller]

Tippy,

Yes a thread just on this topic would be great!

Originally Posted by Tippy

Hey Sal, cgarr asked to, I guess a thread is due.

It wasn't easy, but knowing now how to, doing another wouldn't take me long at all.

[RFP]

Good morning, Allan... What's the latest progress?