...and the Rod & Chain Holding Tools, Thanks Wayne :D

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489374097.JPG

Home Depot $30

Tomorrow, will Pelican Will Call: Orings, Washers and Oil Pump Tab locks then Sealing Time FINAL.

Is that a homemade "yoke" ?

^^^, not sure, not mine. I liberated it from the net :D

It's lookin really good Jim!.. Good stuff!

BTW, if you purchase a long extension, I suggest that you consider getting the 'wobble' type. At times, you will will find that the 'wobble' extensions are very helpful.

<a title="'Wobble' Extensions" href=" http://www.mactools.ca/en-ca/Ratchets-and-Accessories/Extensions/584dbc02-1d78-4ebe-b89e-a2eb0106ad2c/Wobble-Extensions">'Wobble' Extensions</a>

'Keep the faith' Bro :cool:

My technique for countersinking holes is apply heavy pressure so it makes either spirals or thick chips, then back off with light pressure and maintain some speed to clean up any burrs.

Have to be careful though in aluminum since it digs fast and can get out of concentricity easily.

^^^, Oh yeah, noticed that on the first test one then I did drag the tool to smooth out the thick chips and emory cloth help clean the sharp burrs.

+1, yeap, sucker is softer than expected.

I am still amazed how the previous rebuilder or Factory for that matter did not counter sink all the case thru holes, just nut side but did not even do the two behind the oil cooler either. Geez.

Word has it that the original o-rings were substantially thinner and that's why they got by w/out being smashed during original assembly. I think Henry Schmidt shared that info. Still doesn't fully explain why they did only one side? Maybe they figured that the nut side should be chamfered since the washer could rotate when tightening, but the bolt side wouldn't rotate?

Ah so desu-ka :-D

A fella posted on the sealant thread, he had his buddy hold the washer in place as he tightened. Can't imagine Porsche doing that, just would be overly cost prohibitive to have to employees working on the same area, makes no business sense.

Well, we fixed it, huh :D

Case Sealed :D
 

Doh, those Holders were too wide. No biggy, I wish I had a second pair of hands :eek:

IMPORTANT, Test fitting is a must to get an idea of how it goes back together. I highly recommend if you have an opportunity to help someone rebuild, DO IT! To get a feel for assembly, is a priceless experience, Reading and Videos just do not do justice.

2nd fitting went very smoothly, besides the bloody holders, oh well.

Actually, glad I test fitted, I found a metal/piece of aluminum dust particle on #4 bearing ( Damn Hand Chamfering ), popped right off but it sure would not be fun to have it wear into the bearings or crank.

Success!

Case Sealed, the ACID BRUSH is my new best friend :D, I used Master Henry Schimidt's method of tightening with no O-rings and let sit over night. I will install O-rings with Dow55 Tomorrow.

I concur with Jameel, this really put less pressure on the doing the sealing in time.

I used new M8 Oval Lock Nuts and M8 Crush Washer. PURTY :D

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489471047.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489471047.JPG

This Stage, no left over bolts or nuts, :cool:

Time for Cold Onehttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat6.gif

Installed ARP Head Bolts, Wow what a time consuming task but I did it :D

All 135.00MM top of thread to case.

Rigged the rods with some Rubber Bands to test rotation, SUCCESS :D

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Looking good! Why did you use oval nuts on the case perimeter instead of nylon? My 3.0 had nylon.

Nice!

Who makes the crank pulley?

I used oval nuts because that is what was on her. I love the nylon ones but always worried about heat cycles with nylon.

Clewett Industries make the Pulley, they make the spark plug wires too. About 5 miles from me too :-)

Draco A50G

Congrats on your engine build. I have a question related to this build. Since you also list POC, are you going to run the car or? Just wondering if you will ever enjoy the extra anticipated HP on the track vs a few seconds on the freeway.

Oh yeah, well I will take her on a DE just to see what she can do but nothing crazy because something always breaks afterwards.

But I will dyno her and take her on my favorite test track :D

Update: All pistons in Cylinders, ready to mate to case and place heads & Cam tower. After deck height check of course.

Tool Review: WISECO RCS09800 true 98MM Tapered Spring Compressor is the BOMB! No hammering, slips right on once you position the spring correctly, with the gap side in first it compress right in then remaining rings just follow suit. On my list of my favorite tools to use. :-)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1354250247.jpg

Also the 964 Wrist Pin Tool modified:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1098899496.jpg

You have to cut this very expensive tool 1/4" on both side tabs to make it work for the 3.2 & 3.4 Pistons, you learn how to use it when you put on the wrist pins on one side first, WORKS GREAT. I believe the Stomski works about the same way but with a much thinner holder. I like the Porsche tool because it does not allow the clip to fall into the engine if you miss-align it.

Agreed on the wiseco tool.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Deck Height: 1.01MM :D using 0.50 Case Gaskets. Love it :D

Long Block Assembled :D
 

Half Way:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1490266651.JPG

All spinning fine. Heads and Cylinders are so Purty. LOL Case is dirty but inside is spic and span, like the CP pistons :P

Wanted to install Cam Towers and Cam Shafts but just too tired, need some rest :eek: or will make mistakes. So far so GOOD!

Dang it, Movie night with Mrs, can work on the car, she just pulled up :-(

Good idea to rest.

Your thread is an inspiration and I hope to get to the same stage sometime. Still in the midst of an engine teardown, fun but slooooow.

Shoot my sister lives up yonder, Maybe I can stop by and say Hey when you decide to do the tear down.

Dang it saw LIFE, what a POS, the scientist are so freakin stupid, only Dead Pool guy made it sort of interesting until ... ( nope will not spoil it for you, have to suffer too )

Don't forget to install the cooling tin/sheetmetal for your heads & cylinders

Lol

Yes sir

I was waiting for BBQ paint to dry in the oven :)

:D Just be sure that BBQ paint is solvent resistant? I used BBQ black on engine tin once before and brake parts cleaner removed it almost instantly!

Doh

I found that Dupli-color engine enamel and appliance epoxy both resist gas well, if allowed to cure for a while.

LOL, I was just about to buy that then I decided I wanted a matt finish.

I painted my engine tin with POR-15. Too shiny but has held up well. No issues with gas. Recommended

Sorry - I'm a bit late to the game. Had to laugh at your previous comment - BTDT...

Very similar to my experience & comments in the lower part of page 1 of my rebuild thread:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/785959-gordos-3-2l-engine-rebuild-ready-reassemble.html

Good luck Draco - it's looking good.

Gordo

Or the case assembly whenever I get there ! But yes, swing by if you have time.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1490848244.jpg

:confused:

Shhhhh, please don't tell my wifey :-o
 

So I was getting really tired of hand cleaning my Cam towers ( no scotch brite, thanks for the reminder Master KTL ) and Chain Housing so................ I did this, Pots and Pans on HIGH HEAT Prewash no heat dry, removed and dried immediately ( Note, DO NOT ALLOW IT TO SIT, ALUMINUM DOES NOT LIKE WATER SITTING ON IT ) with Compressed Air and rubbed down with WD40:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1490810934.JPG

SHHHHHH

Don't tell my wifey please

Chain Alignment and Timing Done!:

Wow, amazing how much the old chain stretched and new bearings changes the need for shims, Removed 1 on Driver side and 2 from Passanger side. Thanks again Master KTL for loan of the Stomski Tools, You saved my Arse yet again :-)

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Right on the MONEY 1.25MM on Both Sides, it only took me 3 tries HAPPY DANCE :D

:cool:Wife was not at home.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1490815927.jpg

RFLOL!

Mine came home and asked what I was washing, I told her I was maintaining the washer. LOL.

Well sorta true, I did have to wash it 3 times :-) to get rid of the oil residue

Nice move using the dishwasher. Amazing what a little bit of hot water can do! I have an economy ultrasonic cleaner with heat that is just big enough to contain a cam housing. Man, what a blessing that thing is. I HATED cleaning the cam housings before I got that ultrasonic cleaner.

And that GSF copy of the Stomski chain parallelism tool is pretty slick, eh?

Oh Master KTL, you know it :-)

So much easier than struggling with the bar. Having two hands on the caliper for a more accurate reading is priceless.

I am in the process of counting, cleaning and packaging your tools back to it's home :D.

Seriously, Thank You! God Bless You and Your Family!SmileWavy

Haha, nice build documentation, but damn Jim, if you knew how a dishwasher worked, you would not wash car parts in a machine that you're still actively using to wash dishes. Reason is that in the bottom of the dishwasher is a wet sump that holds and retains all your food particles and likely grease and silt from your motor, that will continue to recycle and spread to all your subsequent wash loads, getting on your dishes. Not to mention all the grease that flows and sticks inside though the re circulation pumps and hoses under and behind the machine. If you remove the blade and screen at the bottom of the dishwasher, you'll likely find a sump of about 1 or 2 gallons of water that just sits there that will shoot around on your next wash. How do I know this? I couldn't figure out for while why my dishes still smelled funky after several washes. Running bleach through the dishwasher didn't change anything. Much of the water recycles around in a wash from this sump, it doesn't just drain out continuously. Not until I took apart the wash blade and sump screen at the bottom did I find a fine silt of all kinds of old food particles that had been heated and bleached that were in cracks and crevices that was the cause of the stink.

Kitchen Aid?:D

Hey Doc!

Fancy seeing you here :-)

Yeah, I know there is always liquid from previous washes still in the washer like the genius who designed the clothes washer.

That is why I ran 6 heavy duty cycles afterwards and used bleach with lemon sent.

Well if anything, I will treat you to dinner and you can have a taste of motor oil with our food :-)

I may have to take it apart later to get rest of the crapola out of it, shoot I do this for my clothes washer, incredible how all that soap scum and nasties still remain, boy do we live in a fantasy world, It is the Matrix I tell you :eek: