Frigidaire Pro, but Kitchen Aid, Whirlpool... all the same thing. You'll find the bottom of the diswasher is designed to be easily cleaned out by the user, like a lint trap in a dryer. Pull up the propeller blade, and turn the collar ring that holds down the sump screen, lift out the screen and go to town.

OK, I had to look! Well if my Bosch DW has more than a cup of water left in it I can't see it when I pull the strainer out. BTW, I had cleaned my case and heads of most gunk before I put them in and I did not notice any residual odor.
Back to our normal thread...

Ah, it's a Bosch :-)

Weekend Fun:

Just finished wire brushing all the carbon out of the innards and hot washed via Dish Washer, again :-P. Oh man, a ton of carbon came out. I think she will breathe better now :-)

For added fun, I used Craft Store's Oil Based Red Paint for metal on the Logo.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1491065074.JPG

Looking good. Is extrude hone in your future?

I was thinking about it but probably not. Want to see what my current set up is going to yield in HPs before squeezing out every drop of the HPs. ( Ring Seating MOST Important )http://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat3.gif

Update, all accesorries installed, just need intake and Throttle Body

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1491190162.JPG

Engine is staring to get to big for two cars in the garage, thank goodness I can rotate the engine on the stand :D

Note, Put on the rear tin before the muffler and the air duct shroud to measure the cross member to the intakes or it will never fit after it.

Wow!..You've more or less finished the job Jim!..You've become quite a talented little devil eh! :D...Your tranny, and now a complete engine rebuild - Very impressive!

Hats of to You!!!

LOL, thanks Brother.

Yeah, amazed that I can remember how everything goes back together but Lots of Help here.

Thanks to all :-)

930-110-573-01 Intake Manifold Rubber Sleeve
 

Update:

Waiting on the Intake Manifold Rubber Sleeve 930-110-573-01.

I think I could have re-used it but I really did not like the strange deformation at the bottom portion of the sleeve. This one is not an easy replacement as it requires removal of one of the intakes at a minimum.

Here is my old sleeve:

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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1491323815.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1491323815.JPG

That crease really concerns me plus oil residue just sits there. That pic even after I cleaned off the crease, it remained gummy wet and porous, so definitely compromised.

Side Note: Throttle Body, no sealant but new black o-ring that is in the Wrightwood Seal Kit, Allen Bolts = 7.3 ft lbs ( 9.9Nm )

I'm guessing that crease is from misalignment of the manifolds. I guess it was easier to make the manifold two-piece instead of one

You know the way to get rid of that oil residue in there? Disconnect the oil tank vent hose from the throttle body rubber elbow and connect it to a catch can.

Good Idea :D Master KTL :D

That may be an issue with the smog people. I have a catch can, but am exempt from the CARB regs. TTL.

There is got to be a way to put an inline filter or trap liken to a gas line sediment trap

https://cloudfront.zoro.com/product/...08B1vfo9x4.JPG

Heck, even a Drip Leg

http://www.jwkhomeinspections.com/sy...s/drip_leg.png

http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225...QBdl97cAzQ.jpg

Jim, that hose is super soft naturally. You can simply loosen the clamps, allow the ends to situate themselves, then tighten.

Absolutely good point about the smog cops you guys have to deal with. That said, it's not too much work to have a catch can and dedicated hose you use for it. When you're scheduled to do your inspection, swap out the catch can & its personal hose, remove the plug in the throttle body elbow, replace the original hose connecting the throttle body to the oil tank.

Eh, I am only testing anyways :-)

Damn, Delivery from Atlanta is slower the molasses

Update:

All assembled, AFM on after she is in :-) Break In FRIDAY!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1491477969.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1491477969.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1491477969.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1491477969.JPG

Pray for me Fellas
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/clap.gif

Good job !

We are with you !!!

May the ring seating force be with you !! Will be right behind you in about a month (I hope)

Assembly Complete!
 

Thanks Fellas :-)

Update: Gear Box mated to Engine, Installing this Friday Afternoon :D

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1491558309.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1491558309.JPG

...and just in time to return Gilles' Engine Stand and Yoke, Merci Beaucoup!

Master KTL, Yours is on it way too, I have not forgotten sir SmileWavy

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1491558309.JPG

Next, Install, Easy Peasy, this is only my 7th time :rolleyes:

Oh Yeah, no left over Bolts and/or Nuts
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/suppo...s/beerchug.gifhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/suppo...s/beerchug.gifhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/suppo...s/beerchug.gifSandwich Baggies and Sharpie is your best friend :D Also taking the time to leave bolts where they belong, yeah extra time but Heck, they all went in the correct places, WOoHoO :D

Very cool. Can't wait to see and hear the start-up video. Looks very nice.

Rock on. Startup and break-in will be a piece of cake.

Congrats! BTDT, doing it again though currently....

Great!..Good on ya mate!!. Like "let the good times roll" eh ! SmileWavy

Break in #1-2

Filled with 30 Weight Rotella

Hand Cranked and Starter Cranked, ALL GOOD

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Too late to start in my Darn HOA :-(

Will start and 20 minute at 2000 RPMs, Dump Oil, change filter and prepare for break in drive for 50 Miles.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1491710269.JPG
I think I earned this :D

You definitely earned that brew. Job well done.

20 Minute Break in & 50 Miles Break In SUCCESS!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

20 Minute Break In.

SUCCESS!

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I goofed, forgot to set up zip tie on throttle to keep her at 2000 RPMs that is why video split and I can not figure out how to merge the three videos but I think you can see what I was doing.

The last video is te last 2 minutes, NO LEAKS, NO CRAZY NOISES, only Valve Noise but that was on purpose, left them a bit loose just in case pistons want to smack them :eek:

DRUCK right on target
Temp raised properly

Absolutely NO SMOKING, was kinda surprised about this, was expecting allot more :eek:

Little to no shavings on magnets ( on 2 oil changes )

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1491811488.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1491811488.JPG

I did notice sparkly stuff in the dirty oil but I assume it was the rings bedding into the cylinder walls as planned.

2nd oil change was less after my 50 miles Break In Drive. Accell and Decel hard upto redline, no lugging and nothing under 2000 RPM's. People hated me on the freeway, 30MPH to 90MPH :cool:

25 Miles to SW CHIP to pick up 3.4L Chip :D THANKS STEVE WONG!
http://www.911chips.com/chip1th.jpg
SWChips.com - Products
SMOOOOOOTTTHHHHHHHH Idle :D

Congratulations -- I've been following with great interest, as no doubt have many other lurkers. Job well done. I'm having a beer in your honour!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Very nice!
Was wondering how the startup went.

Always a "Big Pucker" moment when you spin a fresh overhaul for the first time.

Excellent work. Sounds sweet. Congratulations - you deserve another beer.

Oh Thank You Fellas,

All the credit goes to you all you for your continued contribution, moral support and guidance. I could not have done it without this great brotherhood of exceptional gentlemen.

Again, my humble gratitue to you all!

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Congrats, now go to Willow Springs and turn an leisurely 1:32 on big Willow to break it all in.

I wish but I don't want to break anything prematurely :eek:

Post 50 Mile Check, YOU MUST CHECK ALL THE NUTS:

All went well until I check the torque on the fasteners. Specifically #6 bottom left corner Head Stud ( Yes, only ONE ) it pulled :-(. I tried to torque it but it just spun and started to pull the stud out. NOT GOOD.

So I will attempt to extract the stud in situ with red loctite over night using the old OEM barrel nut, assess the damage and if okay will use red loctite to insert the ARP studs by cutting a slot for a screw driver to seat in the stud. I KNOW HALF arse measure but if that does not work I will need to drop and TIME Cert the case.

Eh no biggy, will remove cylinder with pistons still in place.

I was told by an wise old PELICAN that I can use new 574 to disolve/soften up the old 574 for the cam housing. :-) Going to test that if I strip down the p-side

That is some bad luck. Hard to believe one of your studs pulled, bummer.

You can keep the heads on the cam housing and leave the cams in place. No need to remove rockers or remove heads from the cam housing as they can be removed as a unit.

Yeah, I was thinking of using loctite, should have went with my gut

Oh well, good news, more hps :D

That is the plan to keep them on and get new gasket and piece the p-side seals, oh the joy :-)

Wow pulled engine in 2 hours, getting faster every time

Damn, that sucks. Don't hear of that too often on AL cases. What did you torque the heads to? Have you had your torque wrench calibration checked recently?

I think it was the stud I removed. I may have stripped the hole upon removal.
I torqued the to 19 then 38 ft lbs per ARP specs.

Yeap, they were calibrated using a stretch gauge on the rod bolts, right on the money.