That would do it, they need lots of heat.

Diagnosis
 

Update:

Finally removed P-Side Cam with Heads

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1492970296.JPG

Bottom lower corner #6 pulled from case

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1492970296.JPG

No apparent damage to heads or cylinder, finger nail test

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1492970296.JPG

Bonus, the walls look great no signs of adverse wear or tear after 500 miles.

Ready for surgery, split between TimeSert of Case Saver, Wayne likes the Case Savers for Mag Cases I wonder if TimeSert will be find here? TimeSert is 24.5MM long not sure about CaseSaver's out course pitch and size. I have the kit for the TimeSert
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1492970739.JPG

I'm sick for you, thst has to be disheartening.

Anyways, did you clean the piston and combustion chambers, or were they that clean?

No big deal glad I don't have to tamper with D-side.

The good thing is I can check ring seating and piston to valve clearance are good to go :-)

Oh no, I wiped them down to look for irregular wear pattern, wiped very easily surprisingly.

Nice

good news and nice post

Thank you for sharing

Well Done!
 

Hi Jim...It appears that you have more patience than Job! - Again... 'Hat's off to you Bro" SmileWavy

Thanks for the well wishes Fellas.

So, upon recommendation of Master KTL, I decided to go Case Savers, the M16 ( 14MM X 24MM x 2.0 Pitch ), just waiting for taper/threader. Maybe over kill for an aluminum case, but better safe than tear down again due to pulling.

Built a jig with left over aluminum and copper tubing to help me thread in straight, no need to porcupine the repair :-D

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1493220288.JPG

Drilling holes to use the cylinder place holders and a pilot hole for the threader/taper.

Might make another bar to make it even more accurate.

Thank goodness it is only one, if it was more, I would definitely take the case to a Machine Shop to avoid the notorious porcupine affect

Great thread! I could only hope to handle the pulled head stud as well as you have...

David

Fixed and Torqued to Spec!
 

Update:

Success, my little jig actually worked!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1493611082.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1493611203.JPG

Believe me I was pooping bricks while doing this with the M16 Drill Bit and 14MM x 24 X 2.0 CASE SAVER. :eek:

19 ft lbs then 38 ft lbs. DONE!

Now to put everything back together and re-check timing :D

Timing Verified, Repair complete!
 

Whoa!

I gotta tell ya, life is funny :D

Lucky me, timing did not change, wow. fortunately I thought ahead and gambled by marking the sprocket before removal, glad I did. I am sure this never happens the first time checking timing, :-) well maybe Nick FUlljames :-P. But my ghetto technique worked :eek:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1493622810.JPG

Yeah, I took the intake off to prepare for splitting the engine, yes split because I fuched myself when I dropped a wrist pin in there using the stupid expensive Porsche SST ( which totally sucks btw, Thanks Porsche! ) In desperation I used my HF video borescope and luckily found it on my first attempt and used a magnet to pull that little sucker out. OMG!

I love YouTube, trying to find a proper tool I stumbled on to this guy, he showed how to properly install the damn pins without gimmicky tools or craziness. Just a small flathead screwdriver and my thumbs, WOW. 3-5 seconds, that is all it took. BINGO!

<iframe width="854" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/rJvMn_VlJ4E" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Well, I took this opportunity to clean up the aircraft tar like sealant that made it's way into the intake from the intake gaskets.

RFLOL, that is the problem my job, if I was jobless this would have been done 2 weeks ago :D

Eh, I fear no more with this car. I can do it all now

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat5.gif

Mahle tips and tricks installing the wire locks

https://youtu.be/3kdhGBCpuxM

I would like to see this work on JE cir-clips. NO WAY. AHIK.
I spent some time today making my own installer. A piece of EMT tubing, a 14mm bolt with the head machined to fit in the tubing, and a long socket extension. Worked like a champ.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1493694700.jpg

the above method does work on JE clips i will admit to bloody fingers when completed though.

I gave up after about 30 minutes of chasing circlips across my garage. One is still MIA. I did have the head studs installed, which may complicated things.

I spent less time making my tool than cussing about trying to install them without using it.

I have installed all 12 in the past without the tool. For some reason this time it just wasn't working for me.

I have to get new clips when i took it all apart a couple went sailing across the garage never to be found again.

Those JE circlips were hell. Some went so easy. And some took all the allotted time you had to work on the engine that day.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I spent a half an hour shooting them across the garage and digging them out of the motor, before I gave up and made a tool to do the job. Took 15 minutes to make the tool and then 30 seconds each to install them.

Success!
 

Ah man, are those JE clips bigger than CP's? I thought they were the same thickness. I must be lucky.

Well in any case, all ready to go back into the car.

For the heck of it, actually in retrospect, I should have done this the first time. May have found the leak but the head stud did not pull then, Hmmm.

I did a cold leak down on stand at 100 PSI:

#1 90/88 (2%)
#6 90/86 (4%)*
#2 90/88 (2%)
#4 90/86 (4%)*
#3 90/88 (2%)
#5 90/87 (3%)*

So within 2% of each other cold seems pretty good, no?

*I suspect due to me having to remove the cylinders on P-side because of the lost of that freakin wrist pin clip, I had to re-clock/confirm the ring positions. Will need to break them in again :-). Happy the D-side kept consistent :D

Cigar Smoke tested, no leaks.

Take 2,

SUCCESS! No leaks after 50 mile break in. No shavings on oil dump.

Will check head studs in 500 miles.

Whoa, she feels even stronger, if that is possible :D very snappy/torquee

Good news!
Congrats!

Great news, it's a good feeling when things work out in the end.

Indeed.

Moral of the story, you need heat to remove the old head studs or you will take material on the way out :eek: or let the machine shop do it like I did for 20 of them.

I think I am going to drive to Fresno to visit Moms and put the 500 Miles right away :-)

Okay Fellas last and final update:

500 mile valves & head stud check. CHECK :D

All tight to spec no leaks. WOOHOO!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1495161173.JPG

Next Up:

Throttle Body Boring ala Steve Wong!

http://www.911chips.com/throttleb.jpg

http://www.911chips.com/engine.htm

Good stuff!! :D :cool: SmileWavy

3000 Mile Update:

Much Success and Joy with a little hick up.

The new bored out TB was the best $$ invested, She pulls like a bat of out hell :-)

Can't help myself being lead footed, so quiet and smooth. LEAK FREE :D So clean under there :D

I had a little misfire coming back from a 350 mile round trip to Fresno and back, it was my #2 fuel injector, stuck, tapped on it and all was good again. Very easy fix. if it happens again, will remove and send back to cleaners. Probably debris from sitting the 6 months and 2nd removal for the stud repair.

May use the BG44K treatment for added insurance.

This is a great build and inches me closer to tackling my own rebuild when the time comes. Great job!

Great to hear the update is positive!

Berryman B12 Chemtool (available at most auto parts stores) is really good too. Man does that stuff clean up exhaust valves!

BG 44K Fuel Cleaner
 

I used to put a can in the tank for every customer service.Great product.Their MOA oil additive is excellent as well.Fred

It's nice to hear that 'all is well' Jim!..That was a big job that you took on... Well done! SmileWavy

Almost a full year, wow how time flies when you are speeding on the freeway :-)

All 5X5!

Nice work, doc and pics Brother Jim. Rubber band trick is a fine one! :)

Thank you Brother Karl!

I highly recommend the 3.4 at a minimum. I wasn't brave enough to go 3.6, need to give my smog guy a chance to pass my car every two years :D

Zoom Zoom

Quite a journey! Love this thread and the build. Unfortunately I'll be going through the same with my 3.2, as I have a broken main crank bearing and some truly unfortunate engine sounds :eek:

And yes, I have Kolben**** cylinders :rolleyes:

I'm thinking 3.4SS with 10.5:1 CR and twin plug with VEMS ecu and upgraded injectors. The Mahle cylinders and piston kit is about 5K, and a 98mm bore'n plate + new pistons is about 2.4K. Add ECU and coilpacks and :D:D:D

How much was the custom pistons from EBS?

Smart move! (Mystery of "price to be paid for living in beautiful CA" is answered... = .2 Were you in swampy FL, could have gone wholehog. :D But then, roads are much better where you are than here.)

Per Don Weaver at EBS, if you keep it at or below 10:1 you can use single plug system.

My 98MM CP CARILLO Pistons cost me $1100 not including shipping and handling. YOu need rings as well but it does include shaft clips. Prices may have changed so I would contact EBS directly. I had EBS bore out my cylinders and re-coated them.

Break a Leg Brother!

Hmmm.. I pulled my head studs with no heat. I didn't feel any twisting or mush or see any particular material, but now I'm worried. Did you remember anything about that one stud in particular?

I had the dreaded, crackling as I was turning my stud remover tool, signs of aluminum coming ot with the stud.

If you did not hear it then you are lucky.

I see. I did hear some squealing, no crackling and no aluminum. Is that the stock 3.2 Carrera oil pump you put back in? Did you send it out?