Speedbleeder Install: Two Questions

jgrm1 · 05:28 AM

I decided to replace my OEM brake and clutch bleed nipples with Speedbleeders. I ordered SB1010S for the front calipers and clutch and SB6100 for the rear caliper. I noticed that the OEM nipples have a flat tip on the seating end and that the Speedbleeders have a pointed tip on the seat.

First question, do I need to grind the tip off the Speedbleeder to match the OEM nipple or will it seat properly as is? I do not want to butcher these things if they will work properly in the calipers straight out of the box.

Second question, has anyone used a Speedbleeder on their clutch? If so, which part number? There are not enough threads on the clutch bleeder to engage the sealed threads on the SB1010S, so it leaks. I did grind the tip off one SB1010S in an attemp to make it work, but still only a few threads engage and it still leaks. I've been running a regular OEM bleed nipple on the clutch since the first fluid change with no problems.

Thanks for the input,
Jeff

bikerfish1100 · 01-02-2007, 07:23 AM

have same part # SB. no problem using it on the clutch. to do my front, i removed the entire assy on the right fork leg, and threaded the SB directly onto the caliper. not sure it that's where your concern is or not. no, no surgery on the SBs necessary. they are a hard "press" to replace the grub screw, and don't thread all the way in, but they shouldn't leak. good luck.

jgrm1 · 01-02-2007, 06:18 PM

I spoke with Speedbleeder today. The lady who answered the phone admitted that she's been told that the BMW guys grind the points off their SB1010Ss before installation. She is also sending me another SB1010S that has the sealant applied to the first thread for my clutch bleeder.

-Jeff

tomn · 01-02-2007, 07:49 PM

jgm1
Pull old bleeder out in goes speed bleeder: worked fine for F650 GS and 2001 1200C front. Both ABS. I never needed at rear or clutch as they were all within easy reach for finger twisting of bleed valve.
I attached MityVac at bleeder end, put the vacuum on and pumped brake. Front that is. And keep your unused left over brake fluid in the container in case you have to re-bleed. the left over fluid is at least as good as what you put in the bike, just don't come back to it 12months later.
Have fun. This is a 2 beer job.

tadIV · 01-02-2007, 08:27 PM

Yep. Match the old nipple with a simple file. The bleeders are relatively soft. Careful, for the amount to file is small and goes quick.

As an aside, I assume sans the "A" in your tag that you don't have the ABS II. In the event you do, note this is my first experience dealing with this system below. To get the levers tight I was required to reverse bleed – something the Speeders don’t allow for. So instead of using them at the calipers, I used them at the masters. This I strongly recommend in any event since air is a devil at parking up here and doing so will inevitably make you life easier.

See generally: Help: Fill and Bleed ABS Proceedure & Tricks

Cheers,

T.A.

VetteRacer · 01-02-2007, 08:31 PM

During my battery install/suspension rebuild/custom wiring/valve adjustment/oil change/chip install/full detailing/fork seal/new front tire/starter terminal downtime I was thinking about doing speedbleeders and a bleeding/flush...
I have 2 SB1010 laying around from my Corvette, its the longer version of the one needed for the bike. Anyone know if these will work? Appears the only difference is that there is more threading.

The hex area isnt part of the sealing right? The threads and the > point do that right? So longer threads would be fine?

Thanks

Matt

wood-d · 01-03-2007, 02:33 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by jgrm1
I decided to replace my OEM brake and clutch bleed nipples with Speedbleeders. I ordered SB1010S for the front calipers and clutch and SB6100 for the rear caliper. I noticed that the OEM nipples have a flat tip on the seating end and that the Speedbleeders have a pointed tip on the seat.

First question, do I need to grind the tip off the Speedbleeder to match the OEM nipple or will it seat properly as is? I do not want to butcher these things if they will work properly in the calipers straight out of the box.

I have the EVO ABS model which uses different SB's (8125L). I have never had to grind an SB for a brake application.

Quote:

[Second question, has anyone used a Speedbleeder on their clutch? If so, which part number? There are not enough threads on the clutch bleeder to engage the sealed threads on the SB1010S, so it leaks. I did grind the tip off one SB1010S in an attempt to make it work, but still only a few threads engage and it still leaks. I've been running a regular OEM bleed nipple on the clutch since the first fluid change with no problems.
[/B]

The Speed Bleeder for the clutch is SB1010S. I had to grind the tip down a bit. There is a ball bearing seal on the bike that the SB needs to displace. Unless you grind the tip, the threads on the SB will not engage. I had no leaking problem by doing this. Once the bleed is complete, remove the SB and reinstall the grub screw (at least that is what I did). I can post/send a picture if you'd like. I think it will be difficult to tell how much I ground off.