What's that Ka-Ka-Ka-Ka Noise on Deceleration?

[wswartzwel]

Mine does that sometimes on rough pavement coming into a tight corner and decelerating hard.... Wheel hop.... A little bit of throttle usually smoothes it out and gives a nice slide... Perhaps a slipper clutch would be a good investment if you are backing it in that much.




















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[Meeni]

Originally Posted by jduke

I don't think they can be adjusted and I don't think you can just add oil to make the sound disappear. The old style are a three part, tube, spring, bolt. Typically the right tensioner is the one that gives problems. It's the one on top of the cylinder and will leak down. That's what causes the "clanging" sound, until the oil pressure builds back. I replaced both of mine with the newer version and I don't hear that "clanging" sound anymore.

Jduke, you are probably right that the original tensioners design has a defect that make this happen, and changing them for a new design would solve it. But the problem appearance is closely related to oil pressure. When I switched to synthetic oil I experienced crazy oil consumption. Following the advices of this valuable board, I tried keeping the oil level in the bottom quarter of the window, and suddenly at every hard braking it would happen. For this only reason I keep the oil level close to the max at all time (anyway oil consumption is back to normal now), and it made it disappear instantly. Actually, I now take advantage of this noise as an indicator of the oil level, as it usually appears exactly when reaching the bottom of the window

Keeping the engine at revs over 3k also helps. I don't know exactly the reason, possibly the oil pump is activated by the engine and at low rev it does not pump enough to keep the tensioners happy.

[lht]

Originally Posted by jduke

I don't think they can be adjusted and I don't think you can just add oil to make the sound disappear. The old style are a three part, tube, spring, bolt. Typically the right tensioner is the one that gives problems. It's the one on top of the cylinder and will leak down. That's what causes the "clanging" sound, until the oil pressure builds back. I replaced both of mine with the newer version and I don't hear that "clanging" sound anymore.

It is the left side (sitting on the bike) one that is replaced with the new style adjuster.

[jgrm1]

Originally Posted by jduke

Checked your alternator belt lately?

+1. I recently changed my alternator belt and rode the bike briefly without the cover on to see how the tension changed after the engine warmed and noticed quite a clacking when decelerating. The noise is still there, but the cover covers it up.

Unless I missed it, you haven't told us from which end or side the sound is emanating.

-Jeff

[Dana in Philly]

Alternator belt was checked at service this February. It's OK.

Yesterday afternoon, after letting the bike sit on the sidestand while it cooled down, with the bike on the centerstand, I added oil to the center dot of the sightglass.

This morning, wearing an open-faced helmet again, no ka ka ka ka noise on deceleration anymore. So, that was it: low oil level and resulting timing chain tensioner noise.

As Frank Cooper used to say, "It's a feature, not a flaw!" We've got an audible "I want more oil please" signal.

Thanks to the hive mind here for the diagnostic assistance. You guys rock. And I'm sorry to have started a semi-oil thread.

[Guest24]

I run my oil/hexheads on the center dot. What a cheap fix that was.

[JimMoore]

That's a classic cam chain noise. I don't want to jinx you, but I don't think you fixed it. It will come back under the right (wrong?) circumstances, generally a high rpm roll-off without squeezing the clutch with a warm engine. It will also happen occasionally on start-up.

The fix is to get an updated cam chain tensioner. The best thread on the process is over at Advrider in the GSpot section. Make sure you read the whole thing. The part numbers changed about halfway through the thread. You want to make sure you get the right parts. They're cheaper, simpler, and better, a rare combination if there ever was one.

As a note, driveshaft problems are easy to diagnose. If you spin the rear wheel by hand, there will be a distinct "clunk-clunk" if your u-joints are going bad. You don't get much warning before they grenade, so if you ever feel that, park the bike and start looking for a used driveshaft.

[Dana in Philly]

Originally Posted by JimMoore

That's a classic cam chain noise. I don't want to jinx you, but I don't think you fixed it. It will come back under the right (wrong?) circumstances, generally a high rpm roll-off without squeezing the clutch with a warm engine. It will also happen occasionally on start-up.

The fix is to get an updated cam chain tensioner. The best thread on the process is over at Advrider in the GSpot section. Make sure you read the whole thing. The part numbers changed about halfway through the thread. You want to make sure you get the right parts. They're cheaper, simpler, and better, a rare combination if there ever was one.

Sounds like a good idea for the next service interval. Get that update.

The odd thing about the R1100S -- compared to, say, the original flying brick K-bikes --- is that it's rather ridiculously involved to actually know if your oil is at center dot. Stop the bike. Lean it right for a 10-count to let the left jug drain, then put it on the sidestand to cool, the onto the centerstand. Wait awhile and check the sightglass.

But OK, I'm down with that I guess. All part of the fun.

[Guest24]

Jerry Duke posted awhile back that he comes in an put's the bike on the side-stand and goes to take off the riding gear and grab a cold beer. When he gets back he puts the bike on the center-stand and checks the oil, beer-in-hand. If Jerry didn't say it then maybe Bob Hancock did (except, his BCP didn't have a center stand).

[jduke]

Correct Bubba. I've seen others post the procedure and know it gives the most consistent reading.
The bike has to have been riden for about 30 miles (operating temp so the oil cooler thermostat is open), park the bike on the side stand for 10 minutes (allows oil to drain from oil cooler), put bike on centerstand for 30 minutes (allows all oil to drain from oil passages).

[JimMoore]

Originally Posted by Dana in Philly

Sounds like a good idea for the next service interval. Get that update.

I don't know if a dealer will do it for you. I think those are actually R1200 parts. It's pretty easy though.

And yeah, R bikes are a much more "hands-on" experience than K bikes.

[RBMann]

Originally Posted by Dana in Philly

The odd thing about the R1100S -- compared to, say, the original flying brick K-bikes --- is that it's rather ridiculously involved to actually know if your oil is at center dot. Stop the bike. Lean it right for a 10-count to let the left jug drain, then put it on the sidestand to cool, the onto the centerstand. Wait awhile and check the sightglass.

But OK, I'm down with that I guess. All part of the fun.

I have done the oil level check routine with mine then come back in the morning to find less oil then when it was hot the night before. As if it sucks some back up into a cavity.

[Doyle Whiting]

I just replaced the tensioner this weekend. A huge improvement. No more noise at start up. The article in ADVRider makes the job harder than neccessary. You do not need to disconnect everything on the fuel injector. Just loosen the clamps, remove the screws going into the air box and pull everything out of the way. Total time for me was about 45 minutes. 10 minutes of actual work, and 35 minutes of looking at it and wondering why I wasn't having any problems. (I am mechanically challanged). I bought it as a kit from Ted Porter BMW for $85. Well worth the money.

[Dana in Philly]

Ted's kit have instructions? Or did you use the ADVrider instructions?

Originally Posted by Doyle Whiting

I just replaced the tensioner this weekend. A huge improvement. No more noise at start up. The article in ADVRider makes the job harder than neccessary. You do not need to disconnect everything on the fuel injector. Just loosen the clamps, remove the screws going into the air box and pull everything out of the way. Total time for me was about 45 minutes. 10 minutes of actual work, and 35 minutes of looking at it and wondering why I wasn't having any problems. (I am mechanically challanged). I bought it as a kit from Ted Porter BMW for $85. Well worth the money.