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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Edmonton AB, Canada
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Ohlins Install Problem
The new rear Ohlins shock does not quite clear the lower edge of the upper shock mount casting. There is some contact with the upper Ohlins casting.
Is it normal to have to clearance the edge of the frame's casting to gain some space? ![]() ![]() Note The top shock bolt is not fitting properly into its hole because of this interference. ![]()
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Motorcycling in itself is not inherently dangerous. But to an even greater degree than the sea, it is terribly unforgiving of any carelessness, incapacity or neglect. Last edited by BrianG; 12-27-2013 at 04:20 PM.. |
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Brent
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should clear with spare space, send it back
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Registered Agitator
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What he said, I have no such problem with mine either. For what they charge you it should fit perfectly.
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R1100s
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My Wilbers
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Ridgefield, WA
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My ohlins is very close like OP pictures. If I have a few moments (and remember) in the morning I will take some pics of it.
Matt
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RIP Jeff Williams; RIP Brad Zimmerman 1989 K100RS - White/Blue, Remus; 1999 R1100S - Mandarin Orange, Remus, Ohlins; 2007 G650XCountry - Black/Silver, iStorm Luggage - Wilbers 75mm Lowered shock for the wife!; 2003 BCR #57 - Jeff's bike ; 2009 G477X - Akrapovic, WP Trax, SpeedBrain Goodies 2000 ///M5 - Custom Black & Blue, Dinan goodies |
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Brent
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when I had mine rebuilt kyle said there were several major revisions to the r1100s rear
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Western NY
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The one I had in the BCR was close too and showed signs of wearing after use. 10 minutes with a dremmel or file should fix it. On the bike side of course.
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Richard 2010 F800GS '04 R11BXA, '01 F650GS, '98 CBR600F3 track bike, '75 RE-5, '76 RE-5, '81 GS400E. Also residing in the barn my son's bikes: '89 GS500ES, Ducati Monster 620 dark |
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After seeing those pix I went out and looked at mine. It's really close, probably just a few thousandths clearance, especially on the right side.
In fact it's so close that I'm going to take mine back off and add a few thousandths. |
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Birmingham England
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Yup mine is the same,just it you'll have a slight wear mark but no big deal.
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Thanks guys!
Out comes the die grinder! ![]()
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Some minor relieving of the frame's top shock mount casting on the lower and inside edge of the left ear, and a little more substantial work on the lower and outside egdes of the right side ear got me almost there.
It looks like extending the relief cut on the shock's reservoir neck might have been the answer, but I don't know where the channel is inside that casting, and an error there would be an expensive mistake, especially given the amount of metal taken off of that edge of the mount casting. With the ears trimmed this much, the front of the shock's top casting was still just making contact at the center of the bottom of the frame casting. Just the lightest relieving of that spot with a Dremel sanding drum got me 0.050" clearance there when mounted and the swingarm at full extension. The top mounting bolt is now a finger-fit into the hole with no contact of the shock to the upper mount casting. Relieved Left Side ![]() Relieved Right Side ![]() ![]()
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Motorcycling in itself is not inherently dangerous. But to an even greater degree than the sea, it is terribly unforgiving of any carelessness, incapacity or neglect. Last edited by BrianG; 12-28-2013 at 03:20 PM.. |
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Brent
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just saying I didn't have to grind anything
I will look at mine when I am at the shop next week |
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Quote:
Certainly, if the hole in the frame casting was set 1/8" down and 1/8" to the aft, none of this would have been necessary. By the sounds of things from others, that variability seems to be within jig tolerances for this assembly. The OEM shock had plenty of clearance as it was.
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Motorcycling in itself is not inherently dangerous. But to an even greater degree than the sea, it is terribly unforgiving of any carelessness, incapacity or neglect. |
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given a couple more variables, like "flex" which we don't ever seem to talk about....
...looks like you're good to go, and even if it's on the edge, the only time it would clunk would be at full extension, which i believe is also AFTER the rear wheel has left the ground, which in turn could mean... ...if it does go full extension, the clunk might be classified as a "feature". kind of like someone whacking a broomstick on the ceiling to quiet down the upstairs folks. "bang-bang...what the hell is going on up there? knock it off!! take it down a notch!" i've had dirt bikes that have done that to me...a nasty clunk in the rear at full extension when the rocker arm hit the frame. it's made me pause and rethink my position (throttle position). most times i backed off. most.
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'04 R1100s. I changed a couple o' things. Last edited by bradzdotcom; 12-28-2013 at 05:06 PM.. |
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Quote:
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Motorcycling in itself is not inherently dangerous. But to an even greater degree than the sea, it is terribly unforgiving of any carelessness, incapacity or neglect. |
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Brent
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if you really have to do that with what ohlins is shipping now, I would return it and get the wilbers,
ted porter here in the us is a good supplier. I know that ohlins has various top designs, |
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Quote:
eventually a few degrees of angle will come into play, but the junction of the shock and frame that you're dealing with doesn't have any idea how long the other end of the shock is.
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'04 R1100s. I changed a couple o' things. |
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Quote:
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Quote:
I realize that the arc of swing arm movement doesn't cause much forward movement of the lower shock mount, but it was that tight.
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Motorcycling in itself is not inherently dangerous. But to an even greater degree than the sea, it is terribly unforgiving of any carelessness, incapacity or neglect. Last edited by BrianG; 12-29-2013 at 01:41 PM.. |
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All that money an you need to get a grinder out to make it fit...!!! Im thinking Ohlins need to Sort it... Mite be a good idea to send some photos off to ya Ohlins man, some feedback to the factory...
Jeremy. |
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