Need Experts as this one is unusual.

[Jeff Roof]

I have a 2004 R1100S which I wrecked in August of this past year. I came up on a turn which tightened up dramatically and I pretty much forgot that I was riding with bags and laid the bike down trying to make the turn until the right bag hit the road, which I’m thinking the right cylinder would have hit at about the same time. But long story short I was fine, the bike not so much.
So I started the rebuilding process by rounding up parts here and on EBAY and BeemerBoneyard. I got the aluminum cage and the upper shock tower and in addition I needed an ignition switch and a gauge cluster and from there mainly it was just plastic.
So I get to the point where I’m ready to make the bike a running ridable / rolling machine before I proceed to start working on the bodywork. I was unable to crank it after the wreck as the ignition switch was destroyed, so this was the first time it would run since the wreck. When I went to crank it, the thing was not running right. Basically it is misfiring on the right cylinder. While it is running it is spitting back through the intake and popping out of the exhaust sporadically. Before you start suggesting coil stick / coil / plug wire, I have spares in that I took the sticks out of my R1200S and I just so happened to have replaced the lower coil with new wires a few months back and I still had my old ones.
So between those and swapping from left to right I came to the place where I knew my problem was the right cylinder and had nothing to do with wires or coil. It sits there and pops and spits until I unplug the two plug wires on that side and then it sits there and runs on the left without drama as in spitting and popping. If I do the reverse, which is to getting it running and so much as disconnect one wire on the left cylcinder it dies immediately, it will not run on the right cylinder.
So I pulled the Fuel injector out to make sure there was gas, I even swapped the injectors from side to side, still no change. I just had the injectors cleaned and calibrated this past winter by RC as they are RC310’s. I’m not an ace / expert mechanic such that if I was I would not be asking for help, but I know when you have fuel and you have fire and the thing is not running right, typically the fire is happening at the wrong time or something in the combustion chamber is not where it should be when the fire occurs.
So I take the cam sprocket cover off and line up the arrows on TDC and check the valve tolerances and they are totally in spec per the last time I adjusted them, which kind of blows my bent valve theory. At this point I was sure if I just pulled the head off my problem would be glaring at me, but I knew one more thing which needed to be done and that was run a compression test on it. I had to borrow a tester from a buddy and last night I checked it and I had exactly 229 PSI on both cylinders. As much as I was glad that I had 229 it made me realize what I thought I was sure of was no more and that it was back to the drawing board or I guess in this case the Pelican Parts Message Board as I’ve never asked for help before.
I’m not sure if it is accident related or related to what was replaced after the accident, but I’m not sure where to go next. One thing of note, and that is the tach is not working and I felt like that was a problem I’d deal with later. Does anyone think it could be related. I’ve checked all the grounds and pretty much everything you can check visually. I don’t see any to reason to pull the head at this point. I’m starting to think that even though I have everything you should have to make one run, gas ,fuel ,fire, compression that perhaps the fire is not occurring at the correct time.
I remember reading somewhere way back when about putting a plug on a coil stick and rolling the engine around to see if it fires or sparks when it hits TDC. Anyone have any other idea’s ???

[anotheroldrider]

Cam timing off one tooth?

[Jeff Roof]

Originally Posted by anotheroldrider

Cam timing off one tooth?

Well if the arrows line up a TDC center on the cam sprocket and the piston is at TDC and the valve clearances can be checked becasue they are both closed, wouldn't that ruled out the out it being out of time ???

[SergioK]

Check for an unseated throttle cable sheath at the TB.

[PFFOG]

Originally Posted by SergioK

Check for an unseated throttle cable sheath at the TB.

What he said.

[wswartzwel]

X3 it won't let the throttle close all the way on that side. You have to look close where the cable fits into the adjuster.

[Jeff Roof]

Originally Posted by wswartzwel

X3 it won't let the throttle close all the way on that side. You have to look close where the cable fits into the adjuster.

Well one of the variables in this is that I did replace the throttle cable because I broke one of my vario bar risers and I replaced it with a 70mm versus the 60mm that was on there.

So I did the upgrade on the newer longer cable.

But the cables are both seated into the hole by the throttle bodies. When I pull the throttle they both appear to pull the throttle bodies equally. I had planned syncing them once I got it running. But could those things being just a tad out of sink cause one cylinder to not properly fire

[JonyRR]

229 psi is great compression.
I doubt cam timing moved.
maybe, just maybe the hall effect sensor wires got gorfused. maybe.
for giggles remove the BBS/ big brass screws from the tb's clean the gunk from them, put 'em in 1.5 turns out. WTH, at this point..
and investigate the TPS sensor as well.
as we all know, with correct spark, at correct time, and correct compression and cam timing and fuel in correct quantity and correct time, it HAS to run.
clear-blue swag; how's the battery?

[tjs]

What happens when you unplug the stick coil and leave the bottom spark plug wire connected on the R/S. Thinking maybe not the stick coil, but the connector, or wiring from the harness to the connector may have been damaged. tjs

[Jeff Roof]

Originally Posted by JonyRR

229 psi is great compression.
I doubt cam timing moved.
maybe, just maybe the hall effect sensor wires got gorfused. maybe.
for giggles remove the BBS/ big brass screws from the tb's clean the gunk from them, put 'em in 1.5 turns out. WTH, at this point..
and investigate the TPS sensor as well.
as we all know, with correct spark, at correct time, and correct compression and cam timing and fuel in correct quantity and correct time, it HAS to run.
clear-blue swag; how's the battery?

Yea Jony, I bought it from Philip Cortirght and he did the 1150 kit with 12:5:1 pistons. I've cleaned the brass screws. I thought when the HES went bad the thing just died and wouldn't run. I haven't moved the TPS but it has marks on it from where it was set way back when. I'm sure the cables are seated. I'm trying to figure out in the accident what could have gotten screwed up top the point that is causing this.

[Jeff Roof]

Originally Posted by tjs

What happens when you unplug the stick coil and leave the bottom spark plug wire connected on the R/S. Thinking maybe not the stick coil, but the connector, or wiring from the harness to the connector may have been damaged. tjs

the spitting and popping subsides slightly. Then when you disconnect both on the right side it runs on the left cylinder without the popping and spitting. The popping and spitting back though the intake seem to be when the plugs on the right side are firing, but its like they are either firing at the wrong time or firing intermittently

[Jeff Roof]

Originally Posted by Jeff Roof

Yea Jony, I bought it from Philip Cortirght and he did the 1150 kit with 12:5:1 pistons. I've cleaned the brass screws. I thought when the HES went bad the thing just died and wouldn't run. I haven't moved the TPS but it has marks on it from where it was set way back when. I'm sure the cables are seated. I'm trying to figure out in the accident what could have gotten screwed up top the point that is causing this.

Oh and the battery is like one of those badass lithium dudes with 336CCA and will turn crank for days without needing any help.

[JonyRR]

it might be grounding the ignition partially on that side, perhaps an HES wire is pinched. rubbed insulation off wire somewhere and arcing to ground?
it sounds electrical, as you are relating the issue.

[JonyRR]

or the main coil for that side is damaged...

[brentw1]

measure the voltages at the injectors and coils with a scope if you have it to eliminate cut or broken
wires etc.
with compression so close it would seem odd to be cams or valves or anything else.
also of corse the hall sensors.
I have had a bad main coil but it ran ok on the stick coil.

[brentw1]

also could be a broken spark plug

[Jeff Roof]

Originally Posted by brentw1

measure the voltages at the injectors and coils with a scope if you have it to eliminate cut or broken
wires etc.
with compression so close it would seem odd to be cams or valves or anything else.
also of corse the hall sensors.
I have had a bad main coil but it ran ok on the stick coil.

What is the voltage supposed to be to the injectors and the coil. I've pretty much elminated the coil, both stick and main coil as I have a spares. I was having a problem with it last year and I thought it was the coil for the lower plugs, so I bought a new one with wires. That was on it when I started it and I immediately went back to my old coil and wires with the same result. I'm starting to like Jony's idea about a wire some where arcing. But I'd love to rule out that by knowing the proper voltage is coming to the plugs. Some where way back when I had read that you can pull a coil or plug wire and put a plug on it and then roll the engine around manually to TDC and that it should fire at TDC and that was one way to check that issue. I haven't tried but probably will this weekend as i'm starting to really scratch my head on this one. I'm not sure if anyone noticed where I said the tach was not working, but everything else on the gauge cluster is. Do you know what drives the tach and or where the relay is to it on the motor ?

[Jeff Roof]

Originally Posted by brentw1

also could be a broken spark plug

Nah, I've bought a handfull of those and keep switching them out as the ones in there come out soaking wet, not from oil but from gas.

[wswartzwel]

Have you tried unplugging the tach? you mentioned you bought a used unit from a salvage yard? It is driven off of one side of the ign. system… it could be killing the spark, or the wiring harness going to it.

[Jeff Roof]

Originally Posted by wswartzwel

Have you tried unplugging the tach? you mentioned you bought a used unit from a salvage yard? It is driven off of one side of the ign. system… it could be killing the spark, or the wiring harness going to it.

Well, I can and have started it without the gauge cluster plugged in, so I don't think it would be at the gauge cluster. Can you tell me what drives the tach and where to the wires originate from, because like I said one issue since putting the new gauge cluster on is that the tach does not work.