Mrs & I need bikes, Houston MS 150, complete beginners

[red-beard]

Steve, PM me your phone number and we can talk. I expect I can find some used ones for you or we can find a couple of decent entry level bikes for under $1K.

And an entry level bike is FINE. And if you don't do the MS150 again, you can sell it about this time next year!

[mepstein]

Originally Posted by look 171

Here's one more if you decide to buy used. Change that chain no matter what sellers tell ya. Its not worth your nuts going up hill when it snaps. Tires and saddle and stem second. After a couple or few weeks, you will know if saddle or stem will work for you.

Not very good advise. Chains rarely snap but they do wear with the cogs so you must change both together or the new chain will usually skip and you will hurt yourself.

[nikita76]

Hey Byron!

Thanks for the kind words!

Things are good... downsizing after the heart attacks. Don't need 18 bikes anymore! Lol! Selling most of the bikes, Vitansel stands, parts, etc....

How are you? I'm thinking about that snowboard! Hahaha!

[herr_oberst]

Couple of things. If you ask me, I'll say start your search at a FLBS, one with a well stocked line of Trek or Specialized would be best, just because those two brands have full lineups. Even if you don't buy there, you'll be able to get a feel for what floats your boat.
(If you start driving around Houston on the search for something used as your first foray into ownership, you're going to be jumping into the deep end without a lifeguard. So much can be wrong on a used bike that if you don't know, you'll never see.)

Take advantage of the bike shop environment. Those people do this for a living. They want to sell you a bike, sure, and the first step in that process is having you ride a few to get a feel for what seems right, and they'll offer pointers that aren't obvious to you yet. They're also pragmatic and they know that not every person that walks in is a sale. If you find a shop you like, but you end up getting something off Craigslist or from one of RB's contacts, you can take that used bike in for a possible fit, and a tuneup and get new consumables while letting them know with your credit card that you appreciated the advice that they gave you.


Then, take advantage of RedBeard's offer of help. He's one of the guys on this board who knows bikes very well, plus he's done the exact ride you are planning; local knowledge of these big group rides is SOOOOO valuable, to do it without a mentor is just burning calories that can be put to better use. (John Liu helped me immensely when I was prepping for my first double century.) There's a lot to think about in terms of logistics. For instance, someone said there's a rest stop every 15 miles? Don't know if that's accurate, but lets say it is. That's 4 breaks each day, how long do you want to stop at each one? It's easy to turn a 5 hour ride into a 6 or 7 hour ride, if you don't watch the clock at the pit stops. Nothing wrong with that if that's how you like it, but just be aware going in so you don't feel anxious towards the end of the day. Another thing, sometimes you can throw extra clothes onto a sagwagon if you pal around a little with the driver and they can maybe leapfrog a rainjacket or armwarmers up the road! Less to carry.
You'll need to learn to hydrate and eat on the bike, RB can give you pointers there, too. And, of course, he can probably give you tips on the halfway logistics, setting up camp, getting showered and fed in a timely fashion....

You and your wife are going to have a great time no matter what, just because it's obvious that you're into weekend adventures. Take care of all the little things, and you'll have a great time.

[red-beard]

I talked with Steve a little while ago and I'll help him get setup. A good entry level bike will be fine for the first year. And if you're really into it, or NOT, you can always sell it around this time next year.

The real expense is in all the other stuff, Bike Shorts, shoes, socks, helmet, bike computer, glasses, etc.

I have a website dedicated to the training. It is still up, but I'm not riding (shoulder issues). My old group, Tour de Taco has transformed into "Tap & Pedal", a group dedicated to riding bicycles and drinking beer.

There are LOTS of charity training rides and other groups dedicated to helping newer riders.

And several of the bike groups train, not to mention FLBS that have rides every weekend.

[aigel]

I would rent bikes for the weekend and go out and ride them to see if you even like riding. You'll be out 3k between the two of you otherwise and may not like it.

Rim brakes are fine, even if you have some hills. If you can get disk brakes for the same money, then maybe, but it will not be worth it for this type of riding.

I do think a new or used bike from the LBS will be the best way to go with a proper fit. I have bought my first "real" bike since teen years at the LBS and it has been great. Only after I learned more about cycles did I start venture into used with advice from here.

G

[masraum]

Lots and lots of great advice, everyone. Thanks tons.

[look 171]

Originally Posted by mepstein

Not very good advise. Chains rarely snap but they do wear with the cigs so you must change both together or the new chain will usually skip and you will hurt yourself.

You are correct on all you said, but sometimes they do snap and for 40 bucks, Its not a chance worth taking. In all my years of riding, I have only seen one chain snap during a sprint in a training ride. I was two riders behind him, so it weren't pretty.

Cogs do wear but chains usually wear out or stretch before the cogs. I have changed many chains before I change cassette. If it shifts fine with a new chain, then there's some life left. Go riding. It takes a lot of miles to wear out a cassette but a chain should be changed every year if there are lots of miles on it. As for Steve, he's trying to do this on a certain budget, so saving 70-80 bucks on a cassette that still works as it should will be fine. He's not demanding super accurate, crisp, and nano second shifting just as long as it shifts reliability and quickly is all it matters to him at this point.

[KFC911]

You guys are so far over my head....my neck hurts from looking up . Find out if "this" is even for you both....before anything more than a tiptoe in....jmo. I didn't ride my bike (and later a m/c) simply because of where I lived at times (traffic). I'm voting for red beard too....he da man!

[red-beard]

If Steve goes the used route, I have a chain stretch tool for checking the chains.

[slow&rusty]

I am 6' and have an aluminum and carbon Cannondale (as per my earlier post) you can try out if you like, I live in Jersey Village.

[mepstein]

Originally Posted by look 171

You are correct on all you said, but sometimes they do snap and for 40 bucks, Its not a chance worth taking. In all my years of riding, I have only seen one chain snap during a sprint in a training ride. I was two riders behind him, so it weren't pretty.

Cogs do wear but chains usually wear out or stretch before the cogs. I have changed many chains before I change cassette. If it shifts fine with a new chain, then there's some life left. Go riding. It takes a lot of miles to wear out a cassette but a chain should be changed every year if there are lots of miles on it. As for Steve, he's trying to do this on a certain budget, so saving 70-80 bucks on a cassette that still works as it should will be fine. He's not demanding super accurate, crisp, and nano second shifting just as long as it shifts reliability and quickly is all it matters to him at this point.

Sorry, just some advise from running a bike shop for 6 years and riding and racing for 30.

[masraum]

My ass hurts!

We checked out a bunch of stuff today. Bike Barn had a nice selection, but I didn't trust the (really nice/friendly) sales person any further than I could throw him. I had to drag him down from $4k bikes to $1k bikes, and even then he kept creeping back up.

We did find a great little local shop that I really want to purchase from, super knowledgeable and helpful.

What does everyone think about getting a gravel bike and swapping in some drop bars?

[herr_oberst]

Originally Posted by masraum

What does everyone think about getting a gravel bike and swapping in some drop bars?

It's expensive to go that route. You'll need bars, shifters/brifters and cables, plus bar tape, and possibly a stem and a saddle and maybe even a new geartrain... Not to mention shop labor. What kind of a gravel bike are you looking at that has flat bars?

[mepstein]

If you really like the gravel bike, just swap out for some road tires. If you need to change the bars, you are buying the wrong bike.

[look 171]

Don't know, don't like and don't do gravel because I will fall and scrap my ass up big time and I will cry all the way home. Looks like fun

[herr_oberst]

Originally Posted by look 171

I will cry all the way home.

That's funny!

[masraum]

Originally Posted by herr_oberst

It's expensive to go that route. You'll need bars, shifters/brifters and cables, plus bar tape, and possibly a stem and a saddle and maybe even a new geartrain... Not to mention shop labor. What kind of a gravel bike are you looking at that has flat bars?

I figured out the problem. I looked at and am thinking about a gravel bike, but it's got drop bars. The other bike that has the straight bars is an urban/commuter bike.
https://haromtb.com/products/beasley-27-5-2019

It was REALLY comfy. I doubt the gearing would be adequate for the MS 150. It's only got 8 speeds. I was talking to the guy at the shop. He said that he could swap out the bars for drop bars and upgrade the chain ring and swap the cassette from an 8 speed to a 10 speed to give me more range of gearing.

This is another that I'm wondering about and is a gravel bike with drop bars.
https://masibikes.com/collections/gravel-road/products/cxgr-2019

Originally Posted by mepstein

If you really like the gravel bike, just swap out for some road tires. If you need to change the bars, you are buying the wrong bike.

[masraum]

One of the bikes that I road today at the Bike Barn was a " Specialized Men's Diverge Expert - 2018", only $3999 at the Bike Barn. hahahaha. It was a very nice bike. The thing that shocked me the most today about all of the bikes that I road was the shifters and shifting.

I'm used to

Or maybe


And when I used them, the rears were usually "OK". You may have to slightly shift past the gear that you wanted and let the level pop back or fiddle around with the levers. Either way, it was worse than a 915 with worn shift bushings.

The shifters (and I assume derailleurs on the modern bikes are amazing! The $4k Specialized above, I especially liked. I guess it was using SRAM top of the line stuff. I like that you push a single lever to either the first click or the second click depending upon whether you want to shift up or down.

The Haro that I posted above with the straight bars is pretty slick too. It's got 2 levers, on that you push with the thumb and one that you pull with your finger for up and down. The more standard Shimano shifters for drop bars where you have a small lever that you press in and then a bigger lever that you also press in is also pretty slick (but not as good as the two level SRAM stuff).

And all of the bikes seemed to have pretty slick, quick, positive shifting.

[zakthor]

Only 8 speeds: Realize that number of speeds is different than gear range. The high and low gear can be made the same on a 2x5 speed and on a modern 2x12 speed, the 2x12 just gives more choices. For a racer it's important to be able to pick the perfect gear but you... It really isn't important.

Part of learning distance riding is getting the strength and flexibility to ride lower. The aero benefits are huge compared to an upright hybrid. I think you'll be sorry if you get a hybrid...

If you can find one that fits a used bike is a much better value than new. I hope someone here can help you find one.