Mrs & I need bikes, Houston MS 150, complete beginners

[zakthor]

Originally Posted by masraum

The Haro that I posted above has a spectacular saddle. The guy at the shop said that it was the same as one of the WTB saddles, so we are already planning to swap that on whatever we get. Some of them felt like you were sitting on a couple of ice skates with the blades digging into your rear, not pleasant at all.

Neat that you found a saddle you like but... respectfully... you need to get in some saddle time before you will appreciate what is a good saddle. You need to habituate your sitbones, they’ll hurt and be bruised for a few weeks, after that point padding isn’t so important any more and the shape becomes everything. A soft saddle can end up impeding blood flow. Some seatposts allow very precise seat adjustments which is great.

If you ever get ‘numbness’ then you need to deal with it right away. Start by adjusting the saddle, your bars, etc, but may need to go saddle shopping again. If cycle barn carries specialized... can you ask to try a bike with their phenom saddle? I’m a big fan because it helped me so much, now two friends feel the same way.

Other thing... believe me about crotch lube: Vaseline or bag balm work great to protect the skin. Is gross but better than the alternatives.

[MFAFF]

Originally Posted by masraum

Yeah huge tires. More cushion for the pushin' or something like that.

The 2018 version of the bike is a 3x8, so 24 speed. The 2019 is a 2x8. I didn't end up going with the bike that just had the one front gear.

That bike with those tyres will feel like a BMW 7 series..... a treat.
A steel frame and fork with 38s... fantastic.

My guess is that you'll be looking at something like this in the tyre line pretty quickly

https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/components/tires/700c/compass-700cx35-bon-jon-pass/

These are significantly lighter and more importantly more flexible than the Kendras, making them much more comfortable. Also they recommend a lower pressure.. again comfort. You might also consider mounting these tyres in a tubeless manner (in without an inner tube like a car tyre) as this further increases the comfort factor.

For the ride you posted the 11-32 cassette is fine, you may want to consider a slight tighter group, say 11-28 as the climbs appear to be pretty steady adn short. The smaller gap between each gear may be helpful to you.

In terms of kit the spd pedals are great, I have used the platform/ spd mix... not a fan as you need to flip the pedal over to clip in or ride flat. To me that's not ideal however it is only after trying it that you will see.

Loads of really good spd shoes which are stiff enough for this type of ride yet allow you to walk comfortably off the bike at stops an in the evening.

I have pair of these:

https://www.wiggle.co.uk/giro-rumble-vr-off-road-shoe/?lang=en&curr=GBP&dest=1&sku=5360746995&kpid=5360746995&utm_source=google&utm_term=&utm_campaign=Shopping+-+All+Products&utm_medium=base&utm_content=mckv%7CsYNW22cXM_dc%7Cmcrid%7C29529755 9414%7Cmkw%7C%7Cmmt%7C%7Cmrd%7C5360746995uk%7Cmsli d%7C%7C&mkwid=sYNW22cXM_dc&pcrid=295297559414&prd=5360746995uk&pgrid=62029321609&ptaid=pla-521123696860&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlMS4ke633wIVWuJ3Ch19Ewv-EAQYBCABEgKkJPD_BwE

which I use pretty much everyday and for longer (100km+) rides in the summer. The mesh tops keep feet reasonably cool and it means I only need one pair of shoes... they look like sneakers. Not the stiffest but appropriate. (I also have a pair of carbon soled Giros for harder rides on the spd pedals but they are much less comfortable to walk in)
Also if you then hate riding you still have a pair of sneakers to wear as the clip is easy to remove and does not affect the shoes...

A good short sleeved UV block jersey with UV block arm protectors is the way to go.. same for legs/ knees.

The importance of good padded shorts or undershorts cannot be repeated often enough. One people do not like the look/ feel of a lycra short so use padded undershorts and MTB style baggier shorts. Either can work and I'd suggest that it is worth investing in a good padded one... especially as you'll be in the saddle for a long day. Some of the less expensive shorts feel good for a couple of hours of riding and then much less so.. the higher end ones feel good all day. And allied to a good chamois cream make the ride enjoyable. Lots of different products out there to chose from so it might be hit and miss. Also think about using some baby anti -rash cream (I use a E45 cream) after the ride/shower to help recovery of any soreness in that area.

[masraum]

Originally Posted by MFAFF

That bike with those tyres will feel like a BMW 7 series..... a treat.
A steel frame and fork with 38s... fantastic.

My guess is that you'll be looking at something like this in the tyre line pretty quickly

https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/components/tires/700c/compass-700cx35-bon-jon-pass/

These are significantly lighter and more importantly more flexible than the Kendras, making them much more comfortable. Also they recommend a lower pressure.. again comfort. You might also consider mounting these tyres in a tubeless manner (in without an inner tube like a car tyre) as this further increases the comfort factor.

You'd also previously recommended the Panaracer Gravel kings for something more supple than the Kendas. I was thinking that once we'd gotten our rears broken-in, we might be able to step down to the 700x32 Panaracers. I would probably try them myself, and then if they seemed good, then swap the missus over. Otherwise she'll wonder why I'm going to something thinner as so much of the talk has been about bigger tires being more comfy. I assume there's a benefit to a more narrow tire otherwise road bikes wouldn't be on them. Is it just weight?

For the ride you posted the 11-32 cassette is fine, you may want to consider a slight tighter group, say 11-28 as the climbs appear to be pretty steady adn short. The smaller gap between each gear may be helpful to you.

In terms of kit the spd pedals are great, I have used the platform/ spd mix... not a fan as you need to flip the pedal over to clip in or ride flat. To me that's not ideal however it is only after trying it that you will see.

Loads of really good spd shoes which are stiff enough for this type of ride yet allow you to walk comfortably off the bike at stops an in the evening.

I have pair of these:

https://www.wiggle.co.uk/giro-rumble-vr-off-road-shoe/?lang=en&curr=GBP&dest=1&sku=5360746995&kpid=5360746995&utm_source=google&utm_term=&utm_campaign=Shopping+-+All+Products&utm_medium=base&utm_content=mckv%7CsYNW22cXM_dc%7Cmcrid%7C29529755 9414%7Cmkw%7C%7Cmmt%7C%7Cmrd%7C5360746995uk%7Cmsli d%7C%7C&mkwid=sYNW22cXM_dc&pcrid=295297559414&prd=5360746995uk&pgrid=62029321609&ptaid=pla-521123696860&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlMS4ke633wIVWuJ3Ch19Ewv-EAQYBCABEgKkJPD_BwE

which I use pretty much everyday and for longer (100km+) rides in the summer. The mesh tops keep feet reasonably cool and it means I only need one pair of shoes... they look like sneakers. Not the stiffest but appropriate. (I also have a pair of carbon soled Giros for harder rides on the spd pedals but they are much less comfortable to walk in)
Also if you then hate riding you still have a pair of sneakers to wear as the clip is easy to remove and does not affect the shoes...

Yeah, I'd wondered about the flipping over. Some of the bikes that I've tested have the plastic that's supposed to go over the top of the toes, and that extra weight/imbalance means the pedals are always upside down which is a pain.

A good short sleeved UV block jersey with UV block arm protectors is the way to go.. same for legs/ knees.

The importance of good padded shorts or undershorts cannot be repeated often enough. One people do not like the look/ feel of a lycra short so use padded undershorts and MTB style baggier shorts. Either can work and I'd suggest that it is worth investing in a good padded one... especially as you'll be in the saddle for a long day. Some of the less expensive shorts feel good for a couple of hours of riding and then much less so.. the higher end ones feel good all day. And allied to a good chamois cream make the ride enjoyable. Lots of different products out there to chose from so it might be hit and miss. Also think about using some baby anti -rash cream (I use a E45 cream) after the ride/shower to help recovery of any soreness in that area.

My thought was that we would probably have 2 pairs of really good bib shorts for the MS150 and any long training that we do, but may have one or two pairs of cheaper shorts for short rides.

[masraum]

Originally Posted by zakthor

Neat that you found a saddle you like but... respectfully... you need to get in some saddle time before you will appreciate what is a good saddle. You need to habituate your sitbones, they’ll hurt and be bruised for a few weeks, after that point padding isn’t so important any more and the shape becomes everything. A soft saddle can end up impeding blood flow. Some seatposts allow very precise seat adjustments which is great.

If you ever get ‘numbness’ then you need to deal with it right away. Start by adjusting the saddle, your bars, etc, but may need to go saddle shopping again. If cycle barn carries specialized... can you ask to try a bike with their phenom saddle? I’m a big fan because it helped me so much, now two friends feel the same way.

I'll check those out too. I found a couple of sites/articles that talk about measuring the gap between your sit bones to make sure that you've got a saddle that fits your butt. I definitely noticed that some of the saddles on the bikes I road were very uncomfortable, and some were much less so, even some that felt like they were just a hard shell (even though they all had some give).

The seat that I liked on the Haro, I was told, was basically a rebranded WTB Volt. I've looked and the Volt which comes in 3 widths does come in a size that would fit my rear, and the WTB Speed does as well. I'll check around and see if I can sit on some seats before I buy as well as scouring the Internet for info.

Other thing... believe me about crotch lube: Vaseline or bag balm work great to protect the skin. Is gross but better than the alternatives.

I've seen enough people talking about it, that I believe it. I'd much rather take advice and learn from those who have gone before me, and save myself some pain than say "all these people that are doing it have no idea what they are talking about, I don't need that stuff!" because I think lubing up your stuff is weird or gross, and then end up with a painful mess downstairs.

[MFAFF]

Steve,

Both the Panaracer and Compass in a 35mm are much more flexible than the Kendras. That is what you are seeking in this instance....and I’d suggest sticking to 35 as this gives a good ride at lower preasures ( say 60-70 psi) which will be the prime consideration (I think ) for you.

The main reason why road racers use narrower tyres is puncture resistance. Narrow tyres at high pressure tend to keep small flints/ sharps out pretty well. And they do have a lower rolling resistance that can be measured. That being said the development of modern tyres has delivered better puncture resistance via multi layer construction with little weight penalty. Thus a wider tyre, giving better comfort and retaining robustness is possible. The develoment of aerowheels means the wider tyre/ wheel combo is often more aero than a narrow tyre on traditonal rims reducing power demands and negating much of the gains due to lower rolling resistance.....Weight is an issue as on the wheel it blunts acceleration (sprinting mainly) and hinders climbing. Racers will use specific wheel/tyre combos for climbing stages.

You’ll see most riders on the classsics and stage racers using seminaero wheels for the daily grind.

Most of that is not directly relevant to your choice at this stage... stick to comfort. I have just finished my little 100km commute.... 35kms on the towpath and trails with the balance on country roads here in the UK... 35mm Gravel King SK tyres at 55/65psi... nice and comfortable ride. Loaded with a few small bags it was a comfortable 4 hours non stop...The SKs are for the kms on the gravel/ mud/ tarmac mix of the towpath and trail. Need some tread. Yes they are slower than the 30mm I use as well on this bike.... however far more comfortable.

Try the flip pedals... I have the shimano 520s as my go to ones on the gravel bike.

For rhe shorts it may be worth starting out with a reasonably low cost pair to get used to them and see how they work with your saddle choice. The Castelli porjetto X2 pas is one that I really like and will chose bibs thya have it as opposed to others. However to find that one I have tried about 4 or 5 others. You might look on the wiggle website for a good range of different makes and styles/ types. Their own brand: dhb is good value and I have a few pairs of the Aeron shorts for the 2-3 hour rides.

Don’t skimp on the creams.... worrh every penny.

And above all have fun!

[masraum]

Just as a whacky side note. The guys from the shop where we've been going have done the MS150 several times. From what I understand, they've done it on single speed bikes and one guy once did it on a 20" BMX style bike.

[herr_oberst]

Not trying to be a one upper, but I've seen people do the big double century up here in the Northwest on Ice cream box-bikes, skateboards, unicycles, a 4 place tandem, and that weird stepper-bike thing. Big rides bring out the funhogs.

Be your own funhog!

[masraum]

Originally Posted by herr_oberst

that weird stepper-bike thing.

Those things are really odd.

[masraum]

Sweet! My bike was just dropped off by the brown truck. But I'm working (at home today) and won't be able to put it together for another hour or so. I think I'll have enough tools to get it together enough to ride it to the bike shop.

[Racerbvd]

Originally Posted by masraum

Sweet! My bike was just dropped off by the brown truck. But I'm working (at home today) and won't be able to put it together for another hour or so. I think I'll have enough tools to get it together enough to ride it to the bike shop.

Looking forward to seeing it.

[stevej37]

Originally Posted by masraum

Sweet! My bike was just dropped off by the brown truck. But I'm working (at home today) and won't be able to put it together for another hour or so. I think I'll have enough tools to get it together enough to ride it to the bike shop.

Phillips head and Allen wrenches will do. I've had 3 diff bikes delivered in box. Easy

[masraum]

Originally Posted by stevej37

Phillips head and Allen wrenches will do. I've had 3 diff bikes delivered in box. Easy

I've assembled and worked on bikes before, but that was a long time ago. I'm used to "goosenecks" (when they were actually one part) not stem and neck.

I do have plenty of allen wrenches, both metric and SAE and a multi-driver with a bunch of bits.

[masraum]

Originally Posted by Racerbvd

Looking forward to seeing it.

I'll post pics when It's done and has the new saddle and pedals.

[masraum]

It looks like I've got 2 options for a bike rack.

The seasucker


or Bird Automotive

[masraum]

OK, here it is, nylon tester pedals and all
My neighbor has a bike which is good, because I will need to borrow a pump to put a little air in the rear tire before I can ride it to the LBS to have them give it a once over and get my new saddle and pedals.

[masraum]

I adjusted the seat based on some guidelines that I found online, and it seems like a much better fit than when I'd go to bike shops and test ride and the guys would eye-ball the fit. Most of the time, it left me and my wife barely able to reach the pedals at the bottom of the stroke. I rode the bike to my LBS tonight. The guy checked it out and adjusted it. And then I road it home and my keister is fine. Granted, it's only a mile each way, but it was much more comfortable than almost all of the test rides that we took. The bike feels great. Now I just have to ride it enough to feel at home with it.

[aigel]

Nicely done! That seat angles forward quite a bit, maybe it is the perspective?

That seasucker bike rack sure looks slick but also like you'll have a fork in your skull or neck if rear ended by an SUV, I'd go with the bird for safety reasons!

And remember, best bike rides are from your house, getting miles on from the start!

G

[look 171]

One way to adj your saddle height is to sit on your bike and pedal backwards with your heel on the pedal. Have Mrs. Masraum hold the bike up right from the back as you pedal. She need to keep an eye out on your tush and make sure it doesn't rock. Keep going up to the point of your hips ricking as you pedal backwards. That how they used to do it in the old days without all the fancy computer equipment. Adjustment is made in 1/8-3/16 increments form there to dial things in. You have to mindful of the for and aft adjustment of the saddle. I start with centering the seat post in the middle of the saddle as a start. As we get older, having a flat saddle is a good starting point. I like to ride my saddle with a slightly nose up position to hold me up on those long rode. Saddle pointing down maybe more comfortable but many times you will pay the price of having to use your arms and shoulders to hold yourself upright. Not fun on those long rides. Remember adjustment should be dialed in by moving in increments of about 1/8" or so and go ride it for a week or two before making more adjustment.

[masraum]

Originally Posted by look 171

One way to adj your saddle height is to sit on your bike and pedal backwards with your heel on the pedal. Have Mrs. Masraum hold the bike up right from the back as you pedal. She need to keep an eye out on your tush and make sure it doesn't rock. Keep going up to the point of your hips ricking as you pedal backwards. That how they used to do it in the old days without all the fancy computer equipment. Adjustment is made in 1/8-3/16 increments form there to dial things in. You have to mindful of the for and aft adjustment of the saddle. I start with centering the seat post in the middle of the saddle as a start. As we get older, having a flat saddle is a good starting point. I like to ride my saddle with a slightly nose up position to hold me up on those long rode. Saddle pointing down maybe more comfortable but many times you will pay the price of having to use your arms and shoulders to hold yourself upright. Not fun on those long rides. Remember adjustment should be dialed in by moving in increments of about 1/8" or so and go ride it for a week or two before making more adjustment.

That's exactly how I got the height adjusted. I didn't even touch the angle. I'll look at that once I get my new saddle (tonight) and put that on. We plan to go for a ride on Sat.

[Bill Verburg]

Fitting is an art + science, when in doubt listen to your body. Initial fitment will hopefully get you into the ball park but the details and subsequent use will usually mean changes

Here's a guy that has a good handle on things and explains the why pretty well
Steve Hogg bike fitting