What happened to the Mulholland "King of the Hill" RSR?

[dmull]

Hi Chris,
I'm not sure if my email message got through to you last week, but on behalf of Petrolicious.com, we would possibly like to do a story about your RSR to feature on the site. If interested, you can contact me to discuss further at David@CarBuildIndex.com.
Looking forward to it.
David

[Banning]

It seemed logical to repeat these steps for the driver's side and finish the B Pillar first.
I cut out a metal tab and bent it so it would fit flush with the body and the pillar.
Using a clamp, I could adjust the position to fit just right.



Here is a view from the outside.
Visible is the cut-off body reinforcement that Targas have for the main hoop.
You can also see a small portion of the original paint. Bright Green.



While Ruben was pulling the B Pillar into it's position, I MIG welded it in.



Alignment is perfect, check the door moulding channel for straightness.
The doors close perfectly with even seam thickness all around.



Then with the MIG I welded all around the base of the pillar.
We could not do this with the passenger side due to the bottom of it's pillar was cut short with a cutting torch.
The person who cut it should have used a Sawzall instead.

[Banning]

Using tin snips and metal strap, I cut out some squares to correct the missing part of the passenger side b pillar bottom.



Then they were welded in to re-box the pillar.
Here it is partially done.



There are some large holes in the center tunnel of a 911 for the shifter and rear shift linkage, etc.



I found some old diamond plate Aluminum in the shed to use to cover the holes as needed.



Cut with a skill saw and finished with the grinder and file.

[Banning]

The body feels much stiffer now and quite an improvement over the Targa already.
Time to complete the main part of this conversion.

Taking the same template from the passenger side splice and reversing it, only slight modifications were necessary to fit it into place.



Then again using the template, sheet metal was cut into the same shape.
Here is the driver's side splice sitting in position.



Will adjust and weld in the splice.
Then all 6 connection points for the roof will be done and only needs minor finishing to complete.

We are going to paint this puppy soon I hope.
One of the next steps is to install the Roll Cage since welding it in after paint would damage the paint.

[Banning]

While preparing to finish the last pillar I could see that is was off and not lining up perfectly with the body.



Looking down the drip-rail, you can see the match is off by about 1/2" laterally.



At this point I spent some time playing around with it by tugging it into position in different ways. It was just too stiff to easily pull out into position. Perhaps if I could bench press 500 lbs. I could do it.

If I use a Come-a-long for example to pull it into position, it may work but will put tremendous stress on the other connection points for the roof.
The roof should be as relaxed as possible. It seemed ok to pull out the b pillar slightly but not this.

So the best solution is to make a "relief cut" allowing a light bend outwards 1/2".
Using a skill saw I was able to adjust to the desired depth. Holding the saw upside down, sitting on the rear-seat middle hump (ouch), with sparks in my face, I was able to complete the cut, with a little cussing in between.



Here is a close up view.



After pulling the C Pillar outwards gently it came right into position and the splice now fitted well.
The pillar pulled out evenly and does not show any damage or deformation.
I will re-weld the "relief cut" to restrengthen the roof corner.

[TCracingCA]

The only thing different I would have done would have been to cut the roof posts to exactly the same length/shape and then patterned the patch side to side connections identical and if relief cuts were needed, put then on both sides at the same width and place. I just like to mirror or duplicate from side to side, what I do equally on some car metal projects- fender installs, headlight bucket replacement, cutting out rusted sections etc.. But looking in, a roof install is on par with some of the more difficult metal working projects. I like that you aren't forcing and leaving it relaxed. That will go along way with the paint lasting and not fracturing. A lot of thought in this one! Good job!!!

[Banning]

Originally Posted by TCracingCA

The only thing different I would have done would have been to cut the roof posts to exactly the same length/shape and then patterned the patch side to side connections identical and if relief cuts were needed, put then on both sides at the same width and place. I just like to mirror or duplicate from side to side, what I do equally on some car metal projects- fender installs, headlight bucket replacement, cutting out rusted sections etc.. But looking in, a roof install is on par with some of the more difficult metal working projects. I like that you aren't forcing and leaving it relaxed. That will go along way with the paint lasting and not fracturing. A lot of thought in this one! Good job!!!

Thanks for your good comments. It would have been nice to mirror the adjustments on both sides but had to get to this point to see it needed it. I'm just winging it anyway. I was never trained in body work professionally. I learned it on my own and I'm quite the amateur.

This is just so much fun, I'm having a really good time modifying this Targa. An interesting challenge is always a good experience for each of us.

If you have a dream, pursue it!

As John Lennon said, "Live is what happens while we are busy making plans" so make the best use of your time.

[Banning]

With the MIG, I stitched the splice into the car.



In this photo, you can see how the roof smoothly transitions to the body at the splice.


Here's another view of the quarter panel.



After using the MIG, I used the Oxy/Acetylene gas welder to finish the seam.
I had some difficulty going over the MIG welds and making a smooth continuous seam weld.
Also the area around the weld began to warp a little. Something expected while gas welding sheet metal.
Any warping will be hidden when we finish the area with Bondo.

I may use the MIG from now on to finish the job since it does not warp the panels. Still thinking on this.

[Banning]

With rain expected, I thought it best to sand the bare metal and primer it before it rusts.
I can finish the welding after the rain has passed.
Both the outside and inside of the splice were painted with automotive primer.



The dark grey primer blended the parts together nicely.



Left rear quarter panel beginning to look good.



Right rear quarter beginning to look good also.



After stepping back, I thought, "We have Coupe", LOL



Before putting the new car cover on, I washed the car to remove all the dust and dirt.



The Targa now safer from rusting. Protected from the recent work done.
It looked different now with a car cover on. Almost like a 911 coupe.

[Banning]

After working on some of the other projects I have going, we are back at the Targa conversion.

The C pillars need to be completed. Porsche 911 cars all have their pillars boxed in for strength.
This is close up view of the inside of the C pillar showing the missing parts.



Another view, this is the driver's side of the car.



Same procedure as for the outside of the pillar. Make a pattern first. This is the passenger side of the car.



The splice pattern fits well. Also small pieces cut for the window frame form.



Then using tin snips another duplicate was cut out of sheet metal.

[Banning]

Here is the new splice for the inside of the right rear C pillar.
Some forming was needed to make it fit well over the raised portions using hammer and anvil.



Using a C clamp the splice can be held temporarily while welding it in.
Just tacking for now.

[Banning]

Another splice pattern made for the driver's side C pillar interior.



Here's the last splice fitting into position.



After tacking in both splices, right and left, just a few things remain.

[Banning]

Driver's side inner splice tacked in.



Now showing the left inner splice fully MIG'd in.



The passenger side is shown here, also full seam welded.



Closer view shows the gap between the inner and outer splices, about 1 inch wide.

[Banning]

Here is the underside relief cut in the C-Pillar.
This will have to be repaired to put the strength back into the rear left pillar.



Here is the patch that will fix the problem.



A clamp holds it into position while tacking.



Now fully welded, this section of the roof is as strong as before.

[merbesfield]

What are you doing for rear window? Are you planning on shaving gutters?

[Banning]

These gaps between the inner and outer splices must be repaired.



Boxing in the rear pillars will greatly increase their strength.



First however the curves at this point must be made like the original curves in a coupe body.
Using a drill and rasp attachment, this is easily done.



Close up view.



When done it looks much improved.
All splice curves are treated in this manner to get ready for the next step.

[Banning]

Using the same sheet metal, this tab was cut and welded into the gap.



Same treatment for other side.



Now for the final gaps in the rear window area.



Here is the completed left C Pillar, full boxed in and now super strong.

[Banning]

Originally Posted by merbesfield

What are you doing for rear window? Are you planning on shaving gutters?

Interesting you mention that. A few friends that come over regularly have asked me the same question.
(The Carrera has "cut" or shaved drip-rails along with it's lowered roof and also has a flush rear window).

I'm attempting to convert a Targa into a Coupe and I think leaving on the drip-rails will lend to it's credibility when completed.

Now because this roof only extends so far down the C Pillars, we are missing some of the roof's drip-rail where it ends abruptly.
However I saved the A Pillars that I cut off of the replacement roof and they still have their drip-rails on them.

Using a Sawzall, Ruben cut off the drip-rails from the discarded pieces.

[Banning]

First the area must be prepared by grinding down flush.



This will allow the fitting of the new drip-rail to the body.



Here is the area prepared and ground down.



The new drip-rail must be straight with the lines of the roof's rails.
It also must be the correct length. This piece is slightly long.
On a 911 coupe, the drip-rails stop about half an inch short of the rear deck lid opening.

[Banning]

Here is the rail cut to fit. I thought it better to stop short of the deck lid opening about 1 inch since bondo is visible near it.



Here it is tacked into place. Looks straight and fits well.



After some finishing work and paint, the drip-rail should look like original.