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Here's one for you, Richard.....
Paul Stecklair Sunset Cliffs, San Diego, California ~ June 24, 2009 Photo: Joe Ewing https://scontent.ftpa1-2.fna.fbcdn.n...ac&oe=604C761A |
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Dane Kealoha
Makaha ~ 1994 Photo: Warren Bolster https://scontent.ftpa1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...9c&oe=6053919A |
Mike Hynson
Cape St Francis ~ 1963 Photo: Bruce Brown https://scontent.ftpa1-2.fna.fbcdn.n...fe&oe=6054BE44 |
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Another great man from the day, Larry Bertlemann.
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Quote:
Love the pic'. There is a nature/bird reserve just around the corner from Cape Saint Francis. I dunno, some reason like VERY deep water just off shore then hits the sandbars. Woooo, a very heavy duty wave. All the local boys were nature enthusiasts so the could have a key to get into the reserve LOL |
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Thanks for the link. Nice little film. I'm always amazed how great a song Fire on the Mountain is, and it's only two chords the whole time.
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You're welcome, Charlie....thanks for the post! They did an amazing job on that film.....just fantastic!
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Playa Sunzal, El Salvador
This smooth style of surfing is what I call GLIDING...very nice! <iframe width="953" height="536" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/nKufn1tIVD4" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe> |
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Montgomery Ernest Thomas Kaluhiokalani 1958-2013
Known as 'Buttons', this beautiful man from Hawaii was the single fin maestro we used to look to in the 1990s when everyone was seduced by pointy nosed, banana-rockered 2 inch thick 'thrusters' and that ugly style of surfing they encourage. Because Buttons could do anything (and more) on his 1970's shapes, the freedom of no leg rope made it even more joyful to watch. As we get more into surfing we realise that it isn't about the board or even really the wave, it is about the soul of the rider, their sensitivities, their character and their dance; the oneness with the gyro-energy that is a wave and how they interact with it. <iframe width="953" height="536" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/LIoFg7JECHc" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe> |
At dawn of time, man crawled from ocean onto land, stupid idiot at dawn tomorrow go back....
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