My Own Surfing Thread!

[JCF]

Found this little Classic last year - fantastic board. My favorite.

Check out what was written along the stringer - doesn't get any more late 70's than that !
Brings back that first time I saw a glassy Steamer Lane every time I grab it.

Question for any past or present Santa Cruz locals :

Anybody know who Jerry Amello was ?

[Baz]

Edit:
Sorry....my video disappeared! Hate when that happens.......

[pete3799]

Wow..... that's an amazing video.

[Geary]

That's some of the nicest, crystal clear footage I've ever seen. Our son surfed Teahupoo a number of times with his Tahitian friends (although not that large).

[tevake]

Thanks for posting that Baz. That was shot during the ASP contest last year. And was the outcome of some of the biggest conditions ridden there and the presents of the film crew there for the contest, with the special camera gear. Outstanding.
The impression that I had at the time was how do guys survive the consequents of wiping out? The jet ski rescue guys were heroic. Still, Check out what happened to Keala, a girl that grew up just down the street here in haena. OUCH!
http://www.adventure-journal.com/2011/09/keala-kennelly-gruesomely-injured-in-teahupoo-wipeout/

[Bill Douglas]

Originally Posted by tweezers74

I bought my stick!!!!!! So stoked right now! It's a 9'0" South Coast Longboard! 3" thick.

Wise choice. Nice and floaty, the extra length will make for easy take offs. Lots of fun.

My Malibu is 9'11" And a few times people have said "Wow, that was a really fast wave you caught.", or something like that. I say "That's because it's a 911.", but they don't seem to get the joke - oh well, if people are that dumb I can't help them.

And! When you are not surfing the board it will make excellent wall art.

[Baz]

Originally Posted by tevake

Thanks for posting that Baz. That was shot during the ASP contest last year. And was the outcome of some of the biggest conditions ridden there and the presents of the film crew there for the contest, with the special camera gear. Outstanding.
The impression that I had at the time was how do guys survive the consequents of wiping out? The jet ski rescue guys were heroic. Still, Check out what happened to Keala, a girl that grew up just down the street here in haena. OUCH!
http://www.adventure-journal.com/2011/09/keala-kennelly-gruesomely-injured-in-teahupoo-wipeout/

Holy Cow Richard!!! I hadn't heard about her accident....so happy she didn't lose an eye are worse....what a warrior!

Glad you enjoyed the video while it lasted...I just noticed it has been removed now...oh well.....here's another nice one I just ran across....mahalo my friend...

[Baz]

Rincon Point, California, October 13, 2011.
Film/Edit: Michael Kew
peathead.blogspot.com
Song: Sonny Chillingworth: "Moe 'Uhane"

Featured surfer: Tom Curren...returning to his roots.

[ckissick]

I had a friend who caught such a long ride at Rincon that he had to hitch hike back. He said he surfed all the way to the pier with the oil rig (Richfield Pier). That's about 2.5 miles. That's what he told me, anyway.

[john70t]

[Baz]

If you have surfed for any length of time - you'll recognize the name of legendary Australian surfer Michael Petersen who practically dominated professional surfing in the 70's.....until everything unraveled.........

New movie out and here's the trailer:



More about MP:

[Bill Douglas]

Originally Posted by ckissick

I had a friend who caught such a long ride at Rincon that he had to hitch hike back.

Back in the day at Jefferies Bay it was tempting to hitch a ride back. And yes, it really is like the postcards.

[Baz]

Originally Posted by Bill Douglas

Back in the day at Jefferies Bay it was tempting to hitch a ride back. And yes, it really is like the postcards.

That's cool Bill...that you have been there...it's on my "bucket list" of must-see places to visit......

[Bill Douglas]

It's a great place Bazza. Most of the time it was the most amazing 3' to 4' breaking into head high tubes at supertubes. I got it a couple of times at 6' and the wave faces were something like double overhead, but it was very surfable. Usually I find 6' a bit intimidating, but Jefferies is so predicatable (just go right LOL) that you just go for it every time. A cheap country to travel in and VERY friendly locals, and not dangerous unless you do something really stupid.

Umm, it seemed crazy pulling out of a perfect wave for no good reason, but when you have already surfed it for 300 yards, and there is a whole day of the same waves to be had.

[Baz]

Originally Posted by Bill Douglas

It's a great place Bazza. Most of the time it was the most amazing 3' to 4' breaking into head high tubes at Supertubes. I got it a couple of times at 6' and the wave faces were something like double overhead, but it was very surfable. Usually I find 6' a bit intimidating, but Jefferies is so predictable (just go right LOL) that you just go for it every time. A cheap country to travel in and VERY friendly locals, and not dangerous unless you do something really stupid.

Umm, it seemed crazy pulling out of a perfect wave for no good reason, but when you have already surfed it for 300 yards, and there is a whole day of the same waves to be had.

Thanks for the info Bill...sounds INSANE! Can't wait to hit it!

[Baz]

John John Florence In Surprise Excitement Party - TransWorld SURF



We're going to see a LOT MORE of John John Florence...he's still very young but obviously has the X factor!

[tevake]

Hey Baz it is going to be interesting to see how Jon Jon does out on tour. It has proven tough for some to keep their performance up while doing the tour. No doubt that he is surfing on the cutting edge on the North Shore.
I loved that vid of Tom Curran at rincon, That is the size of waves that are/were the most fun for me. And he still rips. One of the very best of his era. And still beautiful to watch, thanks.

Bill "
Umm, it seemed crazy pulling out of a perfect wave for no good reason, but when you have already surfed it for 300 yards, and there is a whole day of the same waves to be had."

I know the feeling, and it is so contrary to what you will get away with in most lineups. While surfing some of the very uncrowded breaks in French Polynesia with perfect waves rolling thru. And choosing to let a few slide by cause you were just a few feet out of place or still a little winded from paddling out, or just wanted a pause for a few moments. Seems unthinkable in most situations, that's when you know you are is a sweet spot. :-)

Oh and how was your gold hunting trip to the south Island?

Cheers Richard
_

[Bill Douglas]

Originally Posted by tevake

Oh and how was your gold hunting trip to the south Island?

Kind of you to ask. I hads a great time. GF, dog and I stayed in a tent most of the time. Here is her plus dawg on the banks of Lake Avimore



Here is me doing some fishing. I caught one trout and one salmon.



GF got her own paddleboard for Christmas. That's Mount Cook in the background.



But NO gold, here is me trying along the river in the Dansy's Pass road. Maybe next year LOL.



Probably the dog had the best time of any of us chasing rabbits everywhere. Back on surfing topic; I had to keep moving to catch the interislander ferry but the big righthand point break Mangamanunu was working really well - argh, always the way.

[lowyder993s]

[QUOTE=Baz;6501475]If you have surfed for any length of time - you'll recognize the name of legendary Australian surfer Michael Petersen who practically dominated professional surfing in the 70's.....until everything unraveled.........

New movie out and here's the trailer:



I'll need to check that out.
Another one that is a classic...MR was/is my hero and was able to get a custom board made by hime a coupl years ago when we went to Oz:

[tevake]

Seeing that the pro tour is now run from Australia by Aussies goes to show how successful they were in their quest to bring professionalism to the sport. And to dominate that sport
Ive heard that the amateur system in Au is the best organized and run in the world which works to produce the most contest savy guys coming onto the pro tour.

All I can say is good on em.

Bill have you gotten into surfing with the SUP board? Nice pics of your trip. Looked like fun. Got to train the dog to sniff out the nuggets, gold that is:-)
Was that a bird cage traveling with you?

Cheers Richard