My Own Surfing Thread!

[Baz]

Originally Posted by Geary

A couple old shots of our kid hotdoggin' it (sorry for the photo-of-photo quality)

Those are some very impressive photos of your son, Geary. Hotdoggin' is right!

I thought the photo quality was just fine - we all have old photos in various conditions - it's all good if surfing content!

Thanks for the cool post!

[tweezers74]

Originally Posted by Geary

A couple old shots of our kid hotdoggin' it (sorry for the photo-of-photo quality)

Frontside:




Backside:

Wow! Whenever I look at pics like that, I am so amazed. What it must feel like to be able to do that! What a rush! I always get a slight rush watching snowboarding and surfing videos. I always wonder what it would be like to ride a barrel. To see the inside of water. Just amazing!

[Geary]

More hotdogging ..





.. and charging big Pipeline ..

[tweezers74]

Crazy!!! I love that middle one. Keep posting!!

[Geary]

San Diego 1967 (college days), a week before going from my 9' 7" long board to a 5' 4" short board:






Maalaea 1980



A bit of a story to this tube/noseride .. I'm just glad someone took a photo at this precise moment.

[tweezers74]

Love the second and third pic. If that was me, I would get that second one blown up poster size. Simply awesome.

[Geary]

OK .. not action material, but this photo is too sweet not to share with you snowboarders:

[tweezers74]

Are you a little bug in my head, Geary? I just bought a new leash for my surfboard.

And I am going snowboarding next weekend, so this pic is so timely. Trying to get a couple more riding highs in before the snow goes away. Although I hear Mammoth is going to stay open all summer. Whether its the ocean or the snow, it's always good.

[Geary]

Get it while you can, Tweez .. Mammoth's on my radar too. I doubt they'll be open 'til July 4th this season, but they've still got some good carving runs open presently. (Great recent news that Mammoth is reopening June Mountain next year.)

[tweezers74]

Originally Posted by Geary

Get it while you can, Tweez .. Mammoth's on my radar too. I doubt they'll be open 'til July 4th this season, but they've still got some good carving runs open presently. (Great recent news that Mammoth is reopening June Mountain next year.)

I have never been to Mammoth though I have heard its awesome. I am going to Colorado. Might try to go the next two weekends if I can swing it. Then it's focusing on getting to San Diego with my surfboard.

[lowyder993s]

Originally Posted by Geary

A bit of a story to this tube/noseride .. I'm just glad someone took a photo at this precise moment.

Well then...COUGH IT UP!!!

BTW...10 yrs before I started surfing San Diego!

[tweezers74]

Originally Posted by lowyder993s

Well then...COUGH IT UP!!!

BTW...10 yrs before I started surfing San Diego!

Yeah, give us the scoop!

And woo hoooo!!!! Was able to mix business with pleasure. Going snowboarding this coming weekend and next weekend in Colorado! So stoked. Can't wait to get in that snow! Wonder if its still good. But anything is better than AZ snow... Which is nothing right now! Ready to get my stoke on. My head needs it.

[Shaun @ Tru6]

Surfing shirts for Fall. Sadly, I think this is the closest I'll ever be to surfing again.

[tweezers74]

I really like the top one, Shaun!

And why no more surfing? Because of injuries from your accident? That makes me sad.

[Shaun @ Tru6]

Yeah, my right hip isn't what it used to be, at least I can bike so am thankful for that. Don't be sad! I'm more grateful in the bigger picture.

[Geary]

Well, OK .. since you twist my arm
Anyone who knows the Maalaea surf break is aware of how fast the wave is. So fast in fact, that few waves are actually made all the way through. Consequently, the main take-off spot utilizes only the last third of the wave, where the chances of "making it" are much higher. (At most surf breaks there's a huge pack of guys sitting outside and a few guys picking off smaller waves on the inside. At Maalaea it's reversed .. the huge pack sits inside, and anyone paddling out beyond the main take-off spot limits their chances of making the wave dramatically .. like way less than a 10% chance.)

A few of us sit far outside at Maalaea for more elbow room, realizing that we might not actually make a single wave that day. But every once in a while a magic one comes along, where one can actually make it through the "Pipeline" zone, all the way through the main pack of surfers, and then through the inside line up. This wave was one of those. Not only was I tubed for almost the entire wave, but it was also the unofficial nose-riding record for Maalaea, as witnessed by dozens and documented by the photographer. The moment that I remember most about the wave (hooting at two of my friends to please not take off) was captured by the photo .. and yes I made the wave, going quite a ways further and casually kicking out on the far inside. One of those magic days that I'll never forget.

[lowyder993s]

Great story...worth the wait!

[tevake]

Cool story Geary!!
I moved to Maui for the windsurfing years ago, when I had it real bad and needed the fix. Ran a boat out of Maalaea while there, and can testify to the speed of that wave!!
Looks from the pics like your son is a chip off the old block.
Loved the vintage board collection, is the wood Vanieir koa? Beautiful.

Cheers Richard

[Geary]

I had to grab that koa board, Richard. It's the only one up there without any history, but it's so beautiful, it rounds out the display. (I've been searching for that photo of BK styling it in '67 San Diego, but no luck so far ..)

[Baz]

Wow Geary....impressive & amazing story!!!!!!!

Thanks for all your postings...I really like that pic of you on the nose...classic!