Engine Drop/Stand Question

[Tbone425]

I would reach out to some locals. Someone likely has everything you need collecting dust that they would loan you. I have it all in Seattle if you are near. Lots of good info in this thread. Only things I would add: put the yolk on the motor, lift it with a hoist, put the stand onto the yolk, then lower them together to the ground. The stand is much easier to manipulate than the motor. The other must have (imho) is blocks. I went to a lumber stor and bought a 10’ 8x10” timber that they cut into 18” blocks for me. It’s what they use for setting houses on to move them. They serve many purposes. For drops I use the jack adapter with the trans extension ( easier to drop together ). It also give you some angle to work with. The motor is well balanced and Rick solid on the jack adapter. Just go slow to make sure you are not hanging up anyplace. I set the motor on blocks that span the jack, sitting on the heat exchangers. From there the yolk, hoist, stand operation launches.

The blocks are great because you can build safety spaces when you are working under the car as well (my faith in 13yo Chinese welders is limited). I got a $20 HF piano cart to put the blocks on for storage and to roll them around on.

Motor drops in these cars are pretty simple. I prefer it to having a sb350 hanging 5’ in the air above a car

[mike sampsel]

Originally Posted by piscator

Engine's out! Thanks to everyone for the help and support!!

Nice work sir piscator!

I see you used a craftsman ATV jack for the engine. Is your plywood attached or just centered on the jack? Thinking of going the ATV jack route myself.

Where were your jack stands placed?

[mike sampsel]

Originally Posted by 911T70

This is how I do it - works well for me... and cinder blocks are cheap!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SxAcLwzAJ3w

911T70

Would you please provide the dimensions on the board on top of your ATV jack? I’m assuming it’s wider than 24 inches to get the blocks underneath.

[911T70]

Originally Posted by mike sampsel

911T70

Would you please provide the dimensions on the board on top of your ATV jack? I’m assuming it’s wider than 24 inches to get the blocks underneath.

I keep the 911 at our cottage where I have a heated garage so I don't have access to the board at the moment. I'll be going up there in a few days and I can take measurements. Hopefully this photo will give you a good idea of its size.

[911T70]

Originally Posted by mike sampsel

911T70

Would you please provide the dimensions on the board on top of your ATV jack? I’m assuming it’s wider than 24 inches to get the blocks underneath.

The board is 35" wide, 24" deep.

Hope this helps!

[Gene Smith]

Is fantastic and what I modeled my equipment from. Thanks a lot!

[pampadori]

has anyone else noticed that the yolk is a smaller diameter on the male end than the female receiver on most of the HF engine stands? I had to return one and purchase another because i didn't pay attention and they weren't compatible. I just assumed they were all the same size....

[Walt Fricke]

+1 on not using a come-along for hoisting.

I used to do that, using the I beam which runs fore and aft between the two sides of my garage as a support. Then one day the come along slipped. Happily, the engine wasn't up much, so no harm. But I was reminded of the warning which comes on come-alongs - not for vertical lifting.

The simplest way to get an engine off of the floor or a low dolly or whatnot, and up onto a stand, is the Armstrong method: two fairly strong people. Nowadays, that is more than is comfortable for my wife and me, so the chain hoist does the trick. The fact that I mounted it on a traveler on the I beam, where it lines up perfectly with the yoke holder in a reinforced mount on my reinforced work bench, is the frosting on this cake. It is a long way from my first rebuild, done right on the floor, or the ones done on an inexpensive engine stand (which worked fine even though the factory yoke was a bit of a loose fit - maybe some models are way too loose a fit?).

[mike sampsel]

Originally Posted by Walt Fricke

+1 on not using a come-along for hoisting.

I used to do that, using the I beam which runs fore and aft between the two sides of my garage as a support. Then one day the come along slipped. Happily, the engine wasn't up much, so no harm. But I was reminded of the warning which comes on come-alongs - not for vertical lifting.

The simplest way to get an engine off of the floor or a low dolly or whatnot, and up onto a stand, is the Armstrong method: two fairly strong people. Nowadays, that is more than is comfortable for my wife and me, so the chain hoist does the trick. The fact that I mounted it on a traveler on the I beam, where it lines up perfectly with the yoke holder in a reinforced mount on my reinforced work bench, is the frosting on this cake. It is a long way from my first rebuild, done right on the floor, or the ones done on an inexpensive engine stand (which worked fine even though the factory yoke was a bit of a loose fit - maybe some models are way too loose a fit?).

You can’t have too many engines !

Anyone out there willing to come over to my place and participate in an “Armstrong method”? Food and beer provided .

Thanks for these photos, liking the stout rope or “rubber bands” at the rear by the fan. It’s likely how I’ll get mine off my cart with a 2 ton engine hoist.

If I’d have just left the sheet rock off the ceiling... sigh ...

Really thanks from me.

And to 911T70 thanks for the 35x24 datum.