I read that it was a super cool mid late 70s mid funsie. Here a photo: https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f2d265645e.jpg


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Yup that one came off no problem after removing the circlip


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I don't recall having to take that one off. When you split the transaxle from the engine, the fork should now be able to rotate out of the way.

Agree. It's a common error. That roll pin is almost impossible to remove w/o damage.

There's a concurrent thread on the forum about that same question.

S

A '77 should look like this? Not sure what year the omega spring appeared.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1586404730.jpg

Alright, I got them apart. I used a screwdriver to “flip” the lower arm frontwards, which disengaged the clutch. I then slowly pried apart the tran from the engine w some large screwdrivers.

Trackrash, your comment had my curious but no, 77s have the omega spring. I decoded the trans serial and it’s correct for this year (915/61 717 6782). Engine serial was correct also (6273390)

I took tons of photos just to document it. Behold a severely neglected engine that leaks at pretty much every point you can think of. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...16a79737b9.jpg


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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...e273c8e858.jpg


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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ad90f4d8f8.jpg


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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f4129f775e.jpg


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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...3cbc36d3f5.jpg


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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...7750b166a7.jpg

End of the night. Borrowing a hoist tomorrow to load it onto the engine stand; do I need to remove the efi stuff in order to use the lift hook? Seems like straps would smash it.


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I would have suggested a pre-soak with water-based cleaner, then a hot shower at a local DIY car wash. Can be done at any time during disassembly, but it takes time to prep before a rebuild.

S

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b1c2d785df.jpg

Got her up! Plan tomorrow is to flip it over and inspect jug to head/case areas for signs of leakage, check headstuds and do a leakdown. Fingers crossed. It would be super super awesome to just clean this up and replace a ton of gaskets without spending a ton of money. [emoji1696]


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Good luck, I will be watching.

...I hope (for the sake of your wallet) that you can toss some gaskets at the thing and be on your way. Neat car: Andial is unique - you have any history on this sled?

Damm, is that thing oily and appears to have been leaking for quite some time. Lots of hours, brushes, degreasers and gloves ahead for you. With luck, some gaskets and other seals will do the trick on the leaks and you can focus $$ on exhaust and other mechanicals.
Any local Pelicans or P car guys to tap for help?

Alright; updates:

I pulled the lower valve covers and I found one completely loose head stud on one side, and two loose ones on the other side. All of them tightened up. I’m going to attempt to retorque them to 20 ft lbs and see what happens.

Question: How can I pressure wash this thing without hurting it? Obv I would bolt the valve covers back on, but I still have open intake ports. Thoughts?


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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...c25b282076.jpg also what is the point of all this RTV?

There should be no RTV in those locations. Someone's attempt at keep or fix rocker shafts from leaking. There are seals that can be used on the shafts to aid in sealing that area (RSR rocker shaft seals).

john

Thanks! That’s what a figured. Whoever worked on this did not know what they were doing at all. There is RTV everywhere.

So just tried retorquing my headstuds, kept getting tighter and tighter no clock from the torque wrench. I fear I have over tightened everything. I tested my torque wrench at 20 ft lbs on a lugnut of one of my other cars. Car could be rolled forward without any auditory click from my torque wrench.

So now what? Loosen all head studs and retorque w a new torque wrench?

Also, any tips about how to pressure wash one of these without hurting things would be appreciated.


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IF you have had case savers installed previously, you should have no problems re-torquing the head studs. If not be careful. A small accurate torque wrench would help. If you strip the threads in the case, you will have to completely disassemble.

I would hesitate to pressure wash or even put a water hose on it. I have a Mahle cylinder sitting on my desk right now that apparently got water in it at one point causing corrosion.