For pressure washing, I usually stuff blue shop towels inside each intake runner, then seal it off with duct tape.

spray the engine degreaser then use a parts wash brush to really work at the stubborn bits. Let it soak then spray it with pressure washer. If you don't have the "turbo" rotating head for your pressure washer, get one.

When things are extra nasty, I've used kerosene or camp fuel, work it in with a brush, rinse with kerosene and then move on to the degreaser. its messy, but effective.

I've used a parts tray with kitty litter in it to absorb the mess as it rolls off, helping with clean-up.

Will pressure washing damage any of the seals? I have a gas one. It’s pretty gnar.


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Select your nozzle accordingly. try not to aim it at direct sealing surfaces. It looked like crankcase breather had RTV smeared on it as well.

Mine has the remnants of mud wasp nests that even the machinist hot tank can't get out. case will be wire wheeled and soda blasted.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1587172798.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1587172906.jpg

Episode 1 is up:


https://youtu.be/QQ_jFiTON2g


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Pretty geeked about this. Pressure washed stuff today and found out the case is mag.


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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f57c0c50fb.jpg


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Video #2 is up: Engine & Trans Removal without a lift, complete how to. Let me know if I missed anything:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W870A-EizDE

Episode 3: Initial inspection of the engine and transmission, and checking for pulled out or broken headstuds. The engine ran okay before I pulled it to refresh it, but I wasn't sure what the source of my strange exhaust leak sounding noise was. Being a 77, it has a magnesium case, so I was expecting the worst!

A lot of this will be pretty basic info for most of you, but I'm unfamiliar with this engine so I'm learning as I go, and so far I've learned a lot. Next step, leak down!

Link:
https://youtu.be/-0gUImuE5e0
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/-0gUImuE5e0" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

If you want to know Andial, call Dwayne @ Vision in SoCal, the outfit was his first job.

Yes, HF leakdown gauges read high and are unreliable.
I would not recommend re-ringing a 2.9 engine without thorough measurement of the cylinders because if you are getting blow by it's probably because the cylinders have gone out of round and re-ringing will only make it worse. The cylinder walls on the 2.9 sets are very thin and are prone to go out of round over time. Keeping the engine temps down is the best way to prevent this.

That's a very cool thread, I appreciate you take the time to document here and via videos.
Thanks and best of luck with your approach.

Jan

PS: Even a fully rebuild motor is not a warrant for leak-freeness. My 1972 2.4T engine was professionally rebuilt but literally pi**ed oil from between case halfes and 8th bearing. Soft mag cases tend to twist when torquing them down. Just be careful if you find traces of silicone sealant - engine sucked them in and distributes through oil passages. My engine lost 1 camshaft and 6 rocker arms through that.

Thanks Jan, I appreciate the kind words! My cams look okay so far. I guess I got lucky!

Okay, so I'm at a point where I ordered all the parts that looked like they were leaking on my car and they've arrived. I ordered oil return tubes, thermostat O ring, distributor O ring, Oil switches, Oil Pressure Senders, cam lines, valve cover gaskets, and a case gasket kit for the sump gaskets, oil breather gasket, etc, and the timing chain cover gaskets. Bunch of other stuff. Now I'm at a point where I need to make my next moves on this project, and I'd appreciate any feedback.

Okay, first up, fan and alternator questions:

1. Who sells alternator brushes? Since it's out, I'd like to throw in new ones if they're cheap.
2. Has anyone PLATED their fan? If so, with what?
3. Fan pulley/crank pulley. Because I had an AC car, I have two grooves in my pulleys. Is there a way to just swap to a single groove pulley? Any part numbers I should look for?
4. I see drilled out fan shrouds. Those are cool. What do people finish them with? IT seems like paint would get scratched and chipped during installation. Same with powdercoat. How are people installing painted/coated ones without damaging them?

Other engine finishing questions:
What parts hold up well to powdercoating? I've seen people powdercoat the engine tin, that looks pretty nice. Valve covers also. Can cam covers be powdercoated? Or is heating them up a bad idea with those plugs in them?

Zinc plating: What parts usually get zinc plated? Can I plate my lines that go from the cam lines to the tensioners? What about the pulleys? I guess I'm just a little unclear on which parts originally had zinc plating/could be zinc plated.

Lastly, I'm planning on lowering my car back onto the ground, sans engine, and rolling it outside so I can pressure wash the engine bay (after sealing all the tubes/hoses/fuel lines). The blacktop part of my driveway is on a hill. I think I'll be able to push teh car to that area, but does anybody have any tricks on how to drag it back up a hill? I can alway use ratchet straps and maybe my ATV, I'm just wondering if there is some trick I'm not thinking of and this forum is amazing for those.

Thanks in advance!

Alternator parts are available. I think there is a link in this thread. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/941604-alternator-bearings-again.html

There has been a ton of discussion on fan refinishing. The fan is magnesium, so not palatable. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/958571-cleaning-fan-housing.html

There are single pulleys available to fit your motor.

You mean drilled out fan straps. Older ones are painted, newer ones are plated. Either yellow zinc chromate or possibly cadmium. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/955801-diy-yellow-cadmium-plating-works-amazing.html

Basically all the steel hardware was yellow plated on the older cars.

You can powder coat valve covers, and the black metal parts on the car.

A bunch of friends? :D

If you're not planning on moving anytime soon, buy a big D-ring and two appropriate concrete anchors to mount it to the floor at the back of your garage. Put it under a cabinet or toolbox or similar so you don't have to see it or trip over it. You'll likely also need/want a fresh concrete drill bit.

Then a cheapo cable come-along from HF will drag your chassis up without issue. It won't be super quick, but it'll do the job.

$50-60 total investment assuming you have a drill capable of drilling a hole in the concrete floor.

Ben McFarland down in Burlington WI Cerakoted my fan, housing, timing chain covers and valve covers. Turned out awesome - Ben does really nice work. Then I bought an early 911 fan strap (the two bolt design) for like $50 from Sierra Madre already painted satin black. 25k miles later and it still looks fantastic.

Ben is on the forum - screen name mb911.

That's awesome, I was thinking of the same for the future built of my spare 2.4L. Could share some photos of the ceracoted parts? How were they prepared (media blasting, base primer etc.?

Thanks
Jan

Don’t rotate engine upside down on engine stand
 

I’ve seen it recommended to not rotate the engine exhaust side up, unless you are going to pull the heads and cylinders.
All of that nasty rusty scale you usually find in the exhaust will get into a few cylinders that have the exhaust valves open, particularly with all the banging and swearing that goes on with the exhaust removal. For sure that scale isn’t going to do your rings or P&Cs any good.
Hopefully those with engine experience will advise.
Good luck

Most guys really love their cars and want to do a first class job, but it might be wise, (sorry Wayne), to do your investigation/disassembly ,cost estimating/budget calculations first, before sending parts out to get pretty. It takes both time and money and with the slippery slope just millimeters from your toes, (and wallet)..............
Regards,
Chris

ADDvanced, not to be too critical, but many of your questions can be answered by performing a simple search of previously and thoroughly discussed topics, then reading them. Each question you asked could require an entire scrolled-screenful or more pages of repeated answers. It doesn't help when it seems you ignored early suggestions, went on your way, then ran into avoidable issues after all.

Suggest cut and paste the answers (and links) from archived threads for each build topic you have, then organize them into a chronological build order. Memory is a ***** when you have an engine to rebuild. Save your valuable time in the lengthy process of rebuilding "on a budget".

Use the internet search feature. Here's a valuable one:
https://cardiagn.com/porsche/porsche-911/

MHO,
Sherwood

Oh man, now you have me worried. Maybe I'll pull the plugs and use a shop vac while shooting compressed air in the intake ports? Anyone know what else I can do here?


Yeah, I get it, but I haven't found answers while searching. I've found sort of answers. I know people send stuff out to get plated, but I didn't ever find a definitive list. Just want to make sure I don't send stuff out and then a day later be kicking myself for not sending XYZ out, stuff like that. Definitely searching and learning a lot as I go.

This weekend I'm going to pressure wash the engine bay, and begin reassembly. Transmission was dropped off at Accumoto on Wed. If all goes well on their inspection, I may consider a Wevo gateshift kit.

Leak Down Video is up!

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This was filmed a few weeks ago so you guys already know most of what happens in this video. :)