Yes, it does have case savers. Was able to verify visually.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

When mine was on this state, I bought some Gunk, applied it after plugging everything open with rags. Used brushes to scrub and rinsed with brake cleaner.
Put large cardboard across base of engine stand to mitigate mess.
Sure miss Trichlor.

Good news!!! All head studs are now torqued to spec! Going to make a drink to celebrate! Thank you everyone for your help so far!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...5e0db79adb.jpg


So excited about this! Threw the valve covers back on, sprayed some engine degreaser on the bottom half. I'm going to tackle the leakddown test tomorrow night. If that looks good, I will be even more excited about this.

Rad! I'd clean and reseal it, clean the engine bay and do all the "while you're in there" stuff like fuel lines and call it a day.

Update: Didn't have much time yesterday, but I tried doing a leakdown test last night, but I was using a harbor freight leakdown tester. This is important, because it differs from most other leakdown testers. Instead of having TWO PSI gauges, I have one PSI gauge on the left (in), and on the right I have a "percent leaking" gauge. (THIS IS NOT MY GAUGE BTW, just a photo of what I am talking about)

https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments..._2-jpg.205086/

Now, there are issues with this leakdown tester, for sure. I have read and experienced that it really doesn't work on pressure much higher than 15 PSI, or the right gauge just pegs the needle. Doesn't make sense, but I experienced that when turning the pressure up, as did most people on the internet. I'm doing what I read on teh internet, which is, again, different than most leak down gauges. I have the spark plug hose disconnected from the gauge, and I adjust the regulator on the gauge until the right hand gauge is set at 0. I then attach it to the spark plug hose, which is threaded into the engine.

On cylinder #1 after getting it to TDC, I am showing 20-25% leak. I can hear the air in the crankcase, blowing past the rings. I have a couple thoughts about this; would a hot/oily engine have better numbers? Not sure. I'm going to spray a little oil into the cylinder to see if the numbers improve as an experiment; I think that would better represent a warmed up, running engine. The other thing, is that THIS GAUGE IS WEIRD. Look at the right hand gauge again, it shows anything below 40% as 'green'/good, and anything above 40% as yellow/bad.

Everywhere I look on the internet, people get HIGH leakdown #s with this gauge. When they use gauges that have double PSI gauges, they all seem to report much better leakdown #s, like 5%, 8%, etc. I'm super confused by this. Is it because I can't crank up the pressure on the gauge? Anything over 15PSI pegs the needle. I'm not too worried yet, I need to test the rest of the cylinders, and the big thing I'll be looking for is consistency.

Unrelated:
Also, I've been doing a lot of reading about fans. I'm going to stick with my 5 blade fan. I know common knowledge says 5 blade fans overheat or Porsche designed the 5 blade fan to run hotter, but honestly I have not had any overheating problems, and there's a lot of conflicting information in this thread:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/332048-5-blade-fan-vs-11-blade-fan.html

"Facts; the 5 bladed fan 245mm, runs at 1.8 x crankspeed, is more efficient at moving air than 11 blade, is noisier than 11 blade, is made of magnesium.

Anecdotally; I had a 5 blade oem on my '76 Carrera 3.0, it made a wonderful deep bass moan at wot. When I updated to an 11 blade 245 mm fan at 1.8 x crankspeed the moan was gone, the cooling did not measurably improve. From this I infer that it is moving roughly the same amount of air as the A series."

There are a lot of threads where people have upgraded to an 11 blade fan, and saw no decrease in oil temps..... so... because this is a budget build, I'm going to use what I have. 5 blade fan club, woot.

I'm no expert, but the motor I sold a couple of years ago sat for six months on my stand before I did a leakdown. With my home built tester I was getting 6-8% on all but one cylinder. The guy who bought the motor used a pro tester and actually got better numbers. I had put some oil in the cylinders when I pulled the motor but not right before the test.

You can make your own leak down tester with two gauges and some pipe fittings. There is a 1mm (0.040") hole between the gauges.

Seems to me, in my amateur opinion, that 25% leakage past the rings would have meant a smoky motor with lots of blowby.

Was the motor smoking or using oil?

You may want to try a compression test, if possible to see if you are not getting good compression.

As far as the fan goes the 11 blade fan is turned slower than the 5 blade one. So the flow is only slightly less than the 11 blade. That means the alternator is also spinning faster. That could mean more power and heat in the alternator, but possibly shorter life as well. So going to a 11 blade fan should also mean a different pulley ratio.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1586883482.jpg

It smoked a bit on startup after sitting, but once it was warmed up it didn't really smoke much. After reading a lot more about the HF Leakdown tester, I kind of regret buying it. Might try to acquire a different leakdown tester, but first I'm just going to make sure all 6 cylinders are consistent. Will update later tonight.

My understanding is that Porsche went with the 5 blade fan to make the motor run hotter for emissions. It’s interesting that you didn’t see any temperature changes on your 3.0 liter.
Not sure where you’re located but, Autozone has a free tool program. I’m sure they’d have a decent leak down tester.

There's a current thread on that same topic (can't remove the large clutch arm). Short story, don't have to.

Alright. All plugs are darker and sooty, but tan around the electrodes; look pretty good. The dark oil color was probably because the Car sat for a year and then I ran it for 5 minutes, so it was most likely burning off oil that had pooled in the cylinders.

Finished leakdown test, pretty stoked:


Cyl 1: 20%
Cyl 2. 15%
Cyl 3. 20%
Cyl 4. 14%
Cyl 5. 20%
Cyl 6. 17%

Pretty happy. I retested cyl 1 when I finished testing cyl #6. There was definitely a learning curve to using this specific leak tester. Could it use rings? Maybe. Would finding rings be annoying for a 2.9? Definitely. If I’m doing rings would I also want to do pistons and jugs and then bearings and.... yeah I don’t have that kind of bank account.

All in all, super rad news. Headstuds all good, leakdown test fairly consistent and no major issues. Going to read about valve guides and cams.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got around to removing the alternator/fan/shroud today. Kind of concerned w the top of the case. So first off, the breather is obviously leaking a ton of oil, could that possibly be the explanation for all the nastiness on the seam of the case in these photos? Also, not that one of the nuts on the case has backed out. That can’t be good. I wonder how many other bolts are loose. There also seems to be some moisture where the jugs meet the heads. Could this have been because of loose headstuds?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...7446336ccb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f0ce545f51.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There aren't too many traditional gaskets in these motors. They have to be bolted tightly together or they'll leak like a sieve.
That being said...once whatever seal is there is broken, it's my understanding that just squeezing it together will not make a solid seal.
I think cleaning it and replacing what seals you can and bolting it all back up tight will be a marked improvement over your previous situation. But I also think you won't remedy all of your leaks without a proper tear-down and build-up.
Sorting the triangle of death, tightening the loose fasteners, and cleaning it is a worthwhile endeavor. Just keep your expectations in line and I think you'll be fine.

With regards to sealing the intake ports for cleaning. I bought some red plastic pipe-plugs from Home Depot. They slid right in and then you tighten a wing-nut on top to squeeze them tight and create a seal. They worked very well for me for less than $30 out the door.

Wow. Those images are gigantic. Can't this forum autoresize large images? I uploaded them via Tapatalk, and the only option is a tiny photo or that gigantic size. Yikes.

Anyway, here is my main question: The breather seal is obviously leaking a lot... which explains a lot of oil all over hte back of the engine. My questions is, would the air from the fan blow the oil FORWARD, under the alternator, where I have all this gunk? Or does this look like a case leak?

Under the motor, it's hard to tell because there are so many leaks. it just seems odd to me that the case would leak 'upwards', so I'm hoping this is just a result of the air blowing the oil in strange ways.

Don't discount capillary effect.
The muck/dirt/dust that accumulates will absorb oil and move it around that way.
But given enough time, gravity will overcome all other forces.

While you have the motor out, pull the flywheel and rear pulley and replace those seals. A leaking flywheel seal will throw oil everywhere.

And replace the oil pressure warning switch if you have one. The breather hose will also make a mess if it is not tight.

Might be time to check the seals on the trans as well...

Tapatalk? Thanks for the tip. I have been trying to figure out how to upload large pics for a while.:D

leaks
 

Ok,anything more than 5-7% warrants a teardown.With the percentage of leakdown this has it creates its own problem.Lets see.You are pressurizing the bottom end with the temp of combustion.This in itself causes leaks.Just open it up and do right the 1st time.I f those are 93mm pistons John at EBS could help you find some rings.Fred

Disagree. Even in Bruce's engine rebuilding book, he says engines with 20-25% leakdown can be fine. They're not as great as a new engine, obviously, but it says specifically that is not a cause for alarm as long as cylinders are pretty consistent.

Also, as I referenced above, I am using a HF leakdown tester, which .... seems questionable. Whenever anyone uses a HF tester, the leakdown numbers are higher, because they're only using 15psi. Whenever anyone uses a normal double PSI leakdown tester, the % is lower. So I'm not too worried about it. I bet if I retested at 100psi with a proper leakdown tester, I would see lower numbers. I called around all the autoparts stores, but they only have compression testers.

I agree - clean it, seal up what you can, then drive the s*** out of it.

Worst case, it still leaks a little. But at least you can drive it while you plot your next move.

^^THIS
Drive it while you save & scheme. Not driving it forking socks.