While engine is out to do list help

[stubble88]

I bought this motor. Was running over a year ago. Has sat since.
1983 3.0 stock ~86k miles. Going into 68 chassis

Currently this is what I’m thinking of doing while motor is out:

-adding Weber carbs
-adjusting valves ( new gaskets). Anything else?
-flywheel seal and bearing
-oil tubes
-new plugs
-has the braided wires. Should I replace them?
-recurved or older distributor

What else should I do or inspect while it’s out?

Thanks.

[winders]

Get PMO carbs instead.......

[stubble88]

Originally Posted by winders

Get PMO carbs instead.......

I know. I was looking. But I found some freshly rebuilt Weber’s for $2200.
PMO’s would have been $5k.

[Charles Freeborn]

Not terribly familiar with '83's but if it's a CIS engine you won't realize the true potential of the carbs without changing pistons and cams.

[VFR750]

Replace the rubber seal. It’s installed in the chassis and seals to the engine tin.

Surprising how stiff and brittle it gets with time.

[walt]

Replace the oil pressure switch and the breather gasket in the triangle area. Upgrade to hydraulic chain tensioners if not already.

[gomezoneill]

It's wrong to put carbs on a CIS engine. It wont work. You'll need different cams and cam timing.

[30westrob]

Have you thought about cylinder studs? Rob

[fanaudical]

You might also think about stuff to do on the car while the motor is out. Fuel lines, shifter bushings, any in the tunnel is easiest to address when the motor is out. Rear swing arm bushings, too.

[al lkosmal]

do this......



regards,
al

[stubble88]

Originally Posted by walt

Replace the oil pressure switch and the breather gasket in the triangle area. Upgrade to hydraulic chain tensioners if not already.

As for the chain tensioners. Is this a must do at any mileage? It’s just a bit costly. How often do these fail on the pre 84’s?

[walt]

This was the first mod I made when the car was purchased knowing a failure of the tensioner could be catastrophic to the engine. I don't have any experience with the tensioner guards but they are very inexpensive and look easy to install. I would certainly consider this as a minimum.

Edit: They used to make a repair kit for mechanical tensioners but they may be NLA.

[OldSpool87]

You may want to smoke test the intake and look for leaks. Working on seemingly simple CIS components with the engine in is a pain.

[stubble88]

Forgive my ignorance. Still new to this motor.
But do these oil lines indicate that I already have the upgraded tensioners?

[timmy2]

Yes, tensioners are upgraded to oil fed type.

[stubble88]

Oh my. This is a big relief. I was stressing seeing the $1800 kit on pelican. Nice!! Thanks Dennis

[walt]

As for your question on the braided wires. I'd leave them at least for now, easy enough to change out later after the engine is installed.

[3rd_gear_Ted]

Replace 37 year old fuel pressure regulator and twist the crimp fittings on all the associated hoses, if any fittings spin replace all 3 hoses.

[otto_kretschmer]

I have my 76 on jackstands right now. I havn't driven the car in a decade so I'm dropping the motor to inspect everything and replace what doesn't look good.

I got the axels out today and I was looking at the grease. I replaced the boots maybe 13 years ago and cleaned and packed the cv joints. The boots and grease looks ok and I probably can get away with just bagging the joints and reinstalling as is..

but then I started thinking about the rear wheel bearings. They're probably still packed with the original grease from 1975.

I'll just clean, inspect and repack everything now.

[NY65912]

Years ago I bought a nice '80 SC with 46mm PMOs and SSIs. I put in DC40 cams, 10.5 to 1 pistons and that car screamed. Not so much for the stock 3.0 and PMOs. Oh, don't forget that the distributor needs to get recurved.