No problem! Hope it works out for you http://forums.pelicanparts.com/suppo...s/beerchug.gif

If you're going this far I would suggest you pull the heads and cylinders replace the timing chains valve job etc...

The chains look stretched that means the gears are worn. With all the work your going through you may as well go through it all. It is a slippery slope.

Not planning on that until it gets to 250,000 miles. Or I find something that makes me do it, whichever comes first.

Pulled the valve covers today and carefully torqued all the head studs to 23lbs. Many of them were loose-ish so I’m am glad I did it. Hopefully this will eliminate another source of leaks.

Should I also torque the cam housing bolts while I am there or no? The How to Modify and Build Porsche Engines book says this can be a source of leaks.

Lastly, good news on the rocker seals, I think. The areas are dry that should be (see photo). There may be a slight walking on one of the rocker shafts (see photo) should I try to reposition it to leave it since its not leaking? Planning to re-torque the rocker shaft Allen bolts when I do the valve adjustments.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1612894854.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1612894854.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1612894854.jpg
Compared to this one:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1612894854.jpg

Thanks for any advice

I would still do RSR seals. Costs not much, just an hour or two of labor, and then you'll have even fewer places to leak.

That’s a tough one for me. Not leaking a drop currently.

Is RSR a brand name? Does PP sell them?

Thanks

If they aren’t leaking, don’t touch them. Fix them one at a time if they start to leak (they probably won’t). If you disturb them some will almost certainly leak.

If they're 100% bone dry, yeah I guess, but they're so cheap and easy to do with the engine out right now.

I double that!

if the shaft is not leaking do not bother---old saying is..if it ain`t broken why fix it......

Ivan

I used RSR seals *and* wicking Loctite when assembling my (still unfired) engine.

I think I will leave shafts alone for now and keep an eye on them whenever I have the VCs off.

Should I also torque the cam housing bolts while I am there or no? The How to Modify and Build Porsche Engines book says this can be a source of leaks.

Thanks for all input.

Definitely torque cam housings

Cool! Will do.

Thanks

PMFJI, are you guys talking about the mounting fasteners or just the covers?

I did. None of them moved a bit.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1615219398.jpg

SnapGap kit is wonderful. I set my valves with feeler gauge last summer with engine in the car. Took hours.

Reset them on the engine stand yesterday with the SnapGap kit. Never used it before. In total it took 40 minutes. I wiggled each rocker to get a before-and-after feel. My guess is they were at about .2mm prior to the SnapGap procedure (twice what they should have been). Now they are at .1mm for sure.

Of course being on the engine stand helped a lot as well, but some tools are just worth the time and hassle saved. And no cursing!

I gotta try that Snapgap thing one of these days. But … I gotta tell you, wiggling the rocker and arriving at 0.2mm guess is just that, highly inaccurate guess.

Yes just a guess, as I said. May have been .25mm:)

Installed oil fed tensioners and am putting in the other bits and pieces to finish this upgrade. Only problem with the parts I have assembled so far:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1615614739.jpg

Any reason not to drill and tap a TT switch port in the left chain cover (might be time to buy a drill press)? I have a tap and die set but not one this large. I believe the TT on the left side chain cover and 15 degree switch on the right are the same threads. Offhand anyone know what size tap to buy?

Looked for a left chain cover that has both the tensioner oil line port and the threaded port for the TT switch but could not find one outside of a full kit.