do I need this rubber boot? Shift Coupler cover

[jgurnari]

I needed to adjust my coupler...was not moving into reverse as before.

When I got in there I found A LOT of fluid, maybe Trans Fluid(?), reddish, I had just had it changed.

There was a greasy, grey oily substance as well...what could that be? Thought it might be from the coupler itself (?), coupler seems to be in good condition.

The Rubber shift boot was also flopping around and I could not insert it into the tunnel opening on the back side toward the transmission. Do I need it? What is its purpose?

The DYI on Pelican, and other DYI videos on how to change / adjust a coupler do NOT show having a rubber boot cover.

It is very difficult to attach, assuming Im attaching it correctly of course, but do I really need it?

[GH85Carrera]

That boot is mostly to keep the oil, and water from the road getting though the bushing and innto the tunnel. It is a challenge to get it into place, but yea, you really should have it in place. Porsche engineers and designers put it there for a reason. The bean counters would leave it off it was not important.

The other choice is put a "diaper" of paper towels under the boot and change it every oil change.

Just get one corner started over the firewall opening, and hold one finger on it, then pull the rest of the boot over that lip. Cussing a drinking a beer helps, and might be vital!

[EC900]

As stated boots contain any trans oil leaks and most importantly debris and even mice.
Dirt accumulated in shifter rod can add wear to the seal - which in your case is leaking. Maybe one of your boots have a split or broken allowing trans oil to seep into the tunnel/inner boot.
Heat up the rubber boot with hey gun or hair dryer a bit that will help it stretch to pull it in place, zip tie or clamp. Yes you have to have dry fingers to grip tto pull it over.
But keep in mind the $10 shifter shaft seal will need to be inspected and replaced.

[jgurnari]

Pic is the inner boot that runs into the tunnel. Does the coupler boot go around that edge on the outside or into it and the tunnel??

The one in my car has the outer rubber ring and runs into the tunnel BUT is different, when I pulled it out of the tunnel a bit, the sleeve is not rubber, its a cardboard type of material...soaked in oil.

Regardless, I should pull the coupler boot OVER or INTO it?

Thanks

Originally Posted by GH85Carrera

That boot is mostly to keep the oil, and water from the road getting though the bushing and innto the tunnel. It is a challenge to get it into place, but yea, you really should have it in place. Porsche engineers and designers put it there for a reason. The bean counters would leave it off it was not important.

The other choice is put a "diaper" of paper towels under the boot and change it every oil change.

Just get one corner started over the firewall opening, and hold one finger on it, then pull the rest of the boot over that lip. Cussing a drinking a beer helps, and might be vital!

[jgurnari]

I think all the excess fluid is from when I had my trans fluid changed...but the liquidy, grey grease is odd.

Do you have a part number for a Shifter Shaft Seal? ... or is this the same as pictured?

Originally Posted by EC900

As stated boots contain any trans oil leaks and most importantly debris and even mice.
Dirt accumulated in shifter rod can add wear to the seal - which in your case is leaking. Maybe one of your boots have a split or broken allowing trans oil to seep into the tunnel/inner boot.
Heat up the rubber boot with hey gun or hair dryer a bit that will help it stretch to pull it in place, zip tie or clamp. Yes you have to have dry fingers to grip tto pull it over.
But keep in mind the $10 shifter shaft seal will need to be inspected and replaced.

[EC900]

#33. Is outer boot, slips over the lip opening on the interior tunnel side, 32 is inner boot goes over the outer boot lip.

Wonder if a paper towel was used to “control the flow” of the leaky seal as a comment mentioned earlier. The amount of a leaky seal will vary as they all do depending on the severity of the wear. Wipe clean the back of shaft from underneath if the leak was anything long term, an oil soaked crossmember is obvious as is a drip or two on the garage floor after a few days of sitting.

My PO had inner boot removed (or mech never replaced it) to make coupler adjustments easier to access as they do get in the way, but outer boot sees the most deterioration due to age and rubber breakdown from any oils. I recall all that was left of my outer boot was that lip remained attached on the tunnel opening. Exposed, that shaft gets gritty from road debris and every shift grinds away a little bit more of the seal.
Gray oil indicates presence of water moisture so it may have collected there after some rain road splash if boots were compromised. Trans oil is heavier than engine oil but will get dirty and diluted to make it gray.

If seal is found to be leaking …
Here’s Part # for seal ….
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/99911318540.htm?pn=999-113-185-40-OEM


Forum References: Shift Rod Seal R & R

Shift rod seal

[PeteKz]

If it's transmission oil, it will smell like transmission oil. Take a sniff.

The inner boot does what the others said, plus it cuts down on noise into the cabin. Unless it's a race car, leave it in place. Of course, leave the outer boot in place too..

[jgurnari]

If I put the outer boot over the lip off the tunnel how would I get the inner boot over that...you had said "the inner boot goes over the outer boot lip". the inner boot would have to go in first... I can see putting the outer boot over the inner... confused.

Originally Posted by EC900

#33. Is outer boot, slips over the lip opening on the interior tunnel side, 32 is inner boot goes over the outer boot lip.

Wonder if a paper towel was used to “control the flow” of the leaky seal as a comment mentioned earlier. The amount of a leaky seal will vary as they all do depending on the severity of the wear. Wipe clean the back of shaft from underneath if the leak was anything long term, an oil soaked crossmember is obvious as is a drip or two on the garage floor after a few days of sitting.

My PO had inner boot removed (or mech never replaced it) to make coupler adjustments easier to access as they do get in the way, but outer boot sees the most deterioration due to age and rubber breakdown from any oils. I recall all that was left of my outer boot was that lip remained attached on the tunnel opening. Exposed, that shaft gets gritty from road debris and every shift grinds away a little bit more of the seal.
Gray oil indicates presence of water moisture so it may have collected there after some rain road splash if boots were compromised. Trans oil is heavier than engine oil but will get dirty and diluted to make it gray.

If seal is found to be leaking …
Here’s Part # for seal ….
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/99911318540.htm?pn=999-113-185-40-OEM


Forum References: Shift Rod Seal R & R

Shift rod seal

[EC900]

Sorry link won’t display due to competitor parts site.
Google /how-to-replace-the-shift-coupler-boots-on-a-classic-air-cooled-porsche-911

[url]https://www.*******.com/blog

[porschedude996]

The body flange that the boots fasten to, is an odd shape with a point on the bottom. I’ve found that with the rear boot installed, hooking the front coupler boot on mentioned point and using a cotter pin extraction tool (see photo) and nurse the boot up each eide while holding pressure on the boot to the point.

I also tie a tie wrap around the flange and boots once they are in place.