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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 33
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Just placed my order for Tony’s kit. I will have lots of questions. Can’t wait to get started. Thanks Dennis for your response on Bitzracing group link.
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James 1978 911 SC Targa |
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Location: Tennessee
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Does anyone know of a different USB to serial adapter that will work other than the C250-1162 that Tony’s instructions list. It is no longer available.
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James 1978 911 SC Targa |
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Location: Houston TX
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It needs to have the FTDI chipset, they often have that listed in the description.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00005117F https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B006AA04K0 https://www.diyautotune.com/product/usb-to-serial-adapter-works-with-tunerstudio/ https://www.frys.com/product/8472038 https://www.efianalytics.com/register/browseProducts.jsp?ecuFamily=MegaSquirt&productCategory=Hardware The bluetooth transmitter kicks butt, you can have your phone sitting there giving you engine telemetry on the fly while driving.
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Mike Bradshaw 1980 911SC sunroof coupe, silver/black Putting the sick back into sycophant! |
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Location: Tennessee
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Thanks Mike, need to place another order.
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James 1978 911 SC Targa |
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Seems that 70% number was too high for reliable COLD starts now. But I'm not sure it helped on warm starts anyway, so I'm bumping it back to see. Either way, one thing I notice is my Gamma Enrichment shows about 170 right after the start, and within a few seconds it runs on down below 150 (and is no longer red) and keeps on going down for a bit. That normal?
--Donnie |
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do you mean the warm up enrichment graph?
in that case, 170 seems a bit much...mine goes to 153 maximum from -40°C to 0°C = 153, and then starts tapering off to about 105 at 40°C, and then slowly to 100 at 60°C if you starts from let's say freezing temp, then it takes a few minutes to reach the normal level (100 = no cold enrichment). Listen very carefully to your starting behaviour; - if it doesn't 'catch' easily, it has something to do with the priming or cranking pulsewidths. Dependant on ambient temperature you can make educated guesses as how to change it. - if it does catch immediately, but doesn't run very well, then you start looking into the warm up graph. The afterstart enrichment is not that important, as this event is finished after a couple of seconds. surging idle = typically too rich Just take fuel out of one of these parameters (one at a time), and listen carefully to engine behaviour at every cold start. (you got 1 shot per day!) If you are getting into lean territory, you will notice very easily: the engine will splutter, misfire, run like ****, etc...very easy to spot. Of course all of this starts with a fuel map that is in the ballpark. If the fuel map is not good, you'll be chasing your tail for a long time. ( i dynoed mine + combined it a little bit with self learning with wideband O2) Does the car run good when fully warmed up? I learned with every cold start i made during the time i have the bitz kit, and you get a very detailed feel of which parameter to change when you notice something not 100% right. Just last week, i perfected the 'cold' start at very hot outside temps (30°C) which we almost never have around here. In short, Tony's warm up parameters come very close for a car that is relatively standard.
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before: '69 Porsche 911T bahama yellow now: 1981 911 SC Targa winered |
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No, I'm talking about the Gamma Enrichment gauge on the main page of gauges. I only even noticed because it turns full red if it's above 150. Like I said, it doesn't stay there long.
Anyway, thanks for the other explanations. Starting to make sense. FWIW, the engine does run *great* once started and warmed up just a few seconds. Pulls strong, no stumbles, seems like a Porsche should (I owned a 3.2L car for a while, too). It's really just been the warm start that was a bugger (and then cold start once I started messing with things). --Donnie |
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Location: Tennessee
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After many weeks of delays I have my Bitz Racing kit installed. Car Started right up, and runs fair. I have downloaded Tunerstudio but not connected to car yet. I have looked for a guide on line to connect for the first time and store to my laptop the initial settings that Tony installed so I will always have a good point to return after I screw everything up.
Does anyone know of such a guide? I have looked on the Yahoo group forum but not had any luck. Please I need help. Thanks James
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James 1978 911 SC Targa |
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Do any/many of the folks who've installed Bitz kits take their completed cars to dyno shops to get the perfect mapping, or is that overkill? Thanks, John
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kinda slow
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Pretty sure I'm gonna go with the Bitz in the near future. Eventually, I want to go with ITBs, does the Bitz lend itself to doing this incrementally? I imagine I'd have to get it tuned, but everything should play nice together, correct? |
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If i recall correctly, it was only 150 quid, so not much money in the grand scheme. I tuned the rest of the table using autotune and manual corrections. Shamrock: yep, you could combine the bitz kit with ITB's afterwards. You keep using the megasquirt computer, but ditch the fuel rail stuff and CIS intake, and replace it with the ITB's. This is probably a route that i will take someday too.
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before: '69 Porsche 911T bahama yellow now: 1981 911 SC Targa winered |
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not that much to it really...with my brand new laptop at the time (2 yrs ago, win 10), i just plugged it in, started up the software, and it connected right away. I use the paid version. The base tune is always availbale to download from the yahoo group if you need to go back to it. You can also simply connect with the car (the software will read the tune from the car), and then save the tune on your pc. To tune to your car specifically, you need to have a good understanding of AFR targets and a very reliable wideband O2 controller (i'm changing my innovate to a AEM unit, innovate is pretty bad quality in my experience...changing sensors all the time and varying afr values...), OR you book some time on a dyno. I booked maybe 1-2 hours on a dyno to get WOT tuned correctly and worked my way down the ve table from there. I used some autotune as well, but ended up manually improving it plenty. (again, innovate is unreliable imo) I have a fully rebuilt stock 81 SC USA motor, with SSI's, and i have quite big differences with Tony's stock file. Biggest improvement is low down torque for me...CIS only comes to life after 4k rpm, mine pulls fantastic from 2k rpm. And of course the completely uneventful cold starts and reliable strong engine running the last 2 yrs in all weathers ![]()
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before: '69 Porsche 911T bahama yellow now: 1981 911 SC Targa winered |
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This is my Bitz-kit based EFI/ITB setup with Triumph throttlebodies from fellow pelican member Clay (closedcourse motorsport). By far the cheapest, easiest way to go ITB/EFI in my opinion, and a great introduction to the world of EFI. ![]() |
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Curious how you "ditch the fuel rails". The PMO ITB kit comes with fuel rails for example. Did you really mean to say that you need different fuel rails? Thanks.
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1982 911SC 1987 924S |
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![]() Quote:
The question I should have asked is "Are we talking about an alternative to fuel rails?" The word "ditch" may have thrown me. Other than DFI, I've never seen an alternative to fuel rails.
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1982 911SC 1987 924S |
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yep, i meant other brand fuel rails, or in the case of triumph ITB's: reuse the bitz rails apparantly
![]() i'm a dutch native speaker, sorry ![]()
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before: '69 Porsche 911T bahama yellow now: 1981 911 SC Targa winered |
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kinda slow
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Glad for the clarification.
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1982 911SC 1987 924S |
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"Todd" 98 Tahoe ,2007 Saturn Vue 86 930 black and stock, 80 930 blue tracdog 91 Spec Miata (yeah I race a chick car) "life"ll kill ya" Warren Zevon |
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