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Join Date: Oct 2003
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G50 Shift

Hi All.

My car has covered approx. 46k miles. Had it now for only about 3 months and put about 2.5k miles on it myself. I changed the gearbox oil when I first got it to Mobil 1.

My question regards the gearshift, particularly 2 to 3rd. I've always put it down to the ham-fisted pilot but now I'm not so sure. Basically quite often when I change from 2nd to 3rd the lever is not as free to move as other changes and I get a sort of hefty clunk when I change, like a release of energy in the shift mech. Noise is not from the gearbox.

I was working on the theory that my clutch/shift co-ordination was out and I was basically winding up the mech.

Anybody any thoughts?

I'm thinking of replacing the lever bushings as a matter of course, but anything else I should be thinking of?

Many thanks.
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2012 BMW F11 touring - the dog bus!
Old 01-10-2004, 08:07 AM
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Don't forget the shifter coupling, which is behind the seats on the shaft tunnel.
I would personally change all of the bushings and transmission fluid before going any further if the sound is not coming from the transmission.
When you remove the shifter shaft coupling mark/scribe where it was mounted before you reinstall the new then it will give you a starting point for you new adjustment.
If you do not mark how the old was adjusted then you will take forever to readjust to shift half correctly.
You can change just the bushings on the rear coupling but it is difficult to remove the old. I broke mine in the process and had to but the complete coupling.
Good luck
rgds Ben
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Old 01-10-2004, 08:29 AM
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Maybe you should bleed your clutch first
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911 SC turbo, 3.0L 930 motor, G50, 930 brakes, DTA EFI, 352 RWHP DynoDynamic dyno,
Old 01-10-2004, 02:37 PM
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Pull the shifter and replace the cup bushing and grease the cross shafts!

keith epperly 87 slant nose turbo look carrera cabriolet
Old 01-10-2004, 10:41 PM
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Hi Guys! Thanks for your replies - this board is always such a good source of help and info!

Dean - I'm intrigued by your comment. Can you tell me why you think I should bleed the clutch? Clutch was replaced by the PO about 9 months (and not very many miles) ago.

Thanks.
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2009 BMW E60 saloon - the work horse
2012 BMW F11 touring - the dog bus!
Old 01-11-2004, 12:36 AM
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Sometimes people forget that they should bleed the clutch as maintainance. If there is an air in the line, it could cause the clutch not to function correctly.
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911 SC turbo, 3.0L 930 motor, G50, 930 brakes, DTA EFI, 352 RWHP DynoDynamic dyno,
Old 01-11-2004, 05:45 AM
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Thanks Dean.

I assume that there is a separate mastercylinder for the clutch - i.e. separate to the brakes?

I'm planning on replacing discs, pads, and fitting some braided hoses in the next month or so. As part of this job I was planning to buy a Motive Products Power Bleeder (actually quite expensive here in the UK, butit'll earn its keep over a period of time), so I guess I'll do the clutch then.

ANy tips for bleeding the clutch?

Thanks.
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1988 Carrera 3.2 Sport Coupe - my mistress
2009 BMW E60 saloon - the work horse
2012 BMW F11 touring - the dog bus!
Old 01-11-2004, 07:23 AM
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Yes there is a separate master for the clutch. You should have no problem with the power bleeder. Wihout the power bleeder it is a pain to bleed sometimes.
Jack the back of the car up high and sometimes you have to pump the pedal while bleeding.
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Old 01-12-2004, 06:24 AM
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I think I know the clunk that you are describing. Sometimes this clunk can happen when you start to move the shift lever ever so slightly to the next gear before the clutch has actually disengaged the power output to the transmission. So Dean's advice of bleeding the clutch is a good place to start.

You'll need a long length of clear hose and a little bit of patience getting the bleeding set up properly. I like to put a box end 8mm (or is it 7mm? Can't remember) on the bleeder screw first, then stick the hose on there. Don't open the bleed screw too much or you'll have brake fluid running down the side of the trans. Bleed screw leaks at the threads quite easily if you loosen the screw too much. Finally, a pressure bleeder is a very smart move for bleeding the clutch system. Manual bleeding doesn't work well. I've done it and it just doesn't work well on the 911.

BTW, the shift coupler on the G50 tail shaft is different than the 915 trans. There's pretty much zero adjustment back there. The coupler is a pair of flanges riveted together with a rubber pad in between acting as a damper. No adjusting allowable with rivets.

Do what Keith said and check out the shifter assembly. There's a hard rubber/plastic ball cup in there that wears out.



It's #10 in the picture. #2 sometimes wears out too. There was an article in Excellence, maybe a year ago, that detailed how to service the G50 shifter. I'll try to scan it when I get a chance.
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Last edited by KTL; 01-12-2004 at 06:55 AM..
Old 01-12-2004, 06:52 AM
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Fantastic - thank you!

Kevin - yep, think you do know the noise I'm referring to. Good description!

Once again, thanks.
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1988 Carrera 3.2 Sport Coupe - my mistress
2009 BMW E60 saloon - the work horse
2012 BMW F11 touring - the dog bus!
Old 01-12-2004, 10:01 AM
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remove #12 nut and #7 shaft and watch you don't loose #4 & 8 o-rings. If the shafts are rusty polish with 1500 sand paper and reassemble with good grease. replace #2 and # 10 plastic bushings. They are available from your Porsche dealer or from Pelican parts I think.

Keith
Old 01-13-2004, 02:54 PM
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Opps don't forget to remove # 5 shaft and # 6 clip polish the # 5 shaft and reinstall.

Keith
Old 01-13-2004, 02:56 PM
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Found the Excellence article last night. It's from the April 2002 issue. Didn't have time to scan it though. I'll get it on here eventually!
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Old 01-14-2004, 06:37 AM
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Thanks All.

The Excellence article would be very welcome if you get a chance to scan!
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"Racing is Life. Anything that happens before, or after, is just waiting"

1988 Carrera 3.2 Sport Coupe - my mistress
2009 BMW E60 saloon - the work horse
2012 BMW F11 touring - the dog bus!
Old 01-14-2004, 09:11 AM
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One further question - is there a source for part numbers, other than my local dealer of course!
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"Racing is Life. Anything that happens before, or after, is just waiting"

1988 Carrera 3.2 Sport Coupe - my mistress
2009 BMW E60 saloon - the work horse
2012 BMW F11 touring - the dog bus!
Old 01-15-2004, 08:44 AM
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One more thing....
*Do* recall that there is an achilles heel in the G50 design that wasn't fixed by the factory until April '89 production...the infamous actuation shaft support bushing issue. Will make the unit progressively stiffer to operate until it can't anymore.
Look at your receipts and if the clutch was replaced...this fix ( either with factory parts or aftermarket) should be shown too...or it will rear it's ugly head in -time.
---Wil Ferch
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Old 01-15-2004, 09:41 AM
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Hi Will

Thanks for the heads up. Cuitch was done at an independent - no record of any update.

Can you tell me me more - or point me in the direction of more info?

Many thanks.
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"Racing is Life. Anything that happens before, or after, is just waiting"

1988 Carrera 3.2 Sport Coupe - my mistress
2009 BMW E60 saloon - the work horse
2012 BMW F11 touring - the dog bus!
Old 01-15-2004, 09:48 AM
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No comment just marking so I can take a look at the scanned Excellence article...gotta do the bushings too!
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Old 01-15-2004, 10:03 AM
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Guess i'm really on the hook to get that article scanned.............. I'll get it tonight!

Here's more topics in which i've been involved regarding info. on the G50 issue:

Separation of Engine and G50 Transmission

Clutch release bearing - how does it work?

does an 89 930 need the G50 update?

This G50 stuff has been covered a few times before, so a search with any combination of the terms "G50, shaft, cross shaft, update, clutch, etc." should reveal some of the previous topics.
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Old 01-15-2004, 11:51 AM
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Finally.............

Article from April 2002









Anybody wants/needs full size images, let me know & i'll email them to you.

ktlspider"at"yahoo.com
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Last edited by KTL; 02-04-2004 at 01:23 PM..
Old 01-16-2004, 10:56 AM
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