Optimoly HT antiseize -- source?

[Jack Olsen]

I made an impulse purchase of a $99 cordless impact wrench today, and now am concerned that it could conceivably snap one of my lug studs, since I've always fitted the steel lug nuts dry.

Optimoly HT is (I think) the Porsche-approved antiseize, but I have no idea of a vendor that sells it, online or otherwise.

Does anyone know of a source?

[RickM]

I'd think Stoddart or another Porsche parts counter. Also from BMW: Optimoly High temperature part# 18 21 9 062 599 Never-seize

A suggested replacement is: Honda pro Moly 60 Paste (from cycle dealerships)
• 60% Moly grease formula.
• Contents are solid and will not separate at room temperature.
• Recommended for bearings, gears and other high-pressure/high-temperature applications.
• Use where Moly 45 is suggested.


OR

Wurth SIG-3000


Pelican offers:

NR-OPTIMOLY PASTE
- This is a special-order, non-returnable, part
(availability and shipping charges may vary).
OEM-00004300400 $25.79

OE Lubromoly CV Joint Grease
LM-2004 $3.80




Perhaps LubeMaster will chime in.

[derek murray]

Motobins is an online UK company specializing in parts for BMW motorcycles. They carry Optimol Optimoly Anti-Sieze... whether it is the right one I don't know. Good luck in your search.

http://www.motobins.co.uk

[Quicksilver]

The Optimoly HT is the recommended lube for the G50 release fork and other extreme temperature applications but it is complete overkill for lug nuts. Any antiseize is more then enough for this as it isn't a bearing surface.

[RickM]

Ok...some more research. There was thread here in the past. Porsche dealers (Sunset and Stoddart are mentioned) should carry.... Optimoly HT is part # 000 043 004 00 (this is the Pelican Special order product I listed above).
Be careful there's also an Optimoly TA.

Apparently Bruce Andersen states that there are many other good anti-siezes but only the HT has been tested to not alter torques.


Here's the thread: Opimoly- where to get?

[911pcars]

Maybe Optimolly has the same effect on tightening threaded fasteners as oil, but same as dry? I doubt it, especially if it's a lube.

Jack. I wouldn't knock yourself out looking for Porsche-correct antiseize. Pep Boys or any auto or industrial parts house should have the equivalent (Snap-On, Permatex, etc.).

Sherwood

[ChrisBennet]

Optimoly HT appears to be just a very sticky copper antisieze. I use it on motors where Porsche specs it but it's overkill for wheel lug nuts I think. Any good antisieze should do for those.

I haven't tried it yet but I bet that the "dry" antisieze that comes in crayon form would be great for lug nuts.

-Chris

[RoninLB]

Originally posted by Quicksilver
The Optimoly HT is the recommended lube for the G50 release fork and other extreme temperature applications but it is complete overkill for lug nuts. Any antiseize is more then enough for this as it isn't a bearing surface.

JW posted 000 043 024 00 for tranny/clutch high temp&psi applications.

and ditto on wheel nuts.. any car parts store should have the silver. The pain is trying to find nickel anti-seize.

[911pcars]

"The pain is trying to find nickel anti-seize."

The larger industrial supply houses should carry the whole gamut of AS lubes (McMaster, Grainger, etc.). I had to double check I didn't type an extra S in the above acronym.

Sherwood

[mudman]

always at hand in the Bassett Garage...
Permatex 133K Advanced formula
good for up to 1600f
lists engine head bolts and exhaust as uses on back of container.
-Jeremy

[randywebb]

"complete overkill for lug nuts"
- Porsche did not think so. They put out a TSB that says to use it.

I had the same thought as Sherwood - how can it do that? But that is what BA says in his article - and it is based on the factory TSB and some other factory sources. So...

Obviously it isn't going to kill you to use a different antisieze.

[911pcars]

"Porsche did not think so. They put out a TSB that says to use it."

Use "it" versus what? I can understand some folks not using anything and thus the TSB.

Manufacturers all have "approved" brands (e.g., gasket sealers, oil, filters, etc.). It could mean no other brand works or has been approved. However, this doesn't necessarily mean another brand won't work. So, should you then use Mobil 1 or whatever the current Porsche-approved lube oil is? Does that also apply to 30 year old cars? If not, should Optimoly as well? I'd have to see the TSB and read what it says about lug nuts.

Sherwood

[TerryH]

Kopr-Kote is good for 1800 degrees or so. There's also some nickel impregnated stuff good to 2600.

[randywebb]

it = HT (and one other by Optimolly)

- post the TSB if you get a true copy

I think the BA article was in Exl. or maybe Pano. He relates it to the torque characteristics.

[patkeefe]

Jack:
Are you saying you put your lug nuts on with an imact wrench? I'd recommend using a torque wrench, if that's the case, and use any readily available anti-seize compound. I have always used anti-seize on my lug bolts, and have had zero trouble with them.

A local parts store near me sells Lubromoly and Optimoly. I use the gear oil in my trans. The product labels are all written in German, so I don't know what's in the stuff. Fortunately, the product numbers are in English.

Pat

[RoninLB]

Originally posted by 911pcars
"The pain is trying to find nickel anti-seize."

The larger industrial supply houses should carry the whole gamut of AS lubes (McMaster, Grainger, etc.).

thx for the reply

when I was checking around at the usual suspects I had a prob finding a single can. I also wanted the Graphite 50 anti-seize for spark plugs. I eventually got someone to open a box of each and they apologized for charging me list. They were Loctite prod.

and fwiw. I bought all new nuts at 100k mi figuring the alloy nuts were beat. No hard info on my mental prob.

[Cory M]

I use Locktite #77164 Nickel Anti-Seize, but I get it free at work, its good up to 2000F (I know it's overkill but if it's good enough for jet engines it should be good enough for my lugnuts). Note that it can make a mess and will stain your clothes. I don't know what it costs but I'm sure any place that sells Locktite can get it. I have also used another grade of anti-seize from Locktite that is bright silver in color and worked fine. It is important to mention that torque values are calculated under the assumption that the threads are lubricated.

[Jack Olsen]

Well, I ordered the PCNA part through our host. I don't expect I'll pay $25 for something like that again in my lifetime, but I'll incorporate the cost into the cheap tool.

I'll only use the impact wrench for removing the nuts. For putting them on, I'll continue to use a torque-adjustable cordless drill followed by a torque wrench. The new toy will just save me having to break them each loose by hand. Plus, I can use it for less-sensitive jobs.

[Wayne 962]

I don't recommend using anti-seize on your wheel nuts. First of all, if you use the anti-seize, then that will change the torque value when you tighten them, and you may accidentally put them on loose. I have not seen the factory technical bulletin, but if you have the number, I have a bookshelf of about 2500 of them. Lug nuts are just one thing I don't want to mess around with...

-Wayne

[Cory M]

Every design engineering book and bolted joint guide that I have read states that the formulas for calculating torque values assumes that the threads are lubricated. I don't see how antisieze would cause you to put lugnuts on too loose, I think there is a greater risk that the nuts will be put on loose without antisieze because the friction in the threads could cause binding and prevent the nuts from reaching the true torque value that corresponds to the designed clamp load and stud stretch. We are talking about nuts and studs that have been used probably hundreds of times and in all likelyhood the threads are worn or galled beyond the original specs.