3.4 Progress

[randywebb]

I'm a fan of putting the red on the inside...

From the outside it's just a car with neutral gray toned paint -- until you push down on the pedal. When you stop the surprised people catch up & ask to see the engine -- that's when they see all the red.

[JeremyD]

That's the idea Randy - and yes, Bay side.

Kevin - Sorry, I will give you props on the custom airbox lid - specially engineered. Souk, I'll get a dyno done as soon as I get some miles on her - how many? Wayne's book says 500 for valve adjust... But I have read 1,000 before Dyno. Any comments?

[JeremyD]

BTW - the house across the street is being built after Hurricane Francis took out their seawall and shoved sea water 16 feet under their house eroding their foundation. That was a year ago...

[JeremyD]

Originally posted by KTL
Your car is gonna crash. Your rear wheels/tires are on backwards........... .

Doh - I can build an engine - but can't mount a pair of tires...

2nd drive tonight a little longer. Everything is pretty smooth - still a little valve noise - but nothing major. I do notice that it runs around 10 degrees warmer than normal - again nothing out of the norm - I guess when parts really start meshing that will probably come down.

Just a few observations while they are fresh in my mind.

#1 - It is much easier to get the clutch and starter connected/disconnected if you drop the engine a few inches. Ok - a ton easier.

#2 Write down the torque values for each section you plan on tackling before you get into it.

#3 Leverage is your friend when working on anything that's older than an MTV DJ.... Probably one of my best tools was my 19" x 1/2 cheater bar. You can't argue with physics.

#4 When you are tired and having trouble walk away. I did most of this rebuild when the kids were asleep. I can't tell you how many things I came back into fresh that I came back to with a ahhh that's how it goes together.

#5 2 gallons of diesel fuel in a cement mixing tub makes an excellent parts cleaner - soak overnight - a little scrubbng and wow - clean part

#6 Every once in awhile step back and appreciate how things are connected and how they relate to each other.

#7 If i did it again, I think I would probably buy a used set of heads and maybe cylinders. I think it would go back together much easier if you could turn around and start assembling immediately. Also your timeline is not at the mercy of others.

#8 If you do the above - your wife/significant other will have less opportunity to complain about engine parts and car taking up and smelling up the garage.

#9 Don't skimp on the flywheel bolt. Torq 55 is not the same (half as many teeth) as the Porsche tool.

#10 Buy extra Loctite 574 - not something you want to run out of as not everywhere carries it

#11 Check your parts when they come in. I left some boxes of parts closed up - when I went to install them - found out I had been sent the wrong parts or the wrong version of parts - pretty frustruating.

That's all for now... KTL - I'll get those wheels switched around...

[ChrisBennet]

Way to go Jeremy!
About the thermostat: I'll repeat what other have said because some people still don't "get it".
The oil pipes do not seal on the threads, in fact oil doesn't even touch them. The oil lines seal on the inside edge of the thermostat.
-Chris

[Jeff Alton]

Oil does touch them........... when the flair fitting is leaking!

Sorry Chris, couldn't resist!

Cheers,

[KTL]

Sorry to pick on you Jeremy. I'm just jealous.

While you are out & about enjoying your new pumped up powerplant, i'm wrenching on a freakin' Pontiac Sunfire clutch job.

You suck.

Every one of your tips are great advice. You'd make a good teacher. Your boy will learn well from Pops about car wrenching.

I agree with #7 too. Good idea to have those parts fresh and ready to go, to avoid the downtime that occurs from pulling the existing parts off the motor and waiting to reassemble while they're serviced.

[rex140@hotmail.]

Good Info , thanks

[Jeff Alton]

I totally agree with both of you, so much so that I have a spare set of heads here and I already have my cylinders bored and my pistons on the shelf along with the cams and spare refinished rockers...

Jeff

[JeremyD]

Longest drive today - 29 miles and drove the car to the office. Ran well -

A few more observations. The torque of the 3.4 is similiar to a 3.2 Carrera down low. Below 3,000 rpm's and it acts VERY similiar. Probably due to the big 964 headers. Above 4,000 and watch out! The exhaust changes from a growl to a snarl and the tach takes a whole different cadence around the dial. You can feel the push back in your seat - much more like my old 964... This is going to be fun!

[911-32]

Wait until its run in and you check the cam timing, then you will feel it rip round the last 2,000rpm and slam into the redline. The silver lining to my valve seal black cloud was that the engine was torn down a second time and everything including cam timing was rechecked. It now runs soooo much better. I am redlining at 6850 for now with the 993SS cams and changing up at redline drops you right into the thick of the torque curve. This is where you feel the difference most dramatically IMHO. I feel a sensible redline for the way my engine is built - basically like yours but euro 3.2 and SSIs - would be 7000-7200rpm. What is your redline?

[JeremyD]

I am thinking the same. 7200 - should be plenty of room for error.

[Purkinjefibre]

Hi Jeremy, Nice build. I have a couple of Q's. Why did you choice supertech? also i would like to get my carrera intake, anodized rather than Pcoating, any ideas where?
Best wishes
Brett

[JeremyD]

Well - #1 Supertech is guaranteed for life - #2 Supertech is all inclusive - no buying everything seperate. #3 Supertech has great corrision resistence (I live on the water) #4 Henry Schmidt - of Supertech knows his stuff. I've never heard of anybody anodizing intakes - fuel rails yes (like Ralph's beautiful engine), intakes ??

[drums]

Nice going! I did a 3.6 conversion and after reading this thread, I almost feel I should have rebuilt my 3.2.
I must hand it to you, you took it by the throttle and did a great job!
Kudos!
Drums

[911teo]

Wow... I just read this thread in one go!

Fantastic job. Your 911 must be the sweetest Cab I have ever seen. And now it's got that beast in the back.

U must be very proud of yourself!

Congratulations!!!

[JeremyD]

Thanks Matteo, I have been keeping up with your car too - excellent job.

[911teo]

No seriously.. Putting it together yourself must feel very special!

Respect!!!!

[JeremyD]

Thanks Theo - It is actually a little stressful too. I'm a little bit of a perfectionist - and I have a little tiny oil leak - which doesn't make me happy - also = every sound I hear - I'm like - what's that... This weekend I had the car jacked up on jackstands with the motor running - listening to it... sick

I just realized I don't have a before and after pic for the engine... Here's before...


and after - the heater backdate really cleans up the 3.2 engines...

[JeremyD]

Some of you know my dilemma by now - I was hoping to have some dynos run by now.

Thought I would update this thread - in case anybody is considering the same thing.

Problem is that I was experiencing an oil leak. Not extensive, a couple drips after driving - still ran strong and hard, got the muffler situation taken care of with a Dynomax - put 500 miles on in between buying a new house, doing some remodeling on two houses, etc.

At 500 miles - I made a deal with my wife, that if I could adjust the valves and époque to get rid of the leak, I would, and if it was more than that, then I promised that I would not drop the engine again, that I would take it to Joe at Germantech to fix - even with a blow to my ego.

So, after draining the oil - and not being able to figure where the leak was coming from, I resigned myself to the fact that it MUST be the cam tower that I had to retorque to get the cam to turn easily - and that I it would need something more extensive than a retorque remedy.

Well, good thing that I did.

The good news is that the oil leak was not from the cam tower, In fact, the oil leak(s) were not from anything that I had buggered up (First thing I asked Joe after they had torn my engine down was, OK what did I F ____k up??)

Two issues with my engine - were two things that I really didn't have the means to check out. One was the flame rings were not installed correctly - I was getting some head sealing issues. The good part about that is that the company that did it immediately asked me to send in my cylinders and heads so they could analyze the problem and "make it right".

The other issue is a little more serious - the cylinders I bought - were out of spec. Even though they had been replated and heat film coated (and supposedly "ready to go), the measurements were outside specs, according to their current measurement from .066 to .078 clearance over 98mm - they were supposed to be 98mm +- .040 (and actually they were built for a turbo motor, so they should have been 98mm +- .030 or less).

So, I was getting blowby - which pressurized the case, which caused oil to squeeze out of every miniscule orifice possible. No wonder I couldn't track down the leak - I had lots of small leaks.

This is what a cylinder looks like that's not sealing properly