How long does it take to remove a broken cylinder / head stud? - Page 2

08-12-2005, 06:00 AM

Quote:

Chase the stud with a die to make sure the threads are clean - otherwise the new one can be a real b!tch to get in to the proper depth.

Amen to what Jeremy said. I didn't clean the threads when I did my rebuild with Raceware studs. Took twice the time and effort.

08-12-2005, 06:01 AM

twice the time and effort.

Quote:

Chase the stud with a die to make sure the threads are clean - otherwise the new one can be a real b!tch to get in to the proper depth.

Amen to what Jeremy said. I didn't clean the threads when I did my rebuild with Raceware studs. Took

ChrisBennet · ChrisBennet's Garage

I think you guy meant to say "chase the stud hole with a tap".
-Chris

JeremyD · JeremyD's Garage

you are right Chris - Blond moment

1972_911T · 10-21-2005, 10:26 AM

Half way through my rebuild I have now seen the light and decided to take peoples advice and change the original delivers, I just wish I had listened earlier when the case was seperated, anyway I stumbled upon this thread about stud removal which gives me most of the info I hope I will need to get these buggers out what I want to know is now I have my case re sealed will heating the head studs/case damage my through bolt hole seals?

Steve

1972_911T · 10-21-2005, 12:53 PM

I think I got lucky, got all 12 studs out within an hour with no heat, is this normall or were the germans been tight on locktite when my engine was built? Im glad I didnt have any broken ones though I bet they are a B***h.

ChrisBennet · ChrisBennet's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by 1972_911T
I think I got lucky, got all 12 studs out within an hour with no heat, is this normall or were the germans been tight on locktite when my engine was built? Im glad I didnt have any broken ones though I bet they are a B***h.

Did the theads come out with the studs?

Did the case have inserts in it from a previous rebuild perhaps?
(I'm assuming you have a 1972 motor, otherwise disregard this if your motor is not a 2.7 or earlier motor.)
-Chris

1972_911T · 10-21-2005, 01:20 PM

No Chris my engine is now 3.2 just having a overhaul ready for transplant into my 72, the 2.4 found itself a new home in a VW camper van.

ChrisBennet · ChrisBennet's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by 1972_911T
No Chris my engine is now 3.2 just having a overhaul ready for transplant into my 72, the 2.4 found itself a new home in a VW camper van.

Oh good! Had me worried!
-Chris

Jeff Alton · 02-18-2006, 10:55 PM

Thought I would bump this old thread. It has lots of good advice in it.

Well tonight I finally tore my 3.2 down for a 3.4 conversion. (progress reports will be in the engine building forum) To make a long story short, my bragging about how lucky I have been removing studs finally bit me in the A$$! I had the first 17 out in my usual time, the bottom 12 not needing any heat at all! Then I found 7 stuborn top steel ones. Used my MAPP torch and got 6 out without much trouble and then the 7th (and last) one broke off just above the case! (insert some seriously bad language here

) Crap! Now I am not sure WTF to do! Send it out to the shop or make a last attempt to get it out, or drill it out with the drill press!

I am too tired to even go back to the garage to look how much is really sticking out, but I will look at it tomorrow.....

Cheers

ChrisBennet · ChrisBennet's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by catca
Thought I would bump this old thread. It has lots of good advice in it.

Well tonight I finally tore my 3.2 down for a 3.4 conversion. (progress reports will be in the engine building forum) To make a long story short, my bragging about how lucky I have been removing studs finally bit me in the A$$! I had the first 17 out in my usual time, the bottom 12 not needing any heat at all! Then I found 7 stuborn top steel ones. Used my MAPP torch and got 6 out without much trouble and then the 7th (and last) one broke off just above the case! (insert some seriously bad language here ) Crap! Now I am not sure WTF to do! Send it out to the shop or make a last attempt to get it out, or drill it out with the drill press!

I am too tired to even go back to the garage to look how much is really sticking out, but I will look at it tomorrow.....

Cheers

I vote for making it someone else's problem:

When you have the machinist clean up ("deck") the spigot sealing surface have him remove the broken head stud. He's got it bolted down in the mill already anyway.
-Chris

crashmy911 · 02-19-2006, 04:57 AM

When I did mine I used a cam like stud remover from sears. Took maybe an hour to get all but one out. That one broke. Picked up the case and threw it in the front seat of my jeep and drove to local machine shop where they removed it and put in a case saver. Boy that was lot of fun!!!! Machine shop thought I was nuts with the case in hand opening front door.

Jadams1 · Jadams1's Garage

I removed all 12 lower head studs on my SC engine using an oxy acetylene torch and vise grips. It took around 3-4 minutes of heating to melt the loctite. Once the studs start turing, remove the heat don't stop turning. They all came out easily without thread damage. Apply heat in the area shown.

jhelgesen · 02-19-2006, 07:26 AM

This is what you get to do when they break off 1/8" from the case. Think I had to do 5 like this.....

Slider79SC · Slider79SC's Garage

Just did a neat trick on Friday to remove 5 stubborn studs and one broken one. Weld a nut on the studs, heat the case near the stud a little bit with a propane torch and they come right out with an air wrench.

Easy, only took 20 minutes.

JeremyD · JeremyD's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by catca
Thought I would bump this old thread. It has lots of good advice in it.

Well tonight I finally tore my 3.2 down for a 3.4 conversion. (progress reports will be in the engine building forum) To make a long story short, my bragging about how lucky I have been removing studs finally bit me in the A$$! I had the first 17 out in my usual time, the bottom 12 not needing any heat at all! Then I found 7 stuborn top steel ones. Used my MAPP torch and got 6 out without much trouble and then the 7th (and last) one broke off just above the case! (insert some seriously bad language here ) Crap! Now I am not sure WTF to do! Send it out to the shop or make a last attempt to get it out, or drill it out with the drill press!

I am too tired to even go back to the garage to look how much is really sticking out, but I will look at it tomorrow.....

Cheers

Steel ones gave me anguish too - My plan of action was to take to a machine shop if I broke one...

aircooledsonly · 02-19-2006, 08:48 AM

Get a MIG welder, weld nut to stud, yes you can weld devilar, then attack while hot with large breaker bar/socket. only takes 5 min per stud and your not heating the case per Wayne's suggestion.

Wil Ferch · 02-19-2006, 05:42 PM

Why would you try to get the steel upper ones out?... they were good, weren't they?

Wil

Jeff Alton · 02-19-2006, 06:14 PM

I took them out because I am using ARP ones. I welded a nut on this morning, very little material to showing to actually weld to, and promptly broke it off! I am going to let someone who does this for a living fix it for me (my machinist

)

I heated in all of the right places when I did this using my MAPP torch. NOT the first studs I have removed........ But, the first one that I have broken!
Cheers

john walker's workshop · 02-19-2006, 07:51 PM

welding a nut to dilivar usually doesn't work. occasionally at best. your best shot is to use big straight jaw visegrips on the stub after clearing away all the other studs, top and bottom, so you can turn the visegrips in a circle as much as possible without having to reclamp them any more than necessary, which can chew up the stub. heat with oxy/acet as usual.