turn signal switch quick fix pictures

[kidrock]

same problem....it's all related to the stalk.

[jlynch1960]

Mr. Schafer -

Kidrock is right. I can't explain how it worked because the problem is different from what other people had going on in this thread, but I simply bent back the middle bar with some needle nose pliers and the high beams were back.

As a side note, I had a devil of a time getting my steering wheel removed. It would move about a quarter inch and then feel like it was banging into something. Chased down a number of threads here and finally found a guy who had the same problem. Advice was to use a wheel puller, which I was able to improvise with an old flaring tool and a couple of different length sockets. Came right off.

Good luck - hope this fix works for you too.

[fxeditor]

Isn't it amazing how a 5 year old post can still help people (like me) today! I just finished the fix and wanted to thank everyone for their knowledge, not to mention the pictures and illustrations!

Michael

[DRACO A5OG]

Originally Posted by fxeditor

Isn't it amazing how a 5 year old post can still help people (like me) today! I just finished the fix and wanted to thank everyone for their knowledge, not to mention the pictures and illustrations!

Michael

+1, just moded the High Beam Switch.

On my year, I had no choice but to remove the 930 Steering Wheel.

Upon opening her up I also found the switch was very loose to the touch, bottom screw was half way off.

Removed the switch and clean with electronic's cleaner spray, dropped some GM Lube additive at all moving parts and M3 Silicon Paste on the wind shield wiper switch position post. Maybe over kill but everything moves nice and smooth

While I was in there, I had a slight scratching noise when turning the steering wheel. I read posts that it was the copper switch rubbing against the steering wheel circular contact. It was definitely dirty and the copper arm was pretty worn in. I gently bent up the copper switch to make a more firm contact and placed M3 Silicon Paste at the contact and circular contact on the Steering Hub.

36lb Torque later I tested the lights, signals and then the horn, but it did not activate, I guess I put too much paste but after I turned the wheel it worked just fine. Must just needed to spread out the paste.

Thanks again Won for re-post and others for the guidance

This was very satisfying fix!

BTW, anyone know where I can get a plastic retaining spacer and screw for the 930 Steering wheel. P/O when he installed the wheel must have lost one and placed a plastic washer and improper screw.

[Hampton]

Great post...just fixed mine this morning!

[DRACO A5OG]

I was already to place a Voodoo spell on Won and order a new switch. $132

But a Previous poster mention a 4th Spring. I was WTF?

OK, after fixing my ghost flash when I used my turn signal, it fixed it so well my flash stopped working after about a month. It worked when tested prior to assemble but past couple of months I have not been able to flash on coming traffic. I guess that is a blessing no road rage from potential hot heads

Any who, I opened her up again and found the 4th and wouldn't you know it 5th spring:

If you look closely between the metal actuator and copper 3rd spring (Hi-Beam) you can see #4 spring as previous poster mentioned. If you un-do the zip tie you will see #5, These are your FLASHER Hi-Beam springs.

#4, in between and just back of #3 and Actuator


#5 just to the right of the Lo-Beam #1 Spring


I bent in the #5 and used emory cloth in between #4 & #5. I used a small phillips to pull down #4 to get the emory cloth in there. Pulled the actuator arm to get better friction with the emory cloth. After a few more adjustments #5 and pulling the actuator, Much SUCCESS!

Won and posters THANK YOU!

Jim

[Chris Lovell]

Folks,
This is how I found my high-low headlight switch today. Given it is one dirty mess (which I will clean), can you help explain how the contact should rest in the low-beam and high-beam positions. I think the low beam, which is absolutely not touching the top contact (A) at any point, should be touching contacts A and B when the stock is toward the firewall (front) which is low beam. Then, when the stock is in the high-beam position (toward rear), contacts B and C should be touching. Should A and B and C all be touching when the high-beams are on? And lastly, it looks like spacer D has melted, disintegrated or otherwise failed (I know it is hard to tell with all the debris). Any thoughts on this?
Thanks,
Chris

[DRACO A5OG]

As shown on my pic above: A & B should be touching at rest.

When hi beam is on only B & C, when hi is pulled A, B & C are in contact.

So, in your pic, I would bend up B to make contact with A, while making sure C is spaced away at the same time.

Clean up D and the contact to the left down that square area, that is the 5th contact, most will miss, I did.

Do you have a Head Light Relay? If not you may want to consider it, that is most likely why D melted.

Jim

[Chris Lovell]

Thanks Jim. Seriously helpful.
I am thinking B is held in contact with A by a piece of plastic on the housing to the right in the picture. (about where the B is) Otherwise the B contact just drops back against C. I am thinking I will bore a tiny hole through the housing, run a plastic pin (like a toothpick) through which will pin A to B. As I am thinking about this, if A and B are together all the time, why is there a contact there at all? Do A and B ever separate? And I better get the resister. I agree this is likely the source of my problems.
Thanks,
CL

[DRACO A5OG]

edit: sorry, I did Doh!

When Hi is pushed ON A moves away from B. Only when you pull to flash Hi's is A,B, C in contact. So you do not want bend B to be in contact with A at all times. So, bend only C to move away from B.

Try to match my pic. Don't forget about the #5 contact, it will need to be cleaned.

If you can take a video of the movement of Hi's ON and Flash.

[Chris Lovell]

Thanks. I think I do want A and B to be in contact for low beams to work. And that is all the time. That sound right?
CL

[DRACO A5OG]

That would mean both Hi & Lo's will be on if you push the stick forward. The system is designed to disengage A (lo) when you prompt this postion.

That is alot of load on the stock.

Only time All three are in contact is on FLASH.

Remember B is the HOT Contact. Put the stalk in all 3 positions (rest, flash, Hi ON) so you can visualize how it functions. Sorry to be a broken record but also check #5. When this malfunctions the Hi's do not work.

[Chris Lovell]

Jim, not surprisingly, you have it right. ("B" means both upper and lower contacts on the center "hot" spring) So, A and B contact for low beams. B and C contact for highs. Right now, A and B are not remotely close to each other. And B and C are contacting even in the low beam position. Do you have any idea what moves B away from A to allow only B and C to contact for high beams? Or should there be something pushing B against A in the low beam position. And this push is released when in high beam position. I could bend the spring to make A and B meet, but then what separates B from A when B and C contact for high beams?

[nesslar]

See page 1 of this thread, pictures 2, 3, and 4. Simple. They get out of whack from pushing/pulling too hard. Unless they fry........

[Chris Lovell]

Thanks. I either have fry or age degradation. There is a plastic piece on the end of the bottom bar (clearly seen in picture #1) which pushes the center spring bar and contact B against contact A in the low beam position. For high beam, the center spring bar simply returns to its normal position with contact B touching contact C. From my picture, this plastic piece is simply gone. Probably melted. I'm thinking about how to McIver a new one, but for now, I put a little chunk of the plastic wire tie between B and C which forced A and B together. So at least I have low beams until I get this replaced or fixed.
Thanks all.
C

[DRACO A5OG]

CL,

If you look at my pic, you will see B is pretty parallel to the housing in white. Tweek it to match it.



C ,tweek that down as well to move it away from B

E, it may be the angle, but it also seems to be bent, straighten that out as well.

The black plastic piece, which is the part that moves A & C may be salvaged, post a pic after cleaning it, others have built that part up with some lego if I recall & JB weld.

Jim

[Chris Lovell]

I won't give up yet. It is the fabrication of the black "lift" that I need to do. I'll try it now.
Thanks.
CL

[DRACO A5OG]

Just make sure you test before putting everything back. Ask me how I know . Well, twice maybe but I did it 3 times that is when I discovered the 5th contact. Due to corrosion it would not give me Hi's on demand. :P Now all good, with relays

Post your fix CL

[Chris Lovell]

I "lego-ed" my switch today as had been done by others. My lego was actually the side of a yellow monopoly game hotel. Anyway, you can see the piece in place. It's purpose is to slide past spring and contact C and push B against A for low beam operation. When in high beam position, B settles back naturally against contact C (based on plastic "lift" D dropping). In this picture, the contacts are in the highbeam position.
Anyway, I'll test this shortly. Hopefully works...
CL

[Chris Lovell]

BTW, the plastic retrofit is about 7/16" tall x 3/16" wide, and 1/8" thick. Pretty tiny. I crafted it with nail file. Go figure...
CL