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Man you fellas are dedicated and focused. I couldn't get any work done with a girl running around the shop not wearing pants.
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Electrical system (just cut the red):
http://www.itsfun.nu/if3/if3_168.jpg Fuel system (in theory): http://www.itsfun.nu/if3/if3_169.jpg Instrument panel: http://www.itsfun.nu/if3/if3_170.jpg Refining the rear end: http://www.itsfun.nu/if3/if3_178.jpg Björn is still welding last pipes: http://www.itsfun.nu/if3/if3_171.jpg And his dog Laban is keeping the shop secure: http://www.itsfun.nu/if3/if3_180.jpg |
Cleaning up the lamps:
http://www.itsfun.nu/if3/if3_181.jpg Design details on oil-cooler: http://www.itsfun.nu/if3/if3_182.jpg Backman is installing indicator LED's in rear view mirror: http://www.itsfun.nu/if3/if3_183.jpg It works! http://www.itsfun.nu/if3/if3_187.jpg Fuel system taking shape: http://www.itsfun.nu/if3/if3_186.jpg Driveshaft installation to be. This deserves longer caption. Where should I start? Car always sheared CV's or shafts on drag-race starts. It was solved by making custom adapters for bigger CV's (from an excavator I believe) and thick spring-steel shafts. It worked well but CV bolts kept loosening. I think CV's unbolted at least 8 times. We traced the problem to fact that no rear seal was instaled behind CV's so bolt threads were greasy when tightened. No lock-washers were used either. Solution: degrease and wash the CV's completly. Buy new 12.9 M12 bolts. Wash stubs as well. Install halfshafts completly dry, use heavy duty two-component Loctite and Nordlock (TM) washers. Tighten to 125Nm. Fill CV's with grease by sticking a grease-gun under CV gaskets. That is everything that could be done short of welding god damned CV's to the stubs or drilling them for safety-wire. http://www.itsfun.nu/if3/if3_192.jpg Tokan is painting the front: http://www.itsfun.nu/if3/if3_198.jpg Checklists, checklists: http://www.itsfun.nu/if3/if3_201.jpg |
Goran, awesome project. Love the detailed photo's.
Keep them coming. Can't wait to see the finished product!! Ken |
Can you give me some more info on your guage situation? I am thinking of going Autometer and was going to custom CNC plasma cut a plate for them to fit in, but didn't know how the other was attached, or how to modify to accept my plate.
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Sorry for not updating for a while. We didn't make it to the show. There was just too much to be done. Unfortunately I cannot post full pictures of the car as it's going to be unveiled at next car show 7:th of may so I cannot spill the beans just yet. I can say that it looks quite good considering it's such a radical design ;)
On the positive side: Car has been started and driven briefly! Engine is buttoned up and purrs like a kitten! Throttle response was improved greatly thanx to new smaller generator that is driven by separate belt! Who needs stinking ITB's when you can remove 4kg of rotating mass in the middle of the fan :) It's much better bang for the buck when it comes to snappy throttle. There have been some oil-pressure problems. At first, there was no oil pressure as system was dry and pressure pump couldn't suck oil all the way trough. We had to briefly pressurize oil tank to get the oil trough hoses into the engine. After that we had steady 5 bar of oil pressure on cold freshly rebuilt engine, going down to 3 bar after oil warmed up. There were few leaking things but nothing too worrying. Engine has to be re-mapped as new intake runners are much longer than previous stubby stacks. It's going to be done on the street as engine dyno is prohibitely expensive right now. http://www.itsfun.nu/if3/if3_210.jpg Front brake cooling: http://www.itsfun.nu/if3/if3_208.jpg Details of flip-front: http://www.itsfun.nu/if3/if3_215.jpg http://www.itsfun.nu/if3/if3_214.jpg http://www.itsfun.nu/if3/if3_216.jpg http://www.itsfun.nu/if3/if3_217.jpg |
oh man the pics won't show..
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WOW - sweet! Good luck with the unveiling.
Doug |
argh..... we have to wait 'till May 7th?!?!?!?!
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How about some audio clips of the new motor?
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Goran,
You have to give us something man.. for the love of God and country! give us video and sound of the beast! The rear end onthat thing is SO damn crazy cool.. I am sure it's wicked! Is he going to take it back to the Ring and give it another go?? |
You're such a tease Goran! Can't wait to see more.
-Chris |
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Goran, you are worse that those girls these days with their skimmpy clothes and their pouty lips!
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Is that a nitrous pressure gauge?
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Quote:
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Wow, what tension!
I have wired a few cars now and have more than a healthy respect for electricity so I have to ask...is this cool...??? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1146147888.jpg I thought your brain melted when you touched both terminals at the same time? |
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Nope, you need at leastt 48V to even feel the tickling. 72V will rock your senses and 110V AC will definately make you dance. I've been hit by 230V AC few times and it's dangerous. 12V DC isn't. |
I thought it was the amps that got you tho...800 amps should keep you movin? I guess the pic is proof tho...that's a normal 12v fully charged battery?
I'm heading out to the garage now to do some testin'! |
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U [Volt] = I [Ampere] * R [Ohm]. Resistance trough your hands is >20kOhm, which means that current flowing trough you when you touch 12V terminals is around 0.6mA, and thus power is 0.0072W. You won't feel a thing. Raise the voltage and you'll be rocking & rolling. So: the lower the resistance the more current flows. Current x Voltage = Power. More power disipated in your body = the more you shake. Body resistance is quite constant so 12V won't do you much harm. |
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