Engine drop - should I do it?

[450knotOffice]

I am seriously considering dropping the engine next month.

Why? Well, because it's been leaking oil in about three different areas forever and the engine's an oily, ugly mess now. It also needs to have the timing chain tensioners replaced and the clutch looked at and maybe replaced.

So I figured I'd drop it and address these issues. While I'm at it I thought I'd clean the engine up and paint or powdercoat the fan and other hardware.

What do you guys think? Should I, or shouldn't I?

[yelcab1]

Do it. My engine is just dropped today, and is sitting in the garage waiting for a serious cleaning this week.

[72 four door]

Absolutely! Buy waynes book though if you have any problems post it! The info on this board is fantastic chain tensioners are easy to do just secure the chains and follow the directions. clutch is pretty straight forward too you will need a few tools. replace the flywheel seal while your in there. Good luck

[rcecale]

Drop it!

If you think you know your car now, just wait. You'll become even closer. Drop it!

I've actually been checking out ATV jacks because I'm thinking about dropping mine for some maintenance...not really sure just what, yet....just getting itchy to drop it again!

Randy

[coloradoporsche]

My first drop took 6 hours; the last two with a helper. A surprisingly straightforward project using Wayne's book.

[89turbocabmike]

Go for it Scott! You can count on me for help with the drop. I've got the atv jack, specially cut plywood, and any tool you might need. I've got Wayne's book I can drop by in case you want to study up ahead of time. And I don't drink too much beer

[JeremyD]

My first drop took 4 hours = and I did it twice - really pretty easy scott. I ended up putting it back in by myself - that was pretty easy too.

My only advise is to use a scissor jack from a SUV - it gets the rear end way up in the sky and makes it easy to shimmy the engine out from underneath. Also, don;t be afraid to drop an inch or two prior to removing the top starter bolt - makes it mucho easier.

[Dantilla]

My first drop took about five hours. Next one was half that.
Just one step at a time. Follow directions, and there it sits on your garage floor.

[YTNUKLR]

Do it! If you get in a bind let me know! Happy to help!

Best, Scott

[Wickd89]

If I am available, I will come on over and help you out.
I can at least hold the light and hand you a beer!!

[450knotOffice]

Awesome, guys! Mike, I may take you up on that help. Luis, you too.

My wife's telling me she wants me to paint the fan yellow - like a bumble bee (My car's black).

Alright. You helped me make up my mind. I'll do it. The Hangover run is next Sunday and I don't want to miss it for anything, so I'll begin the drop a day or two later.

I'm excited about this!

[Hugh R]

Not real hard, pulled mine today. Besides Waynes book There is an electrical plug connector behind the top of the engine that you want to pull as you lower it. Remove the trannie ground strap, its on the front right of the trannie, speedo wire is on the right of the trannie, almost missed it, two fuel lines on the left side of the engine on top one is 13 mm threaded, the other is a hose clamp fitting. Get a NEW 6mm allen head socket in the CV joints square, clean out the holes with a q-tip first. They can strip easily. I broke my rear engine mount strap on both sides trying to unloosen them. No preventative action that I could see, they were frozen $110 from pelican!! Once you disconnect the ball and socket connector from the accelerator rod at the bell housing, you don't need to disconnect the rod that goes up into the netherlands of the engine. Unbolting the sway bar brackets to the body helped worth the 2 minutes that it took. Pull the muffler and rear valance for extra clearance another 5 or 10 minutes.

[84porsche]

I can try to stop by in the evenings, at least to hold the flashlight when Luis isn't or I'll bring the digital camera to help document for all the fine Pelicans.

[Jim Smolka]

Yes, do the drop. Fixing those oil leaks is critical, especially those on top of the motor. Also, take a look at the top of the cooling fins to see if there is junk there.

[hoosierdaddy]

Scott , not to steal your thread but what jack does everyone recomend?

[Jim Smolka]

The PP jack sold here as well as the PP jack stands. The PP jack is very nice since it has a low profile, but a very high lift. This is great when one needs to raise the rear of the car high to roll the motor out of the engine bay

[9dreizig]

Dude, did you really expect a bunch of " no take it to the dealer" responses on this bulletin board ??? What you really need to do is find a few buddies that live close, offer to buy some beer and you'll have a dozen guys with wrenches in hand in your garage..

[JeremyD]

Since you had fun with your exhaust nuts - I would highly recommend you start hitting your two engine mounts and your two transmission mounts with PB Blaster everyday for the next week or so. Also go out an buy a large (19" or langer) cheater bar. Leverage is your friend for some of these connections that haven't been distrubed in 20 years.

Originally posted by hoosierdaddy
Scott , not to steal your thread but what jack does everyone recomend?

The Scissor jack from my Nissan Armada worked much better - and cheaper than any jack I had on hand...

[efhughes3]

No Problemo, I'm glad you're going to do it. Two things that WILL make your life simpler:

1. Get an ATV jack. They're cheap, and they make a great platform for supporting the motor.

2. This is a method suggested to me by a sage. Raise the ENTIRE car level on jackstands. Ultimately, the rear valance will need to clear the motor, but you don't need all of that height while disconnecting. Do all the disconnecting, and then drop the motor a few inches. THEN you slowly lower the front end. This raises the rear end by pivoting on the jacks under the t-bars. Lower the ATV jack to the ground and back the motor out. This will ultimately give you the clearance to pull the motor back, and you've been working with a level motor and chassis, and the motor wasn't ever 3 feet in the air!

The install is the reverse, and again, you don't need to lift the motor way up into the car, bring the car to the motor. Also, you're mating the motor up to a level chassis.

Try it, you'll like it.

[curlesw]

Originally posted by efhughes3
THEN you slowly lower the front end. This raises the rear end by pivoting on the jacks under the t-bars.

Ed, this seems like an interesting approach. One question, when lowering the front, do you use a single jack point or do each side at a time? Seems like it would have to be a single jack point, but where?

v/r
Wayne C.
83 SC