help removing G50 please - Page 2

jwetering · jwetering's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by Jim Smolka
Front the picture, looks like there may be a couple of oil leaks on the top side of the motor. Be sure to replace the oil pressure switch and the oil ring for the thermostat. Also in spect the oil breather hoses. 'While you are in there', not a bad idea to remove the plastic cover that directs are to the oil cooler, and then remove the oil cooler so that 3 O-Rings may be replaced

The oil leaks are actually the primary reason for the engine drop. The clutch replacement is the "while we're in there" part of the job. Good tip for the oil cooler though. I was actually wondering what the best strategy was. Thanks again everyone.

88911coupe · 12-05-2007, 11:09 AM

I'm stuck at this point myself but from what I can see on mine, there is no threaded hole to put a bolt into like I see here. Any ideas what I can do?

don911 · don911's Garage

IIRC you have to remove the bolt that holds the small tab on shaft. See the picture that Jeremy D posted on page 1. The red arrow is pointing to the bolt.

jevvy · 12-05-2007, 11:20 AM

have you removed the 1 or 2 bolts holding the little plate that covers it?

88911coupe · 12-05-2007, 11:56 AM

OK, I'm a dumbass...I did not realize there was a hard plastic cover OVER the opening for the threaded bolt. I've rigged up a 6mm bolt and some washers to hopefully draw it out but I've put a pretty good amount of pressure on it and it's not budging. I shot it with PB Blaster and will let it sit a while then give it another go. I can only get the PB Blaster on the side near the threaded side so it's not going to help on the "passenger" side.

88911coupe · 12-05-2007, 12:51 PM

New problem...sort of. I was turning the bolt, heard a snap/pop and assumed it had broken loose. No such luck, the darned bolted snapped off about halfway down. Fortunately, I managed to slowly back it out using a very small pair of needlenosed pliers...disaster avoided for now. What's to stop the next bolt from snapping as well? I'm 99% sure mine has the updgraded part since it was mentioned in the service records from the PO.

jwetering · jwetering's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by 88911coupe

New problem...sort of. I was turning the bolt, heard a snap/pop and assumed it had broken loose. No such luck, the darned bolted snapped off about halfway down. Fortunately, I managed to slowly back it out using a very small pair of needlenosed pliers...disaster avoided for now. What's to stop the next bolt from snapping as well? I'm 99% sure mine has the updgraded part since it was mentioned in the service records from the PO.

Holy thread revival!

My first thought is to get a stronger bolt, but if the pin is that firmly siezed in the hole, then you run the risk of breaking the ears off the trans case (IIRC, this has happened more than once)

Proceed with extreme caution, and soak the hell out of the parts you can get to with PB Blaster or similar!

88911coupe · 12-05-2007, 08:44 PM

Just to update...I messed up by not having a large enough washer. It was sliding off the shoulder and basically compressing against itself. Once I added a large enough washer to keep it on the shoulder it came out. It appears to have the needle bearing release lever but the reciepts from the PO show Cl Lever update kit AND needle bearings. Not sure that makes sense.

KTL · 12-06-2007, 06:33 AM

Heat is your friend in these instances also. The material differences between the steel shaft and alloy trans. case should work in your favor. Problem is there's a lot of metal mass which will act as a big heat sink.

It sounds to me like the previous wrencher used a new shaft with the old release fork. If you removed a plastic cap and there are needle bearing cups in the bellhousing bores? You've got the updated shaft assembly. The complete update assembly for this troublesome clutch actuation system is:

-Revised shaft with needle bearing cups in the trans. bellhousing, bellhousing drilled larger accordingly, rubber seals between shaft and bearing cups, plastic cap which covers shaft end, separate mounting tab to secure shaft in bore

-Revised release fork with beefier fingers and plastic pivot bushings instead of former needle bearings

-Revised release bearing with beefier ears and a smaller bore.

-Revised release bearing guide tube with smaller outside diameter

I'd ditch the factory shaft & fork update stuff and go with the Pelican/Weltmeister update kit. It gives you more reliable bronze bushings instead of needle bearings which need to be repacked with new on occasion.

PcarPhil · 09-02-2008, 01:25 PM

I've run into this same problem - stuck cross shaft. Has anyone come up with any new extraction methods?

Later this evening I'm going to try the bolt and socket method.

Thanks,

jwetering · jwetering's Garage

Wow the thread that keeps on giving. I originally posted the question 2.5 years ago!

Some penetrating oil, a long bolt, and a long socket is all you need. The aim is to *draw* it out, not yank it out.

Good luck with that.

PcarPhil · 09-02-2008, 04:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwetering

Wow the thread that keeps on giving. I originally posted the question 2.5 years ago!

Some penetrating oil, a long bolt, and a long socket is all you need. The aim is to *draw* it out, not yank it out.

Good luck with that.

That process worked like a champ. Thanks for the info!

Jim Smolka · 09-03-2008, 03:02 AM

During reassembly, look at manual to insure correct order of shaft parts

coxy · coxy's Garage

Interesting thread.

I have just droped my engine and the cross shaft came out very easily just using my fingers (is that wrong) How can i tell if mine has had the update?

jevvy · 11-06-2008, 01:51 AM

Hey Coxy

In the image below the updated shaft is the white one and the original one is yellow. Basically I think they moved the needle bearings from the fork area to the ends of the shaft and increased the size of the holes in the gearbox case:

Ned, NYNA11 · 11-06-2008, 05:19 AM

When I did mine I used the bushing style upgrade instead of the original needle bearing design and "Neverseez" as lube for the bushings.

I had the engine out a couple of years later and checked the cross shaft. It was able to pull it out with my fingers.

jwetering · jwetering's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by coxy

Interesting thread.

I have just droped my engine and the cross shaft came out very easily just using my fingers (is that wrong) How can i tell if mine has had the update?

That's very wrong. It's not supposed to be easy! We worked for several evenings getting that thing out and we're richer for teh experience.

Maybe try changing the coolant expansion tank in a 996.....if that doesn't make you cry then nothing will.

dv88carrera · 04-17-2010, 01:22 PM

The cross shaft in my 88 won't budge. Tried the slide hammer until I got to the point that I was getting concerned about breaking the ear off the trans case. Fortunately did not.

Backing it out with the second technique (socket and jack-screw) did not work, only presented me with another problem. My cross shaft had a tiny (6mm) internal tapped hole. Translation = using a slide hammer or any other means of pulling out a much larger diameter frozen shaft with a 6mm stud is simply asking for trouble. Yes, now I have a broken stud inside the cross shaft. I see some of the other posts showing a much larger treaded stud... larger than 6mm.. what am I missing??

Now I need to drill out the broken stud, only to be left w/the original problem. Any other tricks out there??

I'm considering drilling and tapping a larger dia hole to give me a little more pulling power, but this shaft looks hard. Not in a happy place right now...

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!