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		![]() Here's what the shortened gas tank looks like........... ![]() Looks like there's enough room for air to exit in front of the tank. Capacity is about 15 gals. Len  
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				coolant hoses
			 
			
			this is one of the easier tasks of the swap.the hoses are 1' and 1.25'  id and fit in the area where the oil lines to the front cooler fit.. tucks up nicely...one hose on either side of the vehicle.  the hoses have to pass under the front crossmember or through it. rh recommends drilling the aluminum crossmember and passing the hose through. this drilling removes most of the crossmember webbing. so i drilled and had welded into the crossmember the correct size tubing such that the rubber coolant hose is clamped on either side of the crossmember.  i also pass the radiator air underneath the car as i have a custom gas tank.  i would not duct it into the fenderwell areas and remember porsche did not intend for there to be heat ahead of the dash. unless your have dash sealed really well, lots of very hot air will find its way into the interior. i do think that passing the air out through the hood is best for many reasons. but, unless it is done well the aesthetics of the car will suffer. i am cooling  a dart all aluminum 434 cubic inch sbc roller motor developing almost 600 chp.  
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
			 
		
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	69 bronco..... 91 mustang ssp santa clara county sheriff's office ...2017 focus rs tuned on 93 400 chp  | 
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			Build vaccum lip underside of tub just before radiator hole - it is worth 15 to 20 degrees in cooling 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
			e p slick, can you elaborate? 
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	theamsoilguy@hotmail.com  | 
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			That shorter gas tank seems to be the way to go, so though Renegade Hybrids that would be: 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	
	$1,100 CUSTOM ALUMINUM RADIATOR AND DUAL FAN PACKAGE W/ ALL REQUIRED MOUNTING AND DUCTING SHEET ALUMINUM $850 NEW, ALL ALUMINUM, 16 GAL, GAS TANK $120 COOLANT HOSE TO RUN FROM RADIATOR TO MOTOR However, at the Porchev site it says his version (RSH) of the radiator assembly doesn't require any changes to the gas tank, so I assume cuts would be made in the fender wells to let the air out. His is approx $900 (radiator, fans, and hoses).  | 
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			I used all the Renegade parts  for the conversion, and their stuff all works well and is very straight forward.  I would not suggest cutting fender wells, the 911 is somewhat "loose" in the front end, requiring a tie bar for any real motoring.  The fuel tank is one of the more difficult tasks of the job, this requires a fabrication shop along with good welding talents. I would strongly suggest not to re-invent the wheel. Renegades system is a prover and reliable system as long as you do what they suggest, especially using the cooling system and you wouln't have to work on the car after every drive.  Here's another vieew of the tank in the car... Jack 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	
	 
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		![]() I totally agree on keeping the chassis intact. Can anyone refer me to a fellow who has done the gas tank modification? I would rather ship the tank to him. What does this cost? Also would still like to see photos on how the hoses are routed against the chassis, especially the larger 1 1/4" hose. Len  
		Last edited by BoxsterGT; 02-10-2009 at 12:39 PM..  | 
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			Here is another cooling alternative: 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	
	http://www.google.com/patents?vid=USPAT6505696 [Radiator system for use on automobiles having rear engines]  | 
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		![]() Anyone know Daryl Care of Sarasota, FL? He has a gorgeous Flat Nose 911 w the Renegade conversion package. They show him as a customer. His installation follows their design to the letter, and it sure came out nice. Our customer wants us to go with this same system, but I want to know more about the coolant hose routing through & around the front suspension & steering. I am concerned about cutting holes through the Alum crossmember for the steering rack. Its a safety issue primarily. I also wonder about the holes thru the pan to connect the radiator on each side. Please email me with photos or any of this info. I am trying to do my "due diligence" and not be surprised on my estimate amount. Thanks in advance. Len@autosportengineering.com  
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		![]() I got this photo from Renegade showing the hose routed below the steering rack on a early 911 with the steel crossmember......... ![]() It looks like they ran the coolant hoses straight back under the center tunnel. They are not concerned about crushing them as they are rubber. I would prefer to run them along the rockers. Will this hose flex enough to do that? Len  
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				coolant
			 
			
			yes the coolant hose can be run down the rockers. i do not think that i would run them under the middle of the car.
		 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
			
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			The hoses are easy to run, the 1" runs down the left side along the rocker "lip" and up the the filler neck, and the 1 1/4 runs up the right side from the pump. 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	
	The coolant running thru the hoses provides a great amount of cooling area so this is the reason that you DO NOT want to bury them inside to rockers. I ran both of the line under and around the front suspension rails with no problem what so ever. Using the correct hose is as important are to how you run the hose. Green or Yellow are the proper hose to use, easy to form the the underside of the car but very tough. If you send me you e~mail address ,I'll send a CD of the installion... Hope this helps....Jack  | 
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			Jack don't forget your sunglasses. There under the front hood!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
		 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	
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		 Quote: 
	
 That's actually a 914        It has recesses in the middle of the chassis to route the hoses in. The crossmember is the same as a 911 of course. The lines in a 911 are typically routed along the rockers. The round early crossmember works with any year and is a little easier to go over. While you can still use the later aluminum crossmember with no modifications, it's kind of neat to go through it. You can weld in aluminum pipe to match your coolant hoses to form stubs to clamp the hose to; or go large enough to pass through entirely on the way up to the front. Oh, and with regard to cutting up front, going with the shorter tank makes for a much cleaner installation. The Renegade tank is extremely nice, but as Jack posted, it's certainly possible to modify the stock tank. Of course the front wall is opened up to let the air in, but the shorter tank provides plenty of room for the air to exit via the stock opening. I've seen a few 911's with the sides cut to exhaust the air and it's a little scary looking. The 914 on the other hand does just fine with the sides being opened up because the design is different. 
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			1970 914-6 Last edited by LvSteveH; 02-18-2009 at 01:51 PM..  | 
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			Boy am I glad that I found this thread. I have been considering doing this for some time now. Thanks to those of you who are offering guidance...
		 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	
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			Just ask Scott at Renegade for help. He answered all my questions, even helped me on a car I bought already converted.
		 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
			
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			How happy are you guys that have done the conversion with performance?  i ordered my install kit and cooling system from renegade last week, Im running a 327 with about 375 hp.  its a 78 sc with a 993 front/turbo rear.
		 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	
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			Was going to wait to my build was completed but this seems like a great thread to join. I am also doing an LS1 conversion and do not like the idea of the front mount radiator and do not care for the look of the huge radiator mounted to the rear wing so I decided to go with my own idea and use the stock wing with a custom made rear mount radiator. 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	
	I will post more pictures of my build later for those interested. This is just a sneak peak ![]() ![]() ![]()  
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			I always wondered why no one tried that. Well, you're in Florida, we're going to find out f it works....
		 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
			
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			 Monkey Wrench 
			
			
		
			
				
			
			
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			I think the whole idea of the front mounted oil cooler was to help distribute some of the weight (if it really weighs that much) and you can't fit that cooler under a standard lid.   
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	
	 
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			Is anyone running AC on there V8 swap?  I would like to see more ideas on how to handle the HVAC controls.  Thanks
		 
		
	
		
	
			
			
				
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